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Seized brakes
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CaptainBalrog
Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Jul 2018
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 7:01 pm    Post subject: Seized brakes Reply with quote

Hi

So my bike sat for a few months over the winter and the brakes are a bit seized up.

I'm just asking this because this bike is a bit different to any other bike I've had.

So on my old xt600 I could just take the caliper off, clean the exposed surface of the pistons, open up the fluid reservoir and press the pistons back in.

Any chance it's as simple on the k1100lt?

Would really appreciate some tips.
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, it's that easy. If you don't know when it was last flushed, you might flush the brakes while you are there.

Also, does it have original rubber brake lines?
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2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)
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CaptainBalrog
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Joined: 14 Jul 2018
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great!

I got some new fluid for flushing as I've no idea how long the current fluid has been in there.

And yes it still has the rubber brake lines. Should I be looking to replace those?
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Jim
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Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3840
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brake fluid needs to be changed every year or two (I change or have it changed every year).

Your bike must be at least 20 - 22 years old - or more.

Yes - definitely change the brake lines - they fail inside - and lock up the brakes.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000
1992 R100R 24,000 - FOR SALE

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10085
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or they clog, leaving you with no brakes.
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93 LT (x2)
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86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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CaptainBalrog
Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Jul 2018
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2019 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had a look at new hoses and they're a bit pricy for the minute.

Anyone cleaned the calipers without disconnecting the hoses. Looks a bit tight for the rear one and the ABS cables look awefully flimsy.

Would make it a lot simpler though.

Anyone got a super simple step by step for getting it done fast?

Going to be 15 degrees here on Saturday. Would be great to have the bike out.
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robleyd
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Joined: 23 Jul 2009
Posts: 398
Location: Murbko, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
they're a bit pricy for the minute.


No brakes is a lot more pricey; funerals get expensive Very Happy
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3119
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobody is saying you have to buy them from BMW.....they don't have the corner on the market with brake hoses.

There are aftermarket kits available, or if you have a good local machine shop/parts supply house they may even custom make them for you for a whole lot less $$

Use the search feature here and you can bring up some other threads that discuss aftermarket options and where to buy them.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I get stainless lines from https://www.motobins.co.uk/

It's helpful to get open ended 11 & 14mm open end box wrenches to work on brake lines.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Al.
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Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 383
Location: West of Ireland

PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or WEMOTO in UK

https://www.wemoto.com
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CaptainBalrog
Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Jul 2018
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi folks

Thanks for the links.

Looks like I Def need the brake lines. Right side one looks to have been partially worn through and everything is mega rusty. And I mean everything. The pads are shedding leaves!

So anyway when I start something like this on an old bike I don't bother planning a full job. There's always something that turns into a battle. In this case it's the pin that goes through the pads. One side came off fine but the other one won't budge. Don't want to put too much pressure on it cause it looks like someone else had taken a chunk out of it. I'll need to replace both anyway they look knackered.

So anyone got any tips on how to get this little sod out?
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nail set + hammer.


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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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CaptainBalrog
Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Jul 2018
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

I don't think it's hammeroutable.

I screwed out the other one.

It's the sort that you screw it in and then put a wee pin through a hole in it in case it comes loose.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does it look like this?


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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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garynali
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Apr 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Hervey Bay, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gday Captain
The previous advice is all good. No messing with brakes, dying is so inconvenient and your mates get to drink all your booze. Motobins supplied me a full set of braided stainless lines ages ago. Price was good and they work great. We have all been through this once the original rubber hoses fail. Do the whole job right and once only.
Good luck
Gary C
93 K1100RS
14 DL1000
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10085
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 5:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a write-up I did on swapping brake lines on a K1100:

http://dws.x10host.com/11tech/94-96_K1100RS_Galfer_Brake_Line_Install_V1.2.doc.pdf
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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CaptainBalrog
Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Jul 2018
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yip it is hammeroutable.

Apologies for the doubt Embarassed

And thanks for the guide as well.

Just started fiddling with the back break and the lever isn't returning properly. This is turning into a proper operation!

Thanks for the help.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rear brake warning: You'll notice a bolt on the rear brake lever that can be used to adjust it's connection to the rear master cylinder. If you extend this too much then the rear brake lever, if applied hard enough, can push the master cylinder piston in far enough that it gets caught on the master cylinder set screw.

When this happens it will "lock up" the rear brake. Not to the point where it will keep the rear wheel from turning but definitely enough to know something is wrong with the rear brake when riding. If this happens, PULL OVER as soon as it is safe and convenient.

If you keep riding with the rear brake locked up then the braking friction will make the rotor extremely hot. Since it is very close to the rubber boot between the swing arm and final drive that rubber boot can literally CATCH FIRE and start to burn. Yes, flaming burning rubber.

Once you pull over you should be able to use a 3mm Allen wrench to loosen the master cylinder set screw to free up the piston and then retighten it.

I usually leave an inch or so of play in the rear brake lever, enough so that I can light up the brake light so cars behind me can see it but without actually braking.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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CaptainBalrog
Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Jul 2018
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roger that.

I'll deal with it after I get the front sorted.

I'm not riding it at all till I get it sorted so no danger.
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spiegler makes stainless kits for the LT. I found mine on eBay, used Spiegler's web site to figure out what part number I needed.

The stainless pins in the front can be cleaned up with steel wool and a little grease on it when you insert it. Careful not to get any on the pads.

I used almost a quart of DOT 4 when I replaced my lines and flushed the whole system. I flushed it, left it overnight, then flushed the next day to get any residual air out. Make sure you bleed at the ABS units if your bike still has them.

As Duck mentioned careful about not over-adjusting to try to take slack out of the rear brake. You want to be able to tap and flash rear brake light without braking.
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