K11 Owners Group

[Mike123]

Bike passed MOT with only advisory that brake line at front (where it goes to top of front wheel) looks like original and could do with replacing in the future, with that I purchased a full set Stainless Steel hoses (x4) from Motorworks

Does any one have a link or pictures of how to approach changing over to GR hoses to the front (Seen some write ups about removing tank / fairing).

Also when done what is the best approach to bleeding the system

Mike
thumb_20160909_121517_1024 by mike Stewart, on Flickr
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Mike

[Nickh]

Hi Mike,

I'm about to do the same to my K as well, for the same reason.

Take a look at: http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51711

Diagram 34_0676 and 34_0678

They show the arrangement of the top flexible hose to the union with the solid line to the ABS pump under the saddle (I've assumed ABS 2 here from your picture, and that you know how to bleed brakes), and the return from the pump via a solid line to the union with another flexi hose, which runs from under the tank, to the union mounted under the plastic cover on the fork brace (top of the front wheel).

They do not show the lower flexi hoses from the fork brace union, to the brake calipers, a confusing version can be seen in diagram 34_0648. The lowers are fairly straight forward to fit though.

The major issue is ferreting around through all the wiring under the fuel tank finding the brake line unions. When you first try to undo those make sure you have lots of absorbent material stuffed underneath them. Some brake fluid will always remain in there, however you drain the lines.

Most importantly DO NOT twist the solid lines, when undoing the unions.

Bleeding the system is done in two stages. Using a bleeding tube (Halfords do a useful little one with a container attached) on the correct nipple on the ABS pump (can't remember which is which) pump fluid from the handlebar reservoir to the ABS system, and bleed it there. CAUTION, do not release the front brake lever quickly . . . it squirts fluid out of the reservoir all over the inner fairing . . . yes I've done that too.
Once done, lock off the ABS bleed nipple, then move the tube to a bleed nipple on one of the front brakes, and do the same there. Finish off by doing the other side.

Motorworks do a set of neat "one man bleed nipples" for the K1100, not cheap but a lot easier to use than the originals.

If you've got access to a vacuum bleeder, then you'll use a lot less brake fluid. I just buy lots.

Once done run the bike and see if the ABS light extinguishes. If it does job done, if it doesn't there's air in the ABS pump. Let it settle for an hour or so, then re-bleed as above.

After a week or so, I'd recommend another re-bleeding for "belt and braces" purposes.

Next, replace the rear ones.

Hope this helps,

Nick
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Nick

If you don't ask . . you don't get.

[Mike123]

Thanks Nick,

Will crack on when hoses arrive; I did think about buying a bleed kit to make life a bit easier (rear ones have already been done).

Great write up.

Thanks again
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Mike

[Nickh]

Forgot to say . . .

. . when removing the tank, don't forget to disconnect the fuel gauge sender . . . there's a black (on mine) electrical four pin plug on the right of the bike, just in front of the rear brake fluid reservoir to the front of the battery.

It's obvious when you find it, but if you can't find it . . . when lifting the rear of the tank, you'll see the wires going down into the bike on the right at the rear.

Nick
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Nick

If you don't ask . . you don't get.