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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA
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 Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2018 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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So, you got the bottom part of the switch out w/o drilling? Have you been able to get a replacement part back in yet?
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 383
Location: West of Ireland
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| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 6:18 am Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | | So, you got the bottom part of the switch out w/o drilling? Have you been able to get a replacement part back in yet? |
The grub screw is accessible when r.h. box is removed.
The clue in an old post was the red paint, I presume
worked as a Locktite
It's in the mail system....
I think I'll be able to line up the switch based on position of old one.
But I'm guessing you have a hint..
What do I use instead of red paint - superglue?????
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1994 K1100 LTSE + Blackbird |
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3119
Location: Central Iowa, USA
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| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2018 7:30 am Post subject: |
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I wouldn't use superglue..... I'd use some paint again were it me. Something that will hold the screw in place yet easily removable if needed.
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Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.) |
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 383
Location: West of Ireland
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| Posted: Tue May 01, 2018 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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All reconnected and working.
No road test yet but I don't expect issues.
Thankx for advice
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1994 K1100 LTSE + Blackbird |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 1:00 am Post subject: |
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I'd use 5 minute epoxy. It will stay in place but can be picked out pretty easily when necessary.
Were you able to get that lower switch assembly out and back in without messing with the fork trees? (I think my 94 RS is having issues with that or its wiring.)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 383
Location: West of Ireland
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| Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 4:23 am Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | I'd use 5 minute epoxy. It will stay in place but can be picked out pretty easily when necessary.
Were you able to get that lower switch assembly out and back in without messing with the fork trees? (I think my 94 RS is having issues with that or its wiring.) |
Once the box on rh side was out you could see the grub screw.
It's a fine slot in the screw and screw very tiny.
I had to pick out the red paint with like a dentists tool.
I put a cloth under it before removing it with a tweezrs with a touch of grease on them and dipped the screwdriver in a tiny bit of grease putting it back in.
The switch dropped down easily enough and went up very easily.
I was sorry I didn't take pics of cable route just to be sure.
It seems to do a lot of flexing particularly on full lock left.
The switch had two "pins" to locate it. One is a round and the other rectangular. If you note positions of key and slot in switch it should go back ok.
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1994 K1100 LTSE + Blackbird |
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 383
Location: West of Ireland
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| Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 4:23 am Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | I'd use 5 minute epoxy. It will stay in place but can be picked out pretty easily when necessary.
Were you able to get that lower switch assembly out and back in without messing with the fork trees? (I think my 94 RS is having issues with that or its wiring.) |
Once the box on rh side was out you could see the grub screw.
It's a fine slot in the screw and screw very tiny.
I had to pick out the red paint with like a dentists tool.
I put a cloth under it before removing it with a tweezrs with a touch of grease on them and dipped the screwdriver in a tiny bit of grease putting it back in.
The switch dropped down easily enough and went up very easily.
I was sorry I didn't take pics of cable route just to be sure.
It seems to do a lot of flexing particularly on full lock left.
The switch had two "pins" to locate it. One is a round and the other rectangular. If you note positions of key and slot in switch it should go back ok.
_________________
1994 K1100 LTSE + Blackbird |
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Al.
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 383
Location: West of Ireland
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| Posted: Wed May 02, 2018 6:57 am Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | I'd use 5 minute epoxy. It will stay in place but can be picked out pretty easily when necessary.
Were you able to get that lower switch assembly out and back in without messing with the fork trees? (I think my 94 RS is having issues with that or its wiring.) |
I sent a pm - I think......
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1994 K1100 LTSE + Blackbird |
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