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Front brake seize

 
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jers97lt
Brick Rider


Joined: 31 Dec 2018
Posts: 42
Location: Warrenville, IL

PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 9:27 pm    Post subject: Front brake seize Reply with quote

My '97 K1100LT has had the front brakes lock up the last couple times I've taken her out. New to me this year. Think it's the master cylinder piston, or brake pistons. On my '85 RT I seem to recall the MC piston not releasing, but
just left the brake lights on and no seizing the front wheel. From purchase the front brake lever has been a short grab.

Have fun,
Jer
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1999 K1200LT Champaign
1997 K1100LT Night Black/Arctic Silver Metallic (special edition)
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It could be the interior of the line degrading and blocking the line. Not uncommon with 20 year old brake lines.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3119
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just replaced the lines on my '97 this last weekend.
I had noticed that the front brakes were beginning to be slow to release lately, then I had to make a hard stop and blew one out......
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brake lines. When I would use the front brakes the nose would drop, and it would take a few seconds for the pressure to bleed off and brakes released. I put Spiegler SS line on my LT.
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2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)
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jers97lt
Brick Rider


Joined: 31 Dec 2018
Posts: 42
Location: Warrenville, IL

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

N41EF wrote:
Brake lines. When I would use the front brakes the nose would drop, and it would take a few seconds for the pressure to bleed off and brakes released. I put Spiegler SS line on my LT.

Looks like I found the Spiegler part#: Part #:S-BM0107

Thanks all for your responses.

Have fun,
Jer
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1999 K1200LT Champaign
1997 K1100LT Night Black/Arctic Silver Metallic (special edition)
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jers97lt
Brick Rider


Joined: 31 Dec 2018
Posts: 42
Location: Warrenville, IL

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've changed out my '99 K1200LT lines to Spiegler a couple years ago. Any good advice for doing the K1100LT lines? I did read here about removing front fairing piece and tank.

Thanks,
Jer
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1999 K1200LT Champaign
1997 K1100LT Night Black/Arctic Silver Metallic (special edition)
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, tank and lower fairings including the front part. The rear is easy, the clocking of the fittings take practice. Think about replacing brake pads while you are there anyway.

On my 93 had to release the tie wrap on the wiring harness to get to the fitting where the front lines connect. Also removed the line clamps to be able to raise it up a bit.
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2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did mine last weekend.
I only had to slide the tank back and remove the front fender rear half and the center cover.
Yes the wiring under the tank had to be moved around to get to the line fitting, but didn't have to disconnect anything other than the fuel tank pigtail.

Word of caution, check the fitting of the front fender rear, before torquing the banjo bolts at the splitter.
When trying to twist the banjo fittings, you need to really, really clamp the plastic holders tight(to the point the plastic starts to deform) or else the line will just twist in the clamp.

Make sure you protect all your painted parts from brake fluid drips.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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jers97lt
Brick Rider


Joined: 31 Dec 2018
Posts: 42
Location: Warrenville, IL

PostPosted: Sat Aug 17, 2019 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, cool, cool! Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!
I get the parts end of this week. Can't start until end of next week, but really looking forward to opening up the bike (somewhat) for the first time. Really like the braking and peace of mind with the K12LT being braided.
Special thanks to N41EF for extensive write-up from Mar 2016 (Spiegler Stainless Brake Lines for an LT).

Thanks All,
Jer
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1999 K1200LT Champaign
1997 K1100LT Night Black/Arctic Silver Metallic (special edition)
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jers97lt
Brick Rider


Joined: 31 Dec 2018
Posts: 42
Location: Warrenville, IL

PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 4:33 pm    Post subject: 1997 K1100LT Reply with quote

Replaced with Spiegler. Trying to fill lines from front MC to ABS bleeder (back of the two) and can't get fluid to pump through the line. MC volume doesn't change. Not using a speed bleeder.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Jer
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1999 K1200LT Champaign
1997 K1100LT Night Black/Arctic Silver Metallic (special edition)
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3119
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have an electric vacuum pump that I use to bleed mine with.
Some use a hand held vac bleeder.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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jers97lt
Brick Rider


Joined: 31 Dec 2018
Posts: 42
Location: Warrenville, IL

PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2019 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shouldn't you be able to manually bleed the brakes on the '97 LT? I.e., open/close bleeder while open/close the brake lever.
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1999 K1200LT Champaign
1997 K1100LT Night Black/Arctic Silver Metallic (special edition)
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3119
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Mon Aug 26, 2019 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honestly, I'm not sure if the master cyl pistons will move enough fluid with each stroke to truly "move the air" to the bleeders adequately.
Even the BMW shop method calls to push the brake fluid to the bleeders by external pressure source to bleed the system.
_________________
Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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jers97lt
Brick Rider


Joined: 31 Dec 2018
Posts: 42
Location: Warrenville, IL

PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even with a Mityvac, I can't pull fluid out of the MC from the ABS bleeder. I removed all fluid and blew 20lbs compressed air from the ABS to MC and saw a little air coming out of the MC port.
The rear brakes bled very easily.
This thread originated with my front brakes seizing. Still wondering if it's not the MC piston, but that shouldn't be stopping the fluid from moving from MC to ABS bleeder. I've tried with the lever out, pulled in, pulled in slightly...
Stumped!
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1999 K1200LT Champaign
1997 K1100LT Night Black/Arctic Silver Metallic (special edition)
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 4:24 pm    Post subject: bleeding brakes on a K1100LT Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
Honestly, I'm not sure if the master cyl pistons will move enough fluid with each stroke to truly "move the air" to the bleeders adequately.
Even the BMW shop method calls to push the brake fluid to the bleeders by external pressure source to bleed the system.


I had to do mine fully twice during the 4 years I owned it. I had no problem what so ever doing it manually on either occasion. It is a help if you manually press the pistons back into the brake calipers which will leave less space for brake fluid to trap air bubbles. To stop the pistons moving until you want them to, jam a piece of wood between the pistons or pads if you leave them in place.


Bleed the line as far as the ABS pump, then bleed the remainder of the system

Bleed only one brake at once, it really is so easy.
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1994 R1100RS
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2019 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With respect to the line from the front master cylinder to the ABS, if you’re trying to bleed the air out at the bleeder at the ABS then you have gravity working against you as the air travels upward in the brake line. I’ve found the best way to get air out of that line is to put the handlebars at full lock left and, as necessary, rotate the throttle perch to get the hole in the master cylinder to be the highest point in the system. Then just squeeze the front brake lever slowly until the little bubbles stop. Then let it sit for a few minutes and do it again just to be sure that all of the air has been bubbled up and out at the top.

For the calipers I unbolt them and hang them with string from the garage rafters so that their bleed valves are the high point in the system.

(This is just for getting brake fluid into an “empty” system that has lots of air. Shouldn’t be necessary if you’re just bleeding to get new brake fluid into an already filled brake system to pushing the old crap out.)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2019 1:30 am    Post subject: Bleeding Reply with quote

I totally agree with you but I have found that on the pipes on my last K1100 (1998LT Version) this didn't work for whatever reason. Whether it was by design or a previous owner had re-routed them I don't know.

When doing my K75 bikes I don't even have to open the nipples on either of the two front calipers. and completely bleed them exactly as you describe.

One point that could be of use is to tap the pipe from the ABS unit to the M/cylinder with the handle of a screwdriver which will help to release any air bubbles which attach themselves to the inside walls of the pipe.
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1994 R1100RS
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Thu Aug 29, 2019 1:30 am    Post subject: Bleeding Reply with quote

I totally agree with you but I have found that on the pipes on my last K1100 (1998LT Version) this didn't work for whatever reason. Whether it was by design or a previous owner had re-routed them I don't know.

When doing my K75 bikes I don't even have to open the nipples on either of the two front calipers. and completely bleed them exactly as you describe.

One point that could be of use is to tap the pipe from the ABS unit to the M/cylinder with the handle of a screwdriver which will help to release any air bubbles which attach themselves to the inside walls of the pipe.
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1994 R1100RS
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jers97lt
Brick Rider


Joined: 31 Dec 2018
Posts: 42
Location: Warrenville, IL

PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2019 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The next member that states they can't manually bleed their lines, they might want to consider a rebuild of the MC. Even thought I'm much more confident with the new Spielers, the rubber lines weren't the issue.

Thanks for all the replies,
Jer
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1997 K1100LT Night Black/Arctic Silver Metallic (special edition)
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 30, 2019 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And rebuild instructions can be found on the bottom half of this page:

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/master.leak/master.leak.htm
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
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