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Just one more thing

 
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CaptainBalrog
Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Jul 2018
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2018 5:15 am    Post subject: Just one more thing Reply with quote

Hi

OK I know i've asked a lot of questions in a short time but i just really need to ask this one more.

Now i've noticed this kind of question can start a beef but i really need to know.

Torque! Sorry. I'm one of them!

The table at the start of this manual:

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/shopmanuals/BMW_K1100_LT_RS_Repair_Manual.pdf


Says 30nm for the engine oil drain plug.

Then later in the maintenance section -- page 00.11 -- it says 18nm!

And i think -- don't have it to hand just now -- my Clymer manual says something else again. Maybe 20nm.

The manual above also says 20nm for transmission fill and drain plugs. Clymer manual just says "Tighten securely"!

The Clymer manual i had for my XT600 was great but this one i have to say is a little less clear.

Could someone out there with a k1100lt somewhere in the region of 1996 tell me if the torque settings in the linked manual are accurate please. I've just lost confidence in the whole manual concept!
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4240
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2018 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Captain,

Others will be along to add in their experience/opinion, but here is mine.

BTW, my experience is with a '94 K1100RS, '93 K1100RS and my present '92 K100RS4v.

Many of the bolts, nuts, etc, aren't very critical but I have always used the Clymer manual when I was unsure of any torque value, to avoid just what you are running into.

You mentioned conflicting info- 18nm vs. 20nm. NOT a very significant difference- and at times difficult to be so exact. I would split the difference or just go with the very slightly higher torque.

The point I am getting at is that very little is that critical on these engines on regular tune ups. Once (and IF) you ever get deep into the engine, trans and final drive torque values become more important. But overall these things are pretty bulletproof.

Somewhere I have written that after a global nuclear holocaust there would be two things that survive- cockroaches and K bikes.

Good luck and welcome again.

John
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3117
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2018 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I try to use the BMW specs as much as possible, after all, they did make the bike..... however........
I also have noticed some of the same discrepancies.

I personally go by what is printed in the individual maintenance sections, not necessarily what is in the "chart", so 18-20nm would be perfectly fine, I would not do 30. Same with the transmission and fd plugs, 20-25nm is more than enough. If you are careful, the crush washers can be re-used, but don't be afraid to use new if you are not comfortable with re-using old ones as they do not last forever. Depending on where you buy your filters, some filter 'kits' come with new crush washers and the filter cover o-ring.

Don't forget to let your hands/head help you as well. If it feels like something is wrong, stop. You are dealing with 20+ year old aluminum components. Unless you know the history of the bike, I would be in no hurry to use a high torque value. Last thing you want to do is strip a thread--especially where the forks are concerned--very easy to strip threads.

One last item... Torque Wrenches also don't last forever. Clicker and digital types do need checked from time to time, they can fail. Even beam types can get weak.
Just sayin, don't be afraid of common sence.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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Jim
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Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3840
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2018 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The one place - actually 2 places this is critical is the fork oil fill caps. Be careful with those!

Just as you reach the right torque, or a split second after, the threads will strip. Fortunately, the entire fork cap can be replaced fairly inexpensively - as long as they're available.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000
1992 R100R 24,000 - FOR SALE

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2018 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Somewhere on Duck's pages of info there is a K bike torque sheet in pdf format. I had it hanging on the freezer in my garage until last weekend.....
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