K11 Owners Group

kltk1 · Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 10:45 pm Post subject: Rear brake pad replace

Sorry if this has been covered, I searched but couldn't find an answer. Also, please excuse what may seem like an ignorant question, this is my first attempt at changing the rear brake pads myself on my 1996 K1100LT.

Are you guys removing the rear caliper to replace the brake pads? I am not as it wasn't indicated to remove the caliper in the BMW service manual. I removed the dust cover, pushed the pins out, removed the old pads but I'm not sure how to get the pistons pushed back far enough for the new pads. I know BMW has a spreader tool, is that what everyone's using? If so, I'll go get one I just wasnt' sure if there were other options out there.

Thanks in advance for any help...
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Thomas Adamo

Off the grid · Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 10:53 pm Post subject:

You don't need to remove the caliper, but you do need to remove the rear shock, or at least the bottom bolt and fold the shock upward.
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Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 11:09 pm Post subject:

You may not have to remove the caliper, but if you do, with the old pads still in it, you could use the old pads as a "buffer" to spread the caliper with something, before putting in the new pads.

I have use some tapered wood shims to spread the pads. Have also used them to keep front pads spread when removing the front wheel.
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Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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Jim · Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 11:17 pm Post subject: rr brake pads

Thomas - I don't own any special BMW tools - I'm sure you can change the rear pads without a "spreader". Use some shims - like Scott said.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

kltk1 · Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 11:17 pm Post subject:

Yeah, that's what I did with the fronts, just left the old pads in and spread them with something tapered. Funny thing is I was able to push the rear pistons back quite a bit before I removed the pads but I need about another mm or 2 to get the pads in there... Thanks for your responses guys.. Anyone else?
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Thomas Adamo

hirschhs · Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:05 am Post subject:

Just did mine for the first time and although I have the wider rear wheel, I didn't have to remove the shock or even undo the lower bolt. The caliper slid out, upwards and forwards - just getting the angle right takes a little bit of fiddling but it will come through. The experts will probably not like this but I use a very large, flat bladed plumber's wrench to open the cylinders with a very thin piece of wood to protect the cylinders.
Getting the caliper back in was less problematic than removal!
hth
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2001 ST1100A

1994 Yamaha 600 Diversion 'Hers'
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yhog · Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:50 am Post subject: recommend

You do not need remove caliper same as other guys said. But I recommend you'd better clean whole caliper included piston in every 10000 miles Laughing

Break pads dust and mud jam in caliper and harm break function more than what you thought Cool

I remove whole caliper assy every 10000 miles and clean up them by non-chemical oil solvent and replace caliper piston O-ring.

joeangi · Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 10:07 am Post subject:

I found it easy to just remove the caliper, then,I actually used a pair of "channel locks" on the old pads...with something to protect the faces of the caliper. Very easy....a word of warning, by pushing in the pads, you are raising the level of brake fluid. Be careful not to overflow your reservoir....

Joe

Phil Marvin · Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:55 pm Post subject:

Nothing to add except I use a big screwdriver to lever the pistons back, using the old pasd as shims so I don't damaqge the pistons. I usually almost empty the rear brake reservoir so I don't overflow it while pressing the pistons back. After removing the old pads and putting new ones in, I then refill the reservoir with fresh fluid, then depress the brake pedal (only about halfway) a number of times until the pistons are pushed back into operating range, then recheck and top up, if necessary, the reservoir.
Ride Safe,
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Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:43 pm Post subject:

I put a tyre lever between the tops of the old pads & twist, to push the pistons back. If the pads are worn enough, there is space to remove the caliper complete if you wish. As OTG says, swing the shock upwards. This gives space to remove the retaining pins with the caliper still fitted.
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