K11 Owners Group

[MCRyder]

My KRS has left me on the side of the road again.

To recap. This first happened back in July. Riding along and then the engine stops running. The lights and gauges all work. But the pump doesn't run when the key is turned on. I switch out the relays, check the fuses, nothing. I leave it for a few months, order a new fuel pump and mean to install it. I ask a friend who also owns a KRS about this. He suggest I check the fuses again before installing the pump. I do and the pump turns over, the engine starts. Hoorah! I replace all the fuses and ride the KRS.

Today, six weeks and about a 1,000 miles later of faultless performance, I'm riding on the interstate when the pump dies. Can't get it retarted. Jostle and rearrange the fuses, wiggle the relay, nothing, zip, zilch. The lights and gauges come on, but the pump does't pump. I try the sidestand switch by moving the sidestand around and pushing on the switch while hitting the igntion, again nothing.

I don't think it's the pump, there's not a sign that it's gonna fail, My gut feeling is something upstream of the pump is preventing power from getting to it. Either a bad relay or the sidestand switch? I found a way to disable the switch and I might try that, and I can order all new relays. Anything else?
_________________
Mark Rooney
Tyler, TX
'93 K11RS
http://community.webshots.com/user/zgryder

[Flying Duck]

Check the wiring harness connector for the tank wires. I've not heard of it failing on a K11 but the older K bikes sometimes had issues with that connector.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[abreeze]

ihad a similar problem, even repalced the Pump......It turned out to be the fuel pump wire. replaced the fuel level sender/pump wire and WOW....it worked.

Try checking the continuity between the connector and the fuel tank leads.

[MCRyder]

Thanks for the replies!

FD, when you say the "wiring harness connector for the tank wires" I'm guessing that's the four pin connector plug on the right rear of the fuel tank?

And Abreeze, "It turned out to be the fuel pump wire. replaced the fuel level sender/pump wire...." Which wire is that one?

As for checking for continuity. I'm OK at turning a wrench, but the electrical stuff is harder. How do you check for continuity? I've got volt meter, but my grasp on it's use is not so hot.
_________________
Mark Rooney
Tyler, TX
'93 K11RS
http://community.webshots.com/user/zgryder

[Flying Duck]

Yes, that's the one. It goes to the fuel level sender.

Do you have a voltmeter or a multimeter? If it's a multipmeter, then look for a symbol with an arrow going into a line - that setting is for continuity teating. Put on that setting and then hold the probes together.

Run your tank low. Remove the gas cap. (Don't over itghten the 4 screws when putting them back in.)

The fuel pump is on the left side of the tank.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[abreeze]

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/MainDiagrams.asp?mospid=47926

Part #10

[Flying Duck]

Let me know if you need to replace your fuel level sender.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Lone Rider of Santa Fe]

I experienced the same failure a couple of years back. The problem was isolated to the 4-pin tank connector. There was voltage going to the pump but the return pin-socket connection was intermittent. Cleaning and crimping have solved the problem though I should probably replace the socket, if I can find one. Moral of the story is be sure to verify that you have a complete circuit not just the hot side. Good luck.
_________________
Paul
'96 K11RS "Victor"

[Scott_Anderson]

You might also check the kill switch on the handlebar. I remember another, I thought it was Jonny 'O', had fuel pump issues traced back to the kill switch contacts being dirty.

Ride Safe

Scott

[MCRyder]

Hey y'all, thanks for the feedback. I'm following up on what's been suggested, keep any others coming. I taking the KRS on a 4,000 mile trip in May and don't want to get stuck on the side of the road in Nowhere, Nevada

[Flying Duck]

No. What I'd do is get a set of four wire trailer connectors at the auto parts store and wire those in. The electrons won't know they're not travelling through official BMW connectors. And that's probably the easiest and most reliable four wire connector to find.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Jim]

maybe you want something like this: http://www.posi-lock.com/positite.html no more contaminated, corroded connectors. The last time I looked at their website, they had a flat, four pin trailer connector kit - I found it: http://www.posi-lock.com/shoponline.cfm
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[littlebluesanta]

Look at earth from battery to Motronic unit

[MCRyder]

With the feedback (thanks!) I've gotten about my fueling problem, I'm going to start trying to figure out the cause.

I've cleaned the contacts on the wiring harness connector, and moved around the wires as the ignition is on, still no life.

Haven't drained the tank yet to check the continuity between the power source and the pump. I did use my mulitmeter on the wiring harness connector. I separated the unit and put the probes on each pin and hole. I got no reading on any configuration. Is that normal? And what pin corresponds to the power lead on the pump?

I'm still hoping it's just a matter of replacing the fuel level sending unit. That's just a matter of bolting in a new one. I kinda dread having to take apart the kill switch module to clean the contacts. There's lotsa small, easy to lose parts in there. And then there's the worry of getting it all put back correctly.

I want my K-Beemer back on the road again!
_________________
Mark Rooney
Tyler, TX
'93 K11RS
http://community.webshots.com/user/zgryder

[Flying Duck]

The kill switch is easy. You cna do it w/o taking the switch assembly apart. Take oyur switch assembly off and you'll see a C-clip holding the kill switch stuff on - easy to clean.check. (Would hurt to have a show box or something underneath though.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[buhmeyer]

Sounds like you probably have already checked the fuse, however be aware that the heated handgrips are on the same fuse as the fuel pump.
I ran into that on mine... flipped on my handgrip heat and a few seconds later my bike just died going down the road. Turned out I had a short in the heated handgrip and it blew the fuel pump fuse.

Good Luck!

[MCRyder]

Hope I make sense here .

With the key on I used my multimeter (analog type) to check the continuity from the 4 pin connector to the fuel pump. With the orientation of bike side connector having the single pin hole at the bottom, I put the probe on the two top pin holes and tried the other probe on both leads on the fuel pump. On both leads the needle on the meter went to the left, away from the zero position showing continuity.

When I put the probe on the two pin holes at the bottom of the connector, the needle went to the right to zero after I put the other probe on the pump leads. This was the same reading on both leads on the fuel pump.

I also tried checking from the bike side connector to the fuel level sender connector. I got the same thing with that. The top holes sent the meter needle to the left, the bottom holes sent the needle right to zero.

I not sure what all that would indicate, appreciate any feedback.

At this point I'm thinking I need a new fuel level sender unit.
_________________
Mark Rooney
Tyler, TX
'93 K11RS
http://community.webshots.com/user/zgryder

[chopper_harris]

Any bets on how long it takes Mr Duck to step in with an offer to sell one
_________________
C1 200 (2001)
R100 RS (1990)
NSU Quickly N (1964)
Honda 400/4 F1 (1977)
MotoGuzzi 1000C (1978)
Suzuki TL 1000 R (1999)
Kawasaki KLV1000 (2005)
K12R Sport (2007) - Wifeys

[bmwmbt]

Mark, when checking continuity, switch ignition off. Otherwise you might get erronous readings, maybe even blow a fuse or worse, in your multimeter. You don't want power present on wires when you're applying small measuring signals.
When checking continuity, zero is good: zero resistance is a good wire. Putting the probes together will give the same reading: good connection. If you 've got two wires going to the fuel pump with good continuity, things are ok on that part. If power is present on the tank plug, bike side, you probably have a bad fuel pump. Check the background info underneath which I worked out some time ago and included for your information.

with fuel pump problems, first thing to check is the overtemp warning light.
If your overtemp indicator in the dash lights up, your kill switch and sidestand switch are ok. check this by flipping kill switch to off or extending side stand: indicator off.
this indicator is switched by the motronics which is powered by the fuel pump relay. Thus if indicator is on, both switches and relay are ok.
Next check for power (12V DC) on tank plug (bike side, not tank side) with ignition, kill switch and sidestand in running position and fuse 6 ok, power is between the green/white (positive) and brown (negative, ground) wire. (I don't know the exact position on the plug but can check later)
If power is present, problem must be in the tank. In that case you should be able to measure low resistance between brown and green/white wire on the tank. If not, open up the tank, get the fuel pump out and check continuity over the brown wire between tank plug and fuelpump. The wires are connected to the pump by lugs on a connection post and fastened with nuts. You don't have to take those off yet. Repeat on the green/white wire. both have to be low resistance (smaller than 0.3 ohms). If all ok, fuel pump might be faulty. Check by taking fuelpump far away from tank and other flammable material. Remember which wire was on which connection post. Then apply 12 V to connection posts on the pump. Connect positive on 'green/white' post, negative on 'brown'. Be carefull of gas remains still in the pump. connect to pump first, then to battery. If pump does not run: change it.
Pierre
_________________
K75RT '96
K1100LT '99(ex-police)

to accelerate is nothing
to drive is something
to ride is everything

[MCRyder]

Pierre, thanks for your advice. There's power on the tank side. My multimeter shows high resistance from the green/white lead on the tank side plug to the brown wire on the fuel pump. I'll be checking the pump with 12V power next. I'm actually hoping all I need to do is replace the pump. I've already got a new one and it's simple to install (I like simple ). The K11OG forum and it's members are great. Thanks again!
_________________
Mark Rooney
Tyler, TX
'93 K11RS
http://community.webshots.com/user/zgryder