K11 Owners Group

[RobWheatley]

Hi all, first post here so please be gentle.
Had my RS for nearly 2 weeks now, and i am very pleased with her, so much more stable than my XJ600.
Have few things need doing (got her cheap) which i am working through.
So far I have
Replaced the fuel sender (dropped to E after 30 miles)
Replaced the Bobbins (5mm play on the disks) none now.
Wired a fan switch.
Stripped and repaired the ABS switch & heated grip switch (both full of potting compound)
Replaced the connector for the temp guage under the tank.
Freed up the ignition switch.
Replaced the seat lock.

I have yet to replace the headlight lens but waiting for it to arrive (on back order)

Reason i am posting here is the dredded ABS, When i bought her the last owner told me he had bypassed the front ABS modulator because he didnt like the way it worked, said it held the brakes on too long for him. When i turned on the ignition the ABS light were alternate flashing (fault)

I found the details for resetting the ECU which i have done, now get both ABS lights flashing together, go out soon as i pull away, i have tried the rear system out (40MPH on a quiet road and stood on the rear brake, that works, the front is still not connected as have been told i need to have a pressure bleeder for it (can borrow one for the weekend)

On the way to work after resetting the ECU all was fine until i got over about 95 mph then the ABS light alternate flash again, switch ignition on for the journey home and the lights go out, over 95 flash till i restart, if i keep it below 90 it is fine all the way (40 miles each way).
Could that be because the front modulator isnt connected or is it another fault, was going to try the LED trick but if i switch the ignition off there is no fault showing.
Did look at the pipes for the front modulator and they are still fitted, just disconnected (and sealed) at the master cylinder and front splitter so wont have to worry about corrosion in the pipes.
Oh and its ABSII

Thanks for any help in advance.
Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

[Flying Duck]

I'd guess it's a bad ABS sensor or the sensor gap. Try checking the gaps. You need shims for the front one, the rear can be adjusted by slight movements of the rear caliper.

IF that doesn't work, get a 12V LED and read the codes.

I had a K100RS4V (ABSI) that had had the front similarly disconnected also. Never had problems up to 125mph. (Professional rider on a closed track of course. )
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[BMGraeme]

Hi Rob, welcome to the site.

I don't understand how the front modulator is disconnected on an ABSII bike since there is only one modulator that does both the front and the rear brakes. If the front brake is sealed at the M/C the whole front brake won't work at all.

Or maybe I'm being dense as it's been a long day...

As with FD check the sensor operation and the gaps - if you need any specs let me know. In my experience most of my ABS flashing light syndrome all went away with a new AGM battery - worth checking the battery connections and charge to see if something drops out when you rev the engine.
_________________
1980 CB900FA
1994 K1100RS
2008 R1200GSA

[Flying Duck]

[RobWheatley]

Hi
Thanks for the replies.
Great forum you all have here,
I wasnt too sure about the K11 when i was looking for another bike, things that swung it was the shaft, water cooing and the gear indicator, well please i went for it now, feels so more stable even at silly speeds.
I do 80 miles a day to work and back and enjoy every second of it plus will be doing some serious miles over the summer hols too.

Yes there is only one modulator, the front channel had been disconnected and a new pipe direct from the master to the splitter at the forks was fitted, the rear left alone, will check the sensor gaps and adjust if required, confirmed it on the way home tonight, soon as i go over 90 the ABS lights start flashing, cycle the ignition and they go off, will do the LED test for fault codes (assume i just put an LED on pin 2 to earth and read codes when ignition is turned on)

One other thing, what is the true capacity of the fuel tank, manual and clymers says 22 litres, but even after running the tank almost dry i only seem to be able to get about 16-17 litres in, and that is after about 35 miles with the warning light on and the guage on E, have had the tank off to replace the sender and there is no dents that would explain it!

Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

[Jim]

Rob - 5.2 US gallons, 19.684141 litres.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[Scott_Anderson]

Hey Drake and Jim, Just a theory here, But. If the ABS looks at both the front and rear wheel rotation for 'syncronization' while the bike is moving, could it be possible that if there were some odd sized tires on the bike could that throw the sensing off by the time he gets up to 90+ and show a fault?
I have noticed that my spedo reading is off, and progressively worse the faster I go.
I've got no reference of how the system ACTUALLY works, it was just a thought I had.
_________________
Ride safe.



1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[Flying Duck]

[max]

Having different tyre sizes (causing the ABS sensors to report different baseline wheel rotation rates) making the ABS "fault" is a common problem with the low-profile, big-wheel car modders... seen this discussion in the BMW car forums, especially when some young stud owner upgrades to 17" rims, ignores the speedo error factor, then gets a flat and uses the standard 15" spare...

If it's not that, only other thing I can think of is maybe engine related (by RPMs, not road speed) - either bad sheilding causing ignition noise into the sensor lines as the revs rise, or a voltage drop as the engine takes more power at higher RPMs? Can you ride it, stop, rev it and get the fault?

Max

[Off the grid]

[Jim]

you can reach in the tank and bend the float rod to adjust the level shown by the gauge.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[chopper_harris]

One of the mods recommended by the sages is a 'flapperectomy', removing the hard plastic neck on the tank filler to squeeze in a few extra litres.

A quick google brought up the details, but I was pleased to find that my K11 had already been done by a PO - about the only thing they did right
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C1 200 (2001)
R100 RS (1990)
NSU Quickly N (1964)
Honda 400/4 F1 (1977)
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