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Notchy steering

 
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Blu by u
Brick Rider


Joined: 05 May 2008
Posts: 30
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 8:57 pm    Post subject: Notchy steering Reply with quote

Hello K-bike gurus!

I've got a 94 K1100LT with notchy front forks. By that I mean at slow speed (10mph and under) it feels like I'm riding on a rail or a flat tire. The steering wants to go straight only and it feels weird to try to balance at that speed.

At any speed over 10mph the steering is good but perhaps not as good as it could be. It's hard to tell as this problem built up slowly and gradually.

I figure it's the steering head bearings and I had it tightened 2000 miles ago but it's getting worse.

Do I need to pull off the steering post and replace the bearings or what....?

Any suggestions?

Cheers
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front tire may also be a culprit.
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DaveVoorhis
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 223
Location: Derbyshire, UK

PostPosted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put the bike up on the center stand and turn the bars from side to side. If you feel a perceptible notch in the middle, the steering head bearings are worn and need to be replaced. No amount of tightening will fix this, and may well make it worse.
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Rider
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Apr 2003
Posts: 222
Location: La Grande, OR

PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 10:01 am    Post subject: Worn Headset Bearings Reply with quote

Sounds like worn bearings. The bearings will actually develop little dimples in the race of the bottom bearing in the straight ahead position caused by not being properly adjusted. Tightening the bearings after the damage is done makes the problem worse. The condition makes it impossible to ride hands off the bars.

Ed
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Sonu
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jan 2004
Posts: 400
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does sound like a steering head bearing to me too.

Given the age of the bike this would be a wonderful time to replace the handlebar bushings.

I had dealer do this years ago for 4.5 hrs of labor (never again!). I'm happy to see that you are thinking about taking this on yourself

Here are some part #'s for you
31421234509 dust seal 2 pieces
32712309419 suspension 2 pieces
31421468749 steering head bearings 2 pieces
46631452400 grommet

Sanjiv
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's my take on what you are undertaking.

To diagnose, put a jack under the engine, lift front wheel off the deck, then move the steering slowly about the centre point, you should feel notchiness, if faulty.

There's no rocket science, but before starting, you should be aware of the following.
a) You will have to drill the security lock bolt heads off.
b) You will need a Dremel or similar & a FO chisel to cut the bottom race off.
c) A special tool is required to remove the bearing outers without distorting the headstock.
d) The best way to fit the new bearing to the "triple tree" is to freeze same overnight & warm the bearing to 200C, you only get one chance to get it seated, be quick & accurate.
e) All the help you need is on this forum.

HTH,
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Shoganai
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Joined: 27 Apr 2005
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Location: Culpeper,VA

PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 2:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveVoorhis wrote:
Put the bike up on the center stand and turn the bars from side to side. If you feel a perceptible notch in the middle, the steering head bearings are worn and need to be replaced. No amount of tightening will fix this, and may well make it worse.


I 100% agree!

Look over in my Shop Whore Thread where I have some pics of me doing the job. It's not too hard really.

http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4078&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Be sure you do not over tighten the big nut on top, it will increase the bearing wear rate.
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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 907
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
There's no rocket science, but before starting, you should be aware of the following.
a) You will have to drill the security lock bolt heads off.
HTH,


Tim,
Maybe I'm missing something but why would you have to drill bolt heads off? I've replaced my steering head bearings twice in 143K miles and never found a security bolt that needs to come off. Rolling Eyes

This is a good adjustment procedure.

http://largiader.com/bearings/

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
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'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
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Blu by u
Brick Rider


Joined: 05 May 2008
Posts: 30
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 5:59 pm    Post subject: Thanks Reply with quote

Thanks everyone for your input. I'm going to do some work on the bike this sunny weekend and see how it goes.
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mike toon
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 16 May 2008
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Location: Beautiful Downtown Burbank CA

PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 1:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWI
The steering bearings on a friends bike were rusted and worn. I couldn't figure out why.

He had been using Liquid Wrench, thinking he was lubing them. He was actually diluting the factory grease. When he rinsed his bike with the hose after washing, water entered and rusted the bearings.
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Sun Jul 06, 2008 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bmwmick wrote:
Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
There's no rocket science, but before starting, you should be aware of the following.
a) You will have to drill the security lock bolt heads off.
HTH,


Tim,
Maybe I'm missing something but why would you have to drill bolt heads off? I've replaced my steering head bearings twice in 143K miles and never found a security bolt that needs to come off. Rolling Eyes

This is a good adjustment procedure.
http://largiader.com/bearings/

Mick


Don't know if the stateside bikes are different, all my K11's have / had security bolts holding the lock. IIRC the lock body fouls the headstock when pulling the top yoke off.
Perhaps I've been missing something.
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Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485
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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 907
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
bmwmick wrote:
Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
There's no rocket science, but before starting, you should be aware of the following.
a) You will have to drill the security lock bolt heads off.
HTH,


Tim,
Maybe I'm missing something but why would you have to drill bolt heads off? I've replaced my steering head bearings twice in 143K miles and never found a security bolt that needs to come off. Rolling Eyes

This is a good adjustment procedure.
http://largiader.com/bearings/

Mick



Don't know if the stateside bikes are different, all my K11's have / had security bolts holding the lock. IIRC the lock body fouls the headstock when pulling the top yoke off.
Perhaps I've been missing something.


Tim,
I just move the top clamp and handlebars up out of the way. Never had to bother the ignition switch.

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ
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