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Drive shaft failure poll

 
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What caused your drive shaft failure?
Rear U-joint
75%
 75%  [ 3 ]
Front U-joint
25%
 25%  [ 1 ]
Other (please explain)
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
Total Votes : 4

Author Message
Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10085
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:03 am    Post subject: Drive shaft failure poll Reply with quote

From what I've seen most, if not all, drive shaft catastrophes are caused by the rear U-joint "exploding."

Curious if anyone has had either the front U-joint explode or other drive shaft issues.
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86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4240
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to add to my answer-

While it is my rear U joint that failed, several years ago I made the mistake of replacing just the front joint since the rear joint felt smooth and tight to me.

So my rear failure is my fault.......

Conclusion? If one joint needs to be replaced, REPLACE BOTH.
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reason I started this thread was in regards to what spares to carry when out touring far from home.

I always carry spare clutch and throttle cables.

Thought it might be a good idea to also carry a backup for the drive shaft. Carrying a whole drive shaft is bulky and heavy but figured that if the rear U-joint is usually what fails then it might make sense just to carry the rear half which weighs a lot less than the whole assembly and doesn't take up much room. (and also a 12mm Allen wrench for the inner rear pivot)
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
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Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I always carry spare clutch and throttle cables also but (until recently Embarassed )
never thought of driveline parts.
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
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BobZ(IL)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 May 2007
Posts: 651
Location: Bourbonnais, IL

PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had the drive shaft go far from home, but I'm still not keen on loading up with spare parts. I've had so many trouble free miles.
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe the answer is to have a spare drive shaft at home, that can be sent overnight to you? Don't know I'd want to haul one on the bike, but it would fit in a large overnight UPS box with the tools.
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Alan Walker
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Joined: 26 Jul 2011
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Location: Tulsa, OK

PostPosted: Sat Aug 19, 2017 7:28 pm    Post subject: Driveshaft Failure Reply with quote

I have never had a u-joint failure but have had failure of the rubber insert within the driveshaft. It would slip worse after bike had warmed up and progressively get worse the longer rode.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 9:13 am    Post subject: Re: Driveshaft Failure Reply with quote

Alan Walker wrote:
I have never had a u-joint failure but have had failure of the rubber insert within the driveshaft. It would slip worse after bike had warmed up and progressively get worse the longer rode.


Interesting, never heard of that one but I see how that might happen.

At least that one doesn't leave you dead in the water like a blown up U-joint and you can still ride the bike.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing is for sure, once that rubber starts slipping you loose your phasing of the drive shaft joints and I would think you start to get some nasty vibrations.
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jay k.
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Apr 2003
Posts: 93
Location: E. Haddam, CT

PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What should the angle between the FD and the drive shaft be? Is there a spec for that?
I bought an adjustable paralever strut from Realm Engineering because I'm running a rear wheel from a K1200 (17"x5.5" wide) and want to raise the ride height back to stock.
Thx - Jay
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jay k. wrote:
What should the angle between the FD and the drive shaft be? Is there a spec for that?
I bought an adjustable paralever strut from Realm Engineering because I'm running a rear wheel from a K1200 (17"x5.5" wide) and want to raise the ride height back to stock.
Thx - Jay


http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/dsphase/dsphase.htm
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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jay k.
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 17 Apr 2003
Posts: 93
Location: E. Haddam, CT

PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks.
That's phasing.
But what about the angle between the shaft and the bevel gear?
Should it be as straight a line as possible?
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'20 R1250RS - The RS
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'05 R1100S Boxer Cup Replica - The Boxer
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Jim
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jay k. wrote:

But what about the angle between the shaft and the bevel gear?
Should it be as straight a line as possible?


That would be ideal.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jay k. wrote:
Thanks.
That's phasing.
But what about the angle between the shaft and the bevel gear?
Should it be as straight a line as possible?


That would be a monolever.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4240
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jay k. wrote:
Thanks.
That's phasing.
But what about the angle between the shaft and the bevel gear?
Should it be as straight a line as possible?


Actually the optimum would be the same as the angle between the transmission output and the shaft. This was posted a few weeks ago. Look at : 45

https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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Jim
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, John - that's what I meant.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000
1992 R100R 24,000 - FOR SALE

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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