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Front brake light switch

 
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John Clauss
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 04 Apr 2003
Posts: 732
Location: Robesonia, PA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 3:36 pm    Post subject: Front brake light switch Reply with quote

Front brake light switch, issues. Took the bike to be inspected today and the front brake light switch is not activating the brake light.

Darn. So we go to find a new switch. Seems that the previous owner crashed the bike, and replaced the right side controls with those from a K1200.

So I got the switch, but the connecters didn't match up. No problem, cut off the old and solder the green to the green and the grey to the grey should be good to go.

Except its still not working. Now I have to investigate all of the wiring back to the tail light and see if I can find the problem. Any ideas?

I know that you helped me solve the foot brake lights switch issue really easily. Thanks in advance.
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It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al
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BMGraeme
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Mar 2006
Posts: 373
Location: Marlborough, United Kingdom

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take the tank off and trace the wire back to the small connector - check the connections with a multimeter to see if you have continuity. Might just be a dirty connection at that point anyway.
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chopper_harris
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Joined: 28 Dec 2007
Posts: 232
Location: Nr Wigan, UK

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you bled the front brake recently ?

When I bought my K11LT for restoration, the PO had been bu**ering around, and the actuating arm on the front switch had been distorted.

If the m/cyl piston has moved beyond it's uaual range, this may have happened.

I managed to remove the two tiny socket head screws holding it in place (M3, IIRC), bend the actuator str8, and all was good.

Remove the plastic shield from the front of the m/cyl, and it should be apparent - you may find a trapped or corroded wire.
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John Clauss
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 04 Apr 2003
Posts: 732
Location: Robesonia, PA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I doubt that chopper's solution is the problem as it did not work with the switch off the bike and in my hand, or on the bike. So its not a matter of movement.

I jumped the connector and still no brake light, so it must be in the harness. All looks good at the tail light and it does work with the back brake. Could it be a relay issue?
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It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think that thas a realy in the circuit - but it does go thorugh the bulb monitor unit= - somehow.
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John-

You mentioned that the bike has been repaired and the R.H. controls replaced. Any possibility that there were additional unseen things modified at that or other times?

-I see that the rear brake activates the light properly, but you checked all the fuses anyway? Do the gas and temp gauges work OK? (if there were other repairs by the P.O., the rear switch could have been run to a different circuit)

-Before you soldered in the new switch, did you try just "jumping" green to grey at the harness to see if it works?

-Did you manually work the new switch with your fingers after you soldered it in, but before you attached it to the brake lever? (replacement parts can be bad)

-If you manually close the OLD switch, do you get continuity at the pigtail?

I had a front brakelight switch go bad on me but it ended up being corrosion inside the two pin plug under the gas tank. It was on the harness side where the wire actually inserts into the pin, not where the pin inserts into the female socket. Drove me nuts.

Good luck- let us know if you find it or push the bike off a cliff in frustration.

John
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John Clauss
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 04 Apr 2003
Posts: 732
Location: Robesonia, PA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
John-

You mentioned that the bike has been repaired and the R.H. controls replaced. Any possibility that there were additional unseen things modified at that or other times?

-I see that the rear brake activates the light properly, but you checked all the fuses anyway? Do the gas and temp gauges work OK? (if there were other repairs by the P.O., the rear switch could have been run to a different circuit)


All of the other fuses and circuits are working fine.

SugarHillCTD wrote:
-Before you soldered in the new switch, did you try just "jumping" green to grey at the harness to see if it works?


I tried that last night, removed the tank again and jumped the pins, nothing.

SugarHillCTD wrote:
--Did you manually work the new switch with your fingers after you soldered it in, but before you attached it to the brake lever? (replacement parts can be bad)


The new switch seemed to work fine. I didn't solder the switch in directly, I cut off the old connector from the first one and put it on the second one.

SugarHillCTD wrote:
-If you manually close the OLD switch, do you get continuity at the pigtail?


This is where I fall down. I do not have a multimeter, nor do I know beans about continuity.

SugarHillCTD wrote:
-I had a front brakelight switch go bad on me but it ended up being corrosion inside the two pin plug under the gas tank. It was on the harness side where the wire actually inserts into the pin, not where the pin inserts into the female socket. Drove me nuts.


I looked over the pins really good and sprayed them down with electrical cleaner. They did not appear to be corroded but obviously I will go look at that again.

Good luck- let us know if you find it or push the bike off a cliff in frustration.

John[/quote]
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1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4238
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The new switch might seem to work well, but does it really? An inexpensive multimeter is not difficult to use- otherwise you are just guessing about hidden open circuits.

Several members of this forum can give you a crash course in multimeter use. A small one can easily fit in with your tools for diagnosing problems while out on the road.
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, you didn't mention yet. When you turn on the ignition how does your red triangle brake like (in the instrument pod) funtion. Does it turn off with just the foot brake, or both, or does it stay on all the time?

That's my first indication when I have gotten my front brake switch wet as this dash light will turn off when I just touch the foot brake. The circuit "see's" my front brake as on, and of course the brake lights are also on.

If your front switch isn't working the dash light should be on all the time, unless something is f***ed up in the wiring.
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John Clauss
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 04 Apr 2003
Posts: 732
Location: Robesonia, PA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The dash light goes off with the foot brake only. Not the front brake.
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1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al
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Tim (Midland Section)
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Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Clauss wrote:
The dash light goes off with the foot brake only. Not the front brake.


Should need a press of each to extinguish the triangle. Does therefore, seem to be in the monitoring unit.
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mnb
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Joined: 20 Jun 2007
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Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If only the rear brake is required to extinguish the dash light, then the front brake light switch is stuck or wired "on." This would be the problem.
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John Clauss
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 04 Apr 2003
Posts: 732
Location: Robesonia, PA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I dug into the wiring harness and discovered that the "hot" side is fine, not issues there. I also know that the new switch works fine as well. So in tracing the offening "ground" side wire it ends at the "Bulb monitoring device under the tank. So I jumped the wire from a known good point, to right at the bulb monitoring device, and guess what? Still no brake light. HAs anyone ever had one of these things go bad? Any idea how much one costs?

Tanks!
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1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, they can go bad.

$71 new

$25 used
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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John Clauss
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 04 Apr 2003
Posts: 732
Location: Robesonia, PA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was indeed the Bulb Monitoring Unit. Something for you all to keep in your memory banks for the future.
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1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al
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