K11 Owners Group

Grunter · Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 2:52 am Post subject: Oil level sight glass

The sight glass on one of my K75 bikes has become so dirty inside it is virtually impossible to use. I have a replacement but what is the best way to remove it from the engine without bits dropping into the sump?
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 5:23 am Post subject:

When I replaced mine on my RT(uses the same part), all I did was drill a small hole,(some people have used a small electric soldering iron to melt a hole) (1/8") and used a wood screw. Carefully screwed it into the hole, it did crack the plastic because I used a #10 screw when I should have used a #8, however the sight glass did come out in 1 piece.
You are probably going to want to drain the sump anyway. Should something fall in, you could remove the oil filter cover and filter to gain access to clean it out.(as opposed to removing the entire bottom sump cover.
Clean, clean and clean the recess for the new one, I used a 30mm socket to seat the new one. Be firm but careful with how forceful you drive it in, the new one should be glass and can break..... Put it in dry, no lube, no sealant.
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Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)

Grunter · Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 7:46 am Post subject: My problem being

I have only just carried out an oil change and before the level was visible. However I have changed my brand of oil and the new oil is very pale straw colour and cannot be seen. The old oil, even when it was new was a dark brown colour anyway so easily visible.

If I tilt the bike onto the side stand. it leans over at what may look like an awful angle and the level will be below that of the sight glass so it should be easy to lever it out if I melt a hole big enough.

The new glass apparently comes with a circular snap ring - is this normal? I haven't bought it yet, is it a newer modification?
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 4:52 pm Post subject:

The snap ring is only used on certain models of the boxer engine.
Not needed with the K bike engines.
Leaning the bike on the side stand to do this is a double edged sword... Yes the oil will be below the sight glass level, however, if the old one breaks apart, it also then becomes very easy for pieces to fall into the sump.
I suppose if you were to try and have a shop vacuum wand in hand and operating when you try, it might suck up any pieces before they could fall in.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)

Grunter · Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 2:42 am Post subject: Tilt or not to tilt

I have been for a short run to get the engine hot so I could check the balance of the injector bodies and now the oil has had a chance to circulate it has darkened enough for me to see the upper edge of the oil level. I will change the level glass later when I next do a service.

On the K75 it is only 5k between oil changes so I can wait until then.

Thanks for your help.
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 7:40 am Post subject:

My experience with sight glass is a little different.

My K bike "glass" is working just fine, but in early 2020 I traded in an R-RT and bought an '03 R1100S.

The big twin puts out larger piston pulses with just 2 cylinders instead of the K1100's 4, and that places a greater strain on the OEM sight glass. This has (reportedly) caused some to actually blow out with some disastrous results as you might expect.

So one of the first things I did along with an oil and filter change was to get a new sight glass from the Boneyard. The OEM one wasn't showing any signs of a problem, but the thought of it blowing out and lubing the rear tire at 70+ mph made me change it out.

Getting the old one out was an interesting exercise Shocked

The plastic was easy to penetrate but pulling on it just had it breaking into pieces. Careful prying and very careful Dremel work had the metal surround out after some extended time and some #*%@!! language.

The new one went in very easily but be careful as Scott noted.
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

Grunter · Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 11:01 am Post subject:

Thinking about it, drilling small holes into the metal rim and screwing in small screws then using a small claw hammer on alternate screws should pull it out relatively easily.

I have used that method on a car wheel bearing outer grease seal in the past when I didn't have the correct puller to do the job. It was still a fight but it gave up the struggle
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS