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Unedited, uncensored review of Drakes LED setup
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good


Joined: 05 Jul 2006
Posts: 3414
Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 8:52 pm    Post subject: Unedited, uncensored review of Drakes LED setup Reply with quote

So eagerly I awaited my 26$ LED replacement set...when it arrived there were 7 bulbs and detailed instructions. I thought to myself....this doesn't look so bad.

What the instructions don't tell you is that removing the instrument cluster is akin to stealing a bone from a rabid pitbull.

15 months I have not done a job that caused so much aggravation. The 4 5mm mounting bolts are in such a place that makes it impossible for normal Allen wrenches to do the job. You might get 1/4 of a turn or 1/2 a turn at most, but there is so much hardware in such a tight space that it makes normal tools and my meathook-sized paws almost impossible.

Another problem is that the holes where the mounting screws go are recessed and larger than the bolt head....and since you can't see you have to go by feel.

I finally took a 5mm Allen key and cut in in half, leaving an "L" shaped section and a straight piece about 5cm long. Wrapping one end of the straight piece with tape for purchase, the 2 new tools made the job much, much easier. I would imagine a small mirror would aid as well.

The rest of it is pretty straightforward. 4 bulbs for the outer lights and the clock bulb...I had 2 extra bulbs and was confuzzled about where they went, so I put a call into customer support. (see below)

The result?



In a word.....phenomenal. Even my wife could not believe the difference in the look. 26$ and a few hrs of labor (I could do it again in 30mins now) for a noticeable upgrade. I wish I had a "before and after" picture in the dark...the difference is striking. There is also a great feeling knowing that I will not have to replace anymore bulbs for a long time, if ever.

The verdict?
1. Product: A+ easily 10x better than stock.
2. Instructions: A..straightforward...or as I said to Drake, "idiot-proof"
3. Customer support: A+ After having 2 bulbs left over, I placed a call to the product hot line. Below is the actual conversation:

<briiiing>
[woman answers]Hello?
[me] Hello Ms Duck, this is Big Dave, is Duck available to talk?
[woman]hold on, he's in the garage again.........Draaaake!
[duck] Hello?
[me] Hey Drake, it's me OTG from the K11 forums.
[duck] Hey
[me] I'm sorry to call, but I have 2 leftover bulbs and I don't want to close everything up without checking
[duck] <pauses> they are for the gauges, dumbass
[me] oh yeah....the gauges <sheepishly clearing throat>
[me] ok man, that's all, sorry for the call


As you can see, customer support for products is top-notch and answered all questions.

In closing, I give this product a 97 out of a hundred.

Anyone not running these bulbs is shortchanging themselves.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 11:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Unedited, uncensored review of Drakes LED setup Reply with quote

Off the grid wrote:
[duck] <pauses> they are for the gauges, dumbass


That is NOT what I said - but it IS what I thought. Laughing
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Ted
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 1:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL!!!
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kewheels
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Joined: 13 Nov 2007
Posts: 25
Location: Salt Lake City,Utah

PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 5:19 am    Post subject: Led replacement kit Reply with quote

I need two of those kits. Ho do I get them?
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good


Joined: 05 Jul 2006
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Location: At the local taco truck waiting for Jo.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, he'll be here soon enough...........

(Send a PM to Flying Duck if he doesn't)
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AndrewD
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Joined: 22 Jun 2008
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Location: Berkshire UK

PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 5:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a line (or 2) to say the kit arrived here in the UK very quickly.

Removal was easy if you remove the 2x 10mm nuts from the mounting plate. Slide away and then remove whole cluster. 4x Allens can then be removed easy as pie.

Results were fantastic, and I cannot recommend this upgrade enough! Cool
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rydor
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Joined: 16 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used Drake's kit to change all my backlights to blue LEDs on my RS... it was striking...
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fnord
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Joined: 23 Oct 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How 'bout some uncensored VIEWS of the product?
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update:

In October nad November I ordereed a whole bunch of different LEDs in an attempt to come up with a kit that replaces ALL of the bulbs with LEDs - including the indicator bulbs.

You don't a major upgrade like you do from the backlighting LEDs. The lower indicator bulbs are about the same. However, the turn signal indicators and the three below them are nicer though in my opinion.

More info here:
http://fdk11.freehostia.com/kbikeparts/ledupgrade.htm
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AndrewD
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Joined: 22 Jun 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you do them in Yellow for the K1?
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AndrewD wrote:
Can you do them in Yellow for the K1?


Yes, I could do amber backlighting for the yellow K1 speedo. However. I haven't experimented with amber so I'm not sure if you'll see a marked improvement like you do with green. In fact, it might be worse.

I have experimented with other colors as follows:

Blue: I did blue on my black K100RS. It looked pretty cool but made the speedo and tach less visible at night. The LCDs for the gear indicator and clock don't illuminate very well since they're designed for green backlighitng. What I did to partially resolve this was take the guts out and tape the sides of the box behind the clock and used a green LED behind the clock. If you don't tape the sides of the clock box then the green will bleed into the lower inner corners of the speedo and clock facepltes.

Red: I have red backlighting in the cluster on my Mystic Red K1100RS. It's better than blue but again not as good as green and not so good for the LCD displays. I also taped the sides of the clock box on that bike and used green to illuminte the clock.

The reason I don't actively sell red or blue is that although it's cool if you want a particular color, it's actually a downgrade from the stock bulbs in terms of instrument readability at night.

White: I haven't personally experimented with white but I have done it for a couple of people here and they seem pleased with the results.

I am going to be ordering more LEDs soon(tomight or tomorrow) so if you're interested in trying amber I could do that for you. Since I've never played with amber I can't guarantee how it will come out though. I'd need to know if you want to go with green or amber for the clock. Drop me a PM if interested.

Here's a couple of pcitures. They are taken with different cameras and aren ot necessarily representative of what they look like in real life.




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86-97 K75F (K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
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and 2 more
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RI Parker
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Joined: 29 Dec 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just had my gauges out to do the 12 hour clock mod Very Happy (http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml). And only after that had it running(first time) in the evening & noticed no illumination. (Had the 'idiot' lamps, but no light on the spedo-tach-clock-gear indicators. Also I have no light on the fuel or temp gauge.) Was wondering if maybe some common line to all the illumination lamps is messed up or something?

Just now I took out the temp gauge to check it, and I have voltage and the bulb is making light. Why doesn't the gauge light up?

Back when I was putting the instrument case back the two bottom screws would never catch, threads are buggered. (Did i do that? Sad ) Anybody have a good fix for stripped threads?
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RI Parker
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I looked again, and my temp gauge DOES LIGHT. (Sorry, my bad).
So maybe whatever wireing is connected at least that far.

Guess I'll get in touch with the Flying Duck soon as I can bribe my son to let me use his PayPal.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roy, there are 2 ground connections.
Pin 13 and pin 18 for the grounds and pin 24 is for the backround lighting.
The backround lighting should also be the same circuit for the guage back lighting as well.
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stripped housing screws: Stick a thin piece of wire in the hole before you put the screw in.

Or put a little epoxy on the screw and just glue it in. (Use epoxy, not JB weld. Something like 5 minute epoxy will let go if it has to. JB Weld is a bit tougher.)

You don't need a PayPal account. You can just mail me a check.

When you put lights back in make sure the foil didn't get folded under.
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93 K11LT
94 K11RS- "Kato"
86-97 K75F (K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/ paralever, high perf. cams,TURBO!
91 K1
86 custom K100
and 2 more
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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