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Light switch not working

 
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forester



Joined: 27 Jan 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Hammammet Tunisia

PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2022 10:00 am    Post subject: Light switch not working Reply with quote

I've got a 1994 K1100LT with 75000 miles on clock. The problem is that when I operate the light switch on the right side the headlight does not come on. I've tested the lamp itself by connecting power direct to connector and it works both in low & high beam. Also when I operate the light switch the kill switch doesn't works but does when light switch in off position.
In order I can ride I've connected two switches to operate the headlight, 1 for low & 1 for high beam. The flash operates correctly on the left handlebar switches but the high beam activation is non operating.
Any ideas as to issue would be helpful
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2022 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The light switch in the right combo switch is probably dirty and malfunctioning.

You can take the switch apart and clean it up. I've been able to fix that right headlight switch before. It's a good idea to lubricate it as well. I recommend spray silicone as it doesn't trap dust like other lubricants will.

Do this on the workbench, not on the bike. There's a tiny ball bearing in the right headlight switch that if you drop in the garage you will probably never find again.

Left headlight switch: The high beam gets power from two different inputs. The regular high beam power comes from the right switch. The flash high beam power comes from the load shed relay.

This link is for the left switch but it will show you how to get the turn and cancel buttons off in order to take the switch apart.
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/leftcombosw/leftcombosw.htm

Here's how to remove the kill switch:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/startkillrehab/startkillrehab.htm
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE


Last edited by Flying Duck on Sat Jun 18, 2022 2:45 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2022 2:34 pm    Post subject: Stab in the dark (No pun intended) Reply with quote

Without splitting it open and looking at the various contacts inside, I would think that a replacement switch would be the easiest solution. I don't know the used spares situation over there but some of the members in the US know and use Motorworks in UK and they can usually help out.

www.motorworks.co.uk

I have just looked at the Motorworks site for you and they say they have good stocks but will cost £147 UK I will leave you to work that out in Dollars but it is in the region of $179
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS


Last edited by Grunter on Sat Jun 18, 2022 2:49 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2022 2:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Stab in the dark (No pun intended) Reply with quote

Grunter wrote:
Without splitting it open and looking at the various contacts inside, I would think that a replacement switch would be the easiest solution. I don't know the used spares situation over there but some of the members in the US know and use Motorworks in UK and they can usually help out.

www.motorworks.co.uk

I have just looked at the Motorworks site for you and they say they have good stocks but will cost £147 UK I will leave you to work that out in Dollars but it is in the region of $179


I have had good results with my R1100RS which has more or less the same switch. I flushed it out with brake and clutch cleaner (I used a lot!) which evaporates very quickly then after 30 mins or so gave it a quick blast with WD40 and it is as good as new. On the recommendation of a BMW engineer they always use a silicone based lubricant on switches because it does not clog up the works. It is the same lube that is recommended for the electric windshield
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2022 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brake cleaner breaks down plastic. I would not use that on a combo switch.

Here's a web page I just did on how to service the right combo switch:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/rtcombsw/rtcombsw.htm
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Mon Jun 20, 2022 10:19 am    Post subject: Brake cleaner Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
Brake cleaner breaks down plastic. I would not use that on a combo switch.

Here's a web page I just did on how to service the right combo switch:
http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/rtcombsw/rtcombsw.htm


Because it evaporates so quickly It will take a lot of exposure and possibly total immersion overnight for it to do harm. Flushing out a switch I would not think would be enough. I will try on an old switch and let you know.
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 7:11 am    Post subject: Plastic degradation Reply with quote

As I said I would, I did test on various pieces of different plastic by immersing them in brake and clutch cleaner for 36 hours.

There was plastic insulation from auto cabling, pieces of Bakelite, polyurethane tubing, a broken lighting switch from my deceased K75s, parts from an old polystyrene model, a selection of rubber rings used in 'O' ring oil seals and a small circuit board from an old cell phone. I it was all in a disused plastic food storage tub and the lid sealed then left in my workshop.

I opened it about 2 hours ago. As far as I can tell there only one thing has been affected and that was the 'O' rings which swelled up but since taking them out of the cleaner and allowed to dry they have shrunk back to their normal size. Nothing else was seemingly affected apart from being a lot cleaner. It is surprising how well that stuff works.
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS
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forester



Joined: 27 Jan 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Hammammet Tunisia

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to everyone for all the input on this.
I've had the switch off the bike and taken it apart, carefully in a box I might add. After cleaning as recommended I reassembled and after much swearing at the small ball managed to get it to stay where it was supposed to, fitted it back to the bike and tested it. Still no operation of lights from the switch. Having tried cleaning it appears that the switch is u/s.
I have another switch that I know is operational back in the UK from the original donor bike I used to recommission this one. I also have all the relays etc from same donor bike so I may bring those back with me when I visit the UK in a couple of weeks time.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 21, 2022 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the right combo switch connector from the bike test to see if you're getting 12V at the green/blue wire when the bike is turned on. That's where the light switch gets its power.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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forester



Joined: 27 Jan 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Hammammet Tunisia

PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2022 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Update"
I can now post an update re the non functioning handlebar switches.
I have had the switches on both sides apart and cleaned using copious amounts of brake cleaner followed by the use of silicone based electrical contact cleaner. I have also cleaned the contacts using fine wet & dry paper and wire wool. Checked the continuity of all wires between the relay/fuse box and each switch. Following all of the above and lots of swearing while reassembling the right hand switch, that damned little ball bearing, the switches are now fully operational.
Thanks to everyone who offered advice
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Jim
Site Admin


Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3841
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS

PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2022 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If anyone is concerned about using brake cleaner, I suggest Mass Air Flow and Throttle Body cleaner - they don't affect plastic, and evaporate very quickly.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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