K11 Owners Group

jers97lt · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 7:26 pm Post subject: Engine drip: 1997 K1100LT

Hi All,

In front of the oil filter plate, there's a vertical 'port' that has a dark liquid weeping from it. It has built up
a light sludge from the 'port' down to the oil filter plate after 1500mi. What is this 'port'?
Location is also below and in front of the water pump.

Thanks for any further Qs and possible solutions to stop this mess.
Jer
_________________
1999 K1200LT Champaign
1997 K1100LT Night Black/Arctic Silver Metallic (special edition)

N41EF · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 7:37 pm Post subject:

Weep hole from the oil/water pump?
_________________
2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)

jers97lt · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 7:57 pm Post subject:

N41EF · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 8:12 pm Post subject:

No, not "normal" the oil/water pump uses a common shaft with seals that keeps the oil from the water and such. If either seal is leaking you get something out the weep hole, sounds like your is leaking a bit of oil. You can try clearing it up good, the ride a hundred miles and check it. It's a pain to rebuild, and if don improperly will foul that weep hole so nothing leaks out, and you wind up with contaminated oil/coolant.

The world won't end, but it's not going to get better.
_________________
2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)

jers97lt · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 8:42 pm Post subject:

N41EF · Posted: Tue Sep 15, 2020 9:42 pm Post subject:

I'm sure Flying Duck will chime in, I believe on bikes that sat and didn't have coolant flushed it can cause corrosion on the pump shaft, that scores the seals and causes the leaks. Plus the seals are 25 plus years old and get tired. I think you can get parts still, or watch eBay for a oil/water pump.

If it's just seeping I'd ride it to work, but not to Montana. Keep an eye on the sight glass to make sure you aren't getting water in the oil.
_________________
2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)

jers97lt · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 7:55 am Post subject:

flybd5 · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 8:19 am Post subject:

This brought back a flashback from one of Cheech and Chong's LP's back in the 80's... a short segment advertising an imaginary vd medication... "Tired of the steady drip... drip... drip of gonorrhea?" LOL!

Of course, if the K11 had round or fractionally round engines (like the Harleys) you could argue they're just marking their spot on the ground.
_________________
To err once is human. To do so repeatedly is incompetence.
1995 K1100LT SE

Grunter · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 9:12 am Post subject: Pump rebuild

These are supposed to be easy - but a rebuild can go wrong. There are 2 seals one a conventional rubber lipped seal and a mechanical seal that has a ceramic part and if this gets broken it is a new seal kit and they are not cheap themselves.

I had one rebuilt for me and it is working as it should with no leaks from either the coolant or oil. Motorworks the BMW bike spares company in UK used to sell rebuilt ones for a reasonable price, but they had so many complaints about them leaking within the 6 month guarantee period they stopped selling them as 're-built.'

The cost of a new one is eye wateringly expensive, the last time I looked the price was close on £400or around 530$!
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 6:32 pm Post subject:

Maybe this might help.

This is Sugarhill NOT Flying Duck!?

A subtle leak in your bike's bottom end could be this.......

https://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8395

Just trying to help from your Mod crew.
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

Sonu · Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 4:15 am Post subject:

Here is a video of the water oil pump seal replacement
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CBtaioRMx0&ab_channel=spidiq8

Sanjiv
_________________
1997 K1100LT "Ziggy" _GarminGPS_Corbin saddle_K Guards _Hyperlights_Fog lights_Eastern Beaver Relays_Cee Bailey_4"speakers_Michelin PR4's_MoS2_Spiegler lines_TPMS_VDO

garynali · Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 4:35 am Post subject:

Jer
If you opt to replace the seals be very carefull to read and understand the instructions. The water seal is a carbon type and very easily damaged on assembly. A new pump assembly is very expensive (had to get one last year) .
Best of luck with it.
Gary C
K1100RS
Vstrom 1000
Hervey Bay
Australia

jers97lt · Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2020 5:55 pm Post subject:

Sonu · Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2020 3:55 pm Post subject:

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2020 5:49 am Post subject:

Yes, Sanjiv. Just pull the pump assembly off and clean all the surfaces really well. You may need a thin piece of wire to clean out that little U shaped groove.

The hardest part is how much or rather how little sealant to use. The problem is caused by whoever assembled it last. I think that the tendency is to think "if enough is good then too much is better".

If both surfaces are smooth and will mate well, use just a very small bead of sealant.

Clymer states the mounting bolts should first be done finger tight. Then continue to tighten in a crisscross pattern until all are 6-8 nm.
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

Grunter · Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2020 7:35 am Post subject:

Sonu · Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2020 9:59 am Post subject:

John & Grunter

Thanks for the hand holding.
I think I will give this is a shot....

Sanjiv
_________________
1997 K1100LT "Ziggy" _GarminGPS_Corbin saddle_K Guards _Hyperlights_Fog lights_Eastern Beaver Relays_Cee Bailey_4"speakers_Michelin PR4's_MoS2_Spiegler lines_TPMS_VDO

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2020 6:17 am Post subject:

Hey Sanjiv, if it wasn't pandemic time, I would have been out to visit our daughter in San Jose.

Then I could have stopped by and given a hand or at least moral support Laughing

It isn't terribly difficult to do. But remember there are 2 bolts under the pump cover.
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

Sonu · Posted: Sat Oct 03, 2020 9:57 pm Post subject:

Sonu · Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2024 7:33 pm Post subject: Pics of toxic dump fix

So I finally got around to this

Here's a pic showing the problem...
(The U shaped groove is completely caked over with the hardened strip of sealant)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DM7SzLjns-lGM0irlfcUeeoM_VLXfbTv/view?usp=sharing

Here's a pic showing a close up...
(As i pried off the hardened sealant the U shaped groove appeared below)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mYOQXS-Wrslys8ZU-JOMhNgBSnTt-LtV/view?usp=sharing

Here's a pic of the oil/water pump ready to go back in
(the grey bead is the fresh sealant applied...Threebond RTV sealant 1217F recommended by the techs at SanJoseBMW motorcycles)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1a1ojJvTHqCPrAG3CX3tMLvQBhGxfA_nu/view?usp=sharing

Here's a problem I've run into
(The pump cover doesnt fit. It hits the main engine block & prevents all the bolts from aligning)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PtVWU_5epQnL-sk6nvtDPMJki3Ic2Dg3/view?usp=sharing

Any ideas what I might have done wrong?

I guess I can tear it apart again & put it back together but don't know what to do differently.

I followed the procedure listed in this thread. Also looked at Clymber manual. During installation of pump Clymber manual talks about having an assistant rotate the crankshaft in order to center the oil pump gears. I did not do this. The pump slid into place and was flush with the mating surface of the cylinder block quite easily.

Any tips appreciated since I'm stuck.
_________________
1997 K1100LT "Ziggy" _GarminGPS_Corbin saddle_K Guards _Hyperlights_Fog lights_Eastern Beaver Relays_Cee Bailey_4"speakers_Michelin PR4's_MoS2_Spiegler lines_TPMS_VDO