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paralever pivot pin lock nut unlocked

 
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dubu650
Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Jan 2007
Posts: 27
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:23 pm    Post subject: paralever pivot pin lock nut unlocked Reply with quote

I've owned my 94 k1100rs for a year now and had a complete spline lube ($700 Shocked ) done before winterizing the bike in October. On my first ride of the season I noticed that the locknut on the right side/outside of the paralever arm pivot pin had become loose. What I don't know is whether or not the pivot pin loosened as well.

According to the Clymer manual, the pivot pin should be torqued to 65 inch pounds. When I applied the correct torque, I noticed that the pin rotated an additional 90 degrees (too loose I guessed). Then I thought that it was purposely loosened to prevent bearing damage like a wheel bearing (tighten to seat and then loosen).

1) According to the manual, the torquing?? is done prior to connecting the shock. Does this matter???

2) Should I retorque the pin to 65 inch pounds and then the locknut to 77 foot pounds??

3) Should I leave the pin loose (90 degrees behind torque spec) and then just torque the locknut??

4) I noticed in a recent March thread and others that many people loctite their pins. I've also heard that only R bike's paralevers are loctited and not K bikes??? Any reason for this???

This site is a wealth of knowledge and I thank everyone for the fantastic photos and info.

Steve in Canada with still a hint of snow in the shady spots
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use blue (medium) Loctite on the pivot pins and their locknuts.

The correct torque for the right side pivot pin is 7 Nm. (5.2 ft-lb, 62 in-lb)

(Same for left side pivot pin on the swing arm. If the final drive one came loose, wouldn't hurt to pull your left peg plate and check that one too.)

For the left side (12mm Allen), the torque value is 150 Nm (111 ft-lb)

Locknut is 105 Nm. (I don't bother torquing that one though, I just hold the pivot pin in place with an Allen wrench and get the locknut good and tight with some Loctire in there.

(Those figures are form the official BMW shop manual.)

As for having the shock on - you're better off getting it properly torqued if there are no loads on it. Therefore, I'd recommend not having the bottom of the shock mounted.

Loctite on Rs but not Ks? That's a good one. Laughing I wonder how somebody came up with that one. (FYI: BMW shop manual says Loctite(2701) for Ks.)
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
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Roy S.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Mar 2008
Posts: 1349
Location: W. Sacramento, California

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would one clean off the old locktight from the threads before re-assembly, how and what with?
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a wire brush, then run the locknut up and down it a few times to make sure things are fairly clean.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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chopper_harris
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Dec 2007
Posts: 232
Location: Nr Wigan, UK

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Essential that the mating surfaces are dry and grease free.

Clean both with a rag soaked in a high volatile spirit (eg cellulose thinners). Kerosene or unleaded gas can leave a residue.

Neat Vodka is also effective, but a shame to waste it Sad
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RAL88
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Apr 2004
Posts: 736
Location: New Mexico Land of Enchantment and 365 days of riding USA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Locktite cleaner is acetone based. I am in the process of doing mine and I used acetone to clean them with. Gets rid of oil residue also.
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Rich

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and make it work better"
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dubu650
Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Jan 2007
Posts: 27
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info. I retorqued the right pin to 7Nm (62 inch lbs). Why does the Clymer manual differ with 65 inch lbs? Not much of a difference at least.

In terms of the left pin, however, Clymer says 77 foot lbs whereas BMW says 111 foot lbs???

Why the big difference?

Steve
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are not alone, when I did my clutch, I too found the locknut under the LH footrest plate loose. It had just passed it's MOT (annual safety inspection) with no faults. I nipped it up & gave the locknut some serious tightening, then forgot about it. The improvement in handling on the shakedown ride was quite noticeable.
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