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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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 Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 10:04 am Post subject: Brake Caliper issue. |
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I've just replaced the bobbins in the front discs, have done this once before with the wheel on the bike, just for your info, I had the wheel off due to a new tyre, (Dunlop 205) I placed the wheel on a cabinet that was about chest high, I used an extention off a socket to put the cir clips on and it was a snap, (pardon the pun) my problem then was, I put new brake pads in, the left went O.K. but the right I had to pry the caliper pistons in as the new pads wouldn't fit, as I pushed one plunger in, the other cam out and there was some brake fluid that was quite visible, I managed to put the plunger back in O.K.
Can the plungers come all the way out without the caliper being split open?? Have I just lost a bit of fluid and need to re-bleed the whole system, or how do I know I havn't damaged the piston seal????
It is too late to continue in the garage, and it is also 3 degrees.
If I clean all the brake fluid with brake clean, if there were to be leaks, would it only show under pressure, If so am I better off putting the old pads in and trying it, incase they do leak????
See what happens when you don't follow threds properley, Tim (Midland Section) Item number 11 for the job was Beer, I didn't have any, so that's where I must have gone wrong (LOL)
Lou
95LT |
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CheapJapCopy
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 17 Dec 2007
Posts: 137
Location: Berlin, Germany
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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When I changed my front brake pads I had exactly the same "Oh shit" moment, with fluid pouring out from an almost popped out piston, after ramming the other back. I simply undid the bleed nipple, put a pipe on it and pushed them both back in fully, making sure the reservoir was topped up. Refitted the calliper, bled the system (Might as well) and all was/is well, that was 2500 miles ago.
Obviously YMMV, but don't sweat it, it should be fine.
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1992 K1100RS - Red and gold. |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 7:16 pm Post subject: Brake Calliper Issue. |
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Delemer No2: I took the cap off the master cylinder so it could take some of the pressure off when I pull the plungers back, I used a screwdrive and shattered the the round part opposite the piston plunger, it appears to be made from plastic, could somone confirm this? and also a part number would help!!!!!
BTW is this part replaceable without splitting the caliper????
Lou
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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| Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 7:55 pm Post subject: |
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Lou, I'm having a hard time figuring out what part you are talking about.
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 9:08 pm Post subject: |
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| Mystic Red wrote: | | Lou, I'm having a hard time figuring out what part you are talking about. |
If you were to pull out your brake pads, out of the caliper, where your pads sit, on one side is your piston/plunger, the oposite side doesn't move, yet has round bit's about the same size as the piston/plungers, that the part I put a screwdriver through????
Lou
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RobWheatley
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK
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| Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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That sounds like another piston, AFAIK the calipers have either 2 pistions (K75 & K100) or 4 pistons (K1100), if you have shattered one of them you will need to get a repair kit with pistions.
When i looked at my front calipers 2 of the 4 pistions were stuck, if i used the brake it pushed the disk over to the stuck side then worked, much better once i had worked the pistons loose.
Rob
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1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet  Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten. |
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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| Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | If you were to pull out your brake pads, out of the caliper, where your pads sit, on one side is your piston/plunger, the oposite side doesn't move, yet has round bit's about the same size as the piston/plungers, that the part I put a screwdriver through????
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Yea, there's nothing plastic down in there. It's rebuild time.
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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CheapJapCopy
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 17 Dec 2007
Posts: 137
Location: Berlin, Germany
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:25 am Post subject: |
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When you want to push pistons in, undo the bleed nipple! If they aren't siezed, you should be able to push them in with your bare hands. Taking the cover off the master cylinder will have no effect, as you discovered. 
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1992 K1100RS - Red and gold. |
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Adrian
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 17 Aug 2007
Posts: 98
Location: Weston super Mare, Somerset, UK
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 3:55 pm Post subject: |
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Wow - I'd really never thought of that in 30 years of riding and wrenching. I'd always undone the master cylinder cover, loosening the bleed nipple makes much more sense 
Thank you
Orinoco/Adrian
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Adrian in Somerset, UK
K1100LT SE
145,000 miles and counting
https://sites.google.com/site/worlestone/ |
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CheapJapCopy
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 17 Dec 2007
Posts: 137
Location: Berlin, Germany
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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Ach.. Sarcasm?
Sorry.. I know it was after the event, but the guy did say he'd taken the cover off the master cylinder. 20/20 hindsight and all that I suppose.
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1992 K1100RS - Red and gold. |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 7:32 am Post subject: |
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| beemeerr11 wrote: | | Mystic Red wrote: | | Lou, I'm having a hard time figuring out what part you are talking about. |
If you were to pull out your brake pads, out of the caliper, where your pads sit, on one side is your piston/plunger, the oposite side doesn't move, yet has round bit's about the same size as the piston/plungers, that the part I put a screwdriver through????
Lou
95LT |
O.K. the bit I put the screwdriver through, was the other plunger, Rob is correct, there are 4, 2 of which were seized, so I've put new rubber O rings in and cleaned out the calipers, fair bit of moisture in them, my issue now is I've nearly put a litre, 600ml or so through the master cylinder to bleed the brakes and I can't seem to get good feel in the front lever, and the brakes seem to stay on momentaraly and slowly release.
I have to my best ability got all the air bubbles out using a non return hose sitting in brake fluid to avoid any sucking back in.
Because I had the actual calipers off and brake hose clamps on, should I now be looking further into bleeding the ABS unit aswell??? If so how difficult is it?? Or DON'T go there! 
Cheers
Lou
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 7:32 pm Post subject: |
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Piece of cake. If you're doing the front, it's the rear nipple. Can you swing by a parts store and get a Mighty Vac. Next best thing to power bleeding and it does sound like you have air in the system.
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 9:48 pm Post subject: |
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| Mystic Red wrote: | | Piece of cake. If you're doing the front, it's the rear nipple. Can you swing by a parts store and get a Mighty Vac. Next best thing to power bleeding and it does sound like you have air in the system. |
Hey Scott, do I go about it the same way e.g. keep filling the front master cyclinder and bleed the ABS unit as if I was doing it at the front caliper?
In the past i've only ever bled the front and rear calipers, I've never touched the ABS unit, should that be part of the annual fluid change???? If so I havn't done it in nearly 8 years 
Cheers
Lou
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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Lou, a lot of guys just bleed from the caliper and that works great but if you have some air in there I would start from the ABS modulator. Yea, it's the same procedure as the caliper bleed. And you might need to do it multiple times to get all the air out.
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Mystic Red wrote: | | Lou, a lot of guys just bleed from the caliper and that works great but if you have some air in there I would start from the ABS modulator. Yea, it's the same procedure as the caliper bleed. And you might need to do it multiple times to get all the air out. |
I've had a look through the Tech forum here and ibmwr.org and can't find any procedures for bleeding the ABS unit, can sombody give mne some advise or help here?????
Cheers
Lou
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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| Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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Lou, lift your seat, the ABS unit is right under it. There are 2 bleed nipples on top of it. The front one is for the rear brake and the back is for the front. Don't ask me why.  Bleed them just like you do the caliper. It's the same principle, don't allow any air back in. A Mighty Vac is helpful but not required as are speedbleeders. They just simplify the job.
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Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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beemeerr11
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 168
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| Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Mystic Red wrote: | | Lou, lift your seat, the ABS unit is right under it. There are 2 bleed nipples on top of it. The front one is for the rear brake and the back is for the front. Don't ask me why. Bleed them just like you do the caliper. It's the same principle, don't allow any air back in. A Mighty Vac is helpful but not required as are speedbleeders. They just simplify the job. |
Scott, did that procedure and still no good on the front brake side of things, However I have managed to get hold of a VAC, once the Vac is going, do you just keep the front brake lever all the in to the handalbar, or do you still pump??
Lou |
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