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Missing/stuttering
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Off the grid
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:45 pm    Post subject: Missing/stuttering Reply with quote

Missing in later gears, 4+5th.

Wondering if it has anything to do with the weather here.

It's 20-30c and my temp gauge never gets above half even when idling. I know the bike likes to be run hit and lean, so that where my train of thought was going.

Would placing black duct tape over the grill intake make the bike run a bit hotter? Kind of like cars and trucks do?

For the record, other things it could possibly be and when I changed them:

Clutch/splines 15k ago
fuel filter 15k ago
plugs 10k ago
(used) wires 10k ago
TBS, O2 sensor, coolant checked and changed 3k ago.


Any advice appreciated, and please don't say its something expensive. Shocked
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Das Boot
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 12:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grid,

I d try the cheapest things first. 10k to me is the life of plugs for a bike, the car I double that but, I would start there. I know a lot of people use different brands of plugs, I never had any luck with anything in a BMW besides BOSCH or BERU spark plugs. I would torque the spark plugs to 20ft lbs and make certain the caps are tight.
Then try the old trick of running the machine in a dark garage, look for any arcing or sparking down at the wires. Poor mans method but it works for this case I think.
The other thing is gas, if you havent been riding much it could be old gas, the stuff in the winter in the North East area is that oxygenated nonsense that runs like do-do anyway. Look into the tank and make sure there isnt any water it. Fuel filters can get clogged even at 10k miles.

Best of Luck,
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Off the grid
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dom,

Thanks a ton, was leaning towards electrical myself.

As far as fuel, I ride daily unless it is raining or snowing.

*Ninja edit

If it was a fuel filter, wouldn't it be missing in all gears and not the top end?
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Das Boot
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grid,

I think its plugs or wires. Although the fuel filter is always a good cheap fix too. My thinking for the fuel filter is that I had an old boxer with the classic crap red coated lining in the tank. The lining would flake off, and clog the equally crappy Bing Carbs. I added inline fuel filters along with modified fuel filters on the inside stems of the petcocks. Anyway, as the filters would get clogged up it always showed signs in top gear top RPM first. I think were the only two guys up this late on Friday night reading K11 stuff, I feel bad for these other poor saps Laughing
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Phil Marvin
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Dave,
Your discussion brings back memories of my '96 K1100LT, the one which I sold at 122k miles and is still running well at something past 135k. It would miss and stutter, mostly in 5th but sometimes in 4th, especially when I was on the far side of 80mph with wide open throttle like, for instance, passing a car. I changed plugs and fuel filter, checked valve clearances, changed the air filter, etc. Nothing worked. I finally took it into the shop. The diagnosis was a bad throttle positioning sensor. First, the mechanic tried resetting mine. That didn't work. They had a new one in stock, so he put it in and set it. That was the last of the stumbling. It ran great. I don't know if that's your bike's problem, but it's something to think about. Good Luck!
Ride Safe,
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Off the grid
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

<cough>

Anyway......noob question alert....what and where is the throttle positioning sensor?
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Last edited by Off the grid on Sat Dec 08, 2007 5:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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WVMSFKRS
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's the same thing my 96 is doing. It totally quit, the shop cleaned the throttle positioning sensor. Now it runs but starts missing, just a little. Any way to check this sensor at home?

Mike
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Phil Marvin
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, All,
The K11 throttle positioning sensor is a small black box on top of and at the rear, left side of the engine. It can (maybe) be reset. Mick McKinnon has the specs and can tell you what you need to do. You need a meter which will read millivolts, I think.
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andyc
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The setting procedure for the TPS is in the very first sticky in the tech section. Keep in mind that the TPS is VERY sensitive, the voltage will change some as the screws are tightened down. A small change in voltage will make a large change in how the engine runs.

Andy
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bmwmick
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil Marvin wrote:
Hi, All,
The K11 throttle positioning sensor is a small black box on top of and at the rear, left side of the engine. It can (maybe) be reset. Mick McKinnon has the specs and can tell you what you need to do. You need a meter which will read millivolts, I think.
Ride Safe,


Hi Phil,
I think he may have more than one problem. The fact that it never warms up seems to indicate that his thermostat has tilted in the housing (pretty common on an old K1100). Mine failed at about 120K miles. The neoprene ring that surrounds the thermostat can expand and not hold the thermostat flush in the housing. I would first flush the coolant and inspect the thermostat.
When mine failed it would take a LONG time to reach normal operating temp because the coolant was ALWAYS flowing around the t-stat rather than through it.
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Off the grid
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mick thanks for the suggestions but I can pretty much rule out the thermostat as I just got it replaced and a full coolant flush.

Plus I put some black duct tape over 3/4 of the intake and shes running a bit warmer now. My concern was that the super cool air and the bike running cool might be causing the stuttering somehow.
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bmwmick
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Off the grid wrote:
Mick thanks for the suggestions but I can pretty much rule out the thermostat as I just got it replaced and a full coolant flush.

Plus I put some black duct tape over 3/4 of the intake and shes running a bit warmer now. My concern was that the super cool air and the bike running cool might be causing the stuttering somehow.


Does it get up to normal temp in about 5 minutes of riding? If not, I'd still suspect the t-stat being crooked in the housing.
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Off the grid
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah 5 mins, tops.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@Dom

10k seems awfully fast for plugs....they always were to me a "install and forget" item...and I do tuneups on my cars every 30-40k or so.

Picked up a set of NGKs....16$ bucks for 4. Sure beats 40$ for the BMW set.

Weather is just the suck here, so will have to wait and see.

Next stop....fuel filter.

Thanks to those who replied.


-D
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Das Boot
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grid,

10k is a little excessive, but I still like to turn wrenches on my bikes for whatever dumb reason and there isnt much to tinker with. Anyway, I would still go for the Bosch plugs and a Mahle filter which is the same as the OEM item. For the added reason if the bike isnt running right, I tend to go back to the stock configuration, a part number could have always been cross referenced in error or updated. Besides aren't you rolling in all that money since you stopped smoking :>) BTW I still laugh by ass off everytime I see your advantar.

Best of Luck,
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having no garage any "tinkering" in the winter is painful, to say the least.

But to recap I found out the problem. The plugs were loose in the block.

I swapped em out for a set of NGKs for the time being, but will go back to the Bosch asap....I like the dual-firing of the Bosch.

I also found this handy guide for spitfire plugs in my searches:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/BMW-motorcycles/BMW-Splitfire-sparkplugs.htm

Anyone have any experience with them?

Quote:
CCD Description Year Gap SplitFire Plug Triple Platinum Plug
1200 K1200GT 2006-03 .025 SF416D TP416D
1200 K1200LT 2005-99 .025 SF416D TP416D
1200 K1200RS 2005-97 .025 SF416D TP416D
1200 Montauk 2005-04 .025 SF392C TP392C
1200 R1200C 2005-98 .025 SF392C TP392C
1200 R1200CL 2005-03 .025 SF392C TP392C
1170 R1200GS 2006-05 0.025 SF416C N/A
1170 R1200ST 2006 0.025 SF416C N/A
1170 R1200RT 2006 0.025 SF416C N/A
1157 HP2 2006 0.025 SF416C N/A
1157 K1200S 2006-05 0.025 SF416C N/A
1157 K1200R 2006-05 0.025 SF416C N/A
1130 Edition 80 2004 .025 SF392C TP392C
1130 R1150GS, Adventure 2005-00 .025 SF392C TP392C
1130 R1150R (Intake) 2005-04 .025 SF392C TP392C
1130 R1150R (Exhaust) 2005-04 .035 SF416D TP416D
1130 R1150R 2003-01 .025 SF392C TP392C
1130 R1150R Rockster (Intake) 2005 .025 SF392C TP392C
1130 R1150R Rockster (Exhaust) 2005 .035 SF416D TP416D
1130 R1150RS 2005-03 .025 SF392C TP392C
1130 R1150RT 2005-02 .025 SF392C TP392C
1093 K1100LT, A 1997-93 0.024 SF416C N/A
1093 K1100RS, LT 1997-93 0.024 SF416C N/A
1085 R1100GS, GSA 1999-94 .032 SF392C TP392C
1085 R1100R, RA, S 2005-95 .032 SF392C TP392C
1085 Boxer Cup Replika 2005-03 .025 SF392C TP392C
1085 R1100RT 2005 .032 SF392C TP392C
1085 R1100RT 2002-96 .032 SF392C TP392C
1085 R1100RS, RSA, RSL 2002-94 .032 SF392C TP392C
1000 K1 (16 Valve) 1992-91 .025 SF416B N/A
1000 K100, RS, RT, LT (8 Valve) 1994-83 .025 SF416D TP416D
1000 K100LT 1992-87 .025 SF416B N/A
1000 K100LTA, RSA 1995-94 .025 SF416D TP416D
1000 R100, GS, PD 1995-88 .025 SF426C TP6C
1000 R100, R, RS, RT 1995-88 .025 SF426C TP6C
1000 RT, RS 1991-84 .025 SF416B N/A
850 R850 Custom, GS, RT 1999 .032 SF392C TP392C
850 R850R, A 1997-96 .032 SF392C TP392C
800 R80, R80RT, R80ST 1987-83 0.024 SF426C TP6C
800 R80/7 1980-78 0.024 SF426C TP6C
800 R80GS 1990-81 0.024 SF426C TP6C
800 R80ST 1984-83 0.024 SF426C TP6C
750 K75, C, S, SA, RTA, T 1995-86 .025 SF416D TP416D
750 K75/3, K75/3A 1995 .025 SF416B N/A
652 F650CS 2005-03 0.032 SF416C N/A
652 F650S, F650GS, Dakar 2006-97 0.032 SF416C N/A
652 F650ST 1997 0.032 SF416C N/A
650 R65, R65LS 1987-86 .025 SF426C TP6C
650 R65 1981-80 .025 SF426C TP6C
600 R60 1/2" Reach 0.02 SF409B N/A
600 R69 1/2" Reach 0.02 SF409B N/A
500 R50 1/2" Reach 1973-70 0.02 SF409B N/A
500 R51 1/2" Reach 0.02 SF409B N/A
250 R26, R27 1/2" Reach 0.02 SF409B N/A

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RAL88
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everything that I have read about the split fire, bosch duals, quads and any plug that has more than one grounding point is that they still only produce one spark. The electricity will flow to the path of least resistance at the moment of the spark and that is only one path. The more grounding contacts that you have only increases the life of the plug because you are spreading the damage done by the spark to more than one point. If this is incorrect please educate me.

Rich
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Jimmyd
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil Marvin wrote:
Hi, Dave,
Your discussion brings back memories of my '96 K1100LT, the one which I sold at 122k miles and is still running well at something past 135k. It would miss and stutter, mostly in 5th but sometimes in 4th, especially when I was on the far side of 80mph with wide open throttle like, for instance, passing a car. I changed plugs and fuel filter, checked valve clearances, changed the air filter, etc. Nothing worked. I finally took it into the shop. The diagnosis was a bad throttle positioning sensor. First, the mechanic tried resetting mine. That didn't work. They had a new one in stock, so he put it in and set it. That was the last of the stumbling. It ran great. I don't know if that's your bike's problem, but it's something to think about. Good Luck!
Ride Safe,

OK I have the same problem with my 1994 K 1100rs and just can't seem to figure out what the deal is. A couple of weeks ago I was talked out replacing the TPS but I think that's the problem.
I have replaced the fuel filter and lines so I know they are not the issue.
Two issues I hope some can help me with.

1. I tried the TPS adjustment , but pin number two on the diagnostic connector has a Brown/Blue wire. That's not what is supposed to be there?? From all the diagnostic connector references I have seen on this site, pin #2 should have a brown/white wire.

2. I took the TPS off to inspect. I tried measuing the voltage between pins 1/4 on the TPS connecter. There is a constant 12 volts there with the bike on without starting even when I actuate the throttle. Is that correct?
According to the Motronic diagnostics posted on this site I should be measuring something below 1 volt.
How can I trust the test if the wiring colors don't match. How can the voltage change at the TPS connector? I would think the voltage would change based on the position of the TPS.... but that can only change with the connector connected to the TPS. 12 volts kinda of makes sense seeing as the resistance of the TPS would change based on the position of the TPS, but where/how do you then measure the voltage?
I have to add that it sometimes takes about 5 mintues or a few miles for this issue to start but it never gets any better once it starts.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't adjusted/checked my tps for a while yet, but I don't seem to remember it having anything to do with the 3-pin diagnostic connector under the seat.

Yes you have to measure the tps voltage with the 4-pin plug connected to the tps. slide the rubber boot off of the connector and use some small aligator clips to reach in from the back side of the plug. It is kind of a PIA to do this, but it can be done.

Yes, the diagostic plug(3-pin that is under the seat on the left side) has all base brown wires with diff color stripes.
Brown/Blue stripe-- goes to the abs controller.
Brown/Black stripe--goes 2 places, 1 to the hi temp lamp on inst cluster, 2 to the motronic unit.
Brown/Green stripe--goes to the motronic unit.

The 4-pin TPS connector should have the following colors:
White/Grey stripe
Green/Yellow stripe
White/Red stripe
Brown/Grey stripe
All of these wires go to the motronic control unit.

One of the bad things with most wiring diagrams, they may give you the correct colors but they most often don't say which pin # they are landed in.
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Jimmyd
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 12:40 pm    Post subject: TPS Reply with quote

I was just going off the link to the Motronic diagnostics that have been posted in my threads.
The first time I went to try a diagnosis I noticed that the three pin diagnostics connector was as stated, but that Pin #2 did not have the color wiring as described.
If Brown/Blue wires have nothing to due with the TPS then I guess I have nothing to worry about.

I'll try to see if I can get inside the TPS connector to test. Does it make sense to you that there would be a constant 12 volts at the connector when unconnected from the TPS.
Seems correct to me. Does anyone have the time to test a 93-96 K 1100 (RS or LT) TPS connector. If you use a digital volt meter to test between pins 1/4 on the connector what do you see for voltage with the bike on but not started?
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