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Driveshaft disaster
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4240
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 7:21 pm    Post subject: Driveshaft disaster Reply with quote

Last Wednesday on my way to Hungry Mother X, I was 300+ miles into the 925 mile trip when I felt a sudden, hard vibration while riding at 75mph.

Quickly pulled over onto the highway shoulder and shut the bike off. Once on the centerstand, I spun the rear wheel with my hand and felt/heard what confirmed I suspected- driveshaft damage.

Got the bike home (a story in itself) and pulled the final drive off to find.......







Audi (Abreeze) was kind enough to give me a rear U joint, but unfortunately it doesn't fit- it may have come off a K1200.

So- hello Ebay.

Also while meeting everyone at HMX, there seems to be the opinion that these K11 U joints may have a life of about 100,000 miles. That's just about what mine has on it.

Just a suggestion that if yours has close to or over 100K miles or 160K Km it might be a good idea to inspect. And save yourself a bunch of grief and waiting on the side of a road.
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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N41EF
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Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ouch! Did you find out where the oil was coming from? Front seal of final drive or?
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boxerNZ
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Joined: 23 Feb 2011
Posts: 117
Location: Whangarei NZ

PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HI John
R the bloody BMW drive shaft problem, at least u can fix it
hope to hear u have
Paul has just the part u need
Good to read u guys keep going to the hungry mothers

darryl
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4240
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

N41EF wrote:
Ouch! Did you find out where the oil was coming from? Front seal of final drive or?


Final drive.

Low mile driveshaft ordered from the UK. Probably order up a FD today from the best inventory dealer (a.k.a. Ebay)

But just talked to MaxBMW and they will fix the input shaft seal next week so holding off on a replacement FD.
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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Dave6172
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Joined: 20 Jun 2013
Posts: 84
Location: Winston Salem, NC

PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

But hey, it got you home! Mine has 105, 407. looks like an inspection is in my future before my trip to Ontario next month.
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave6172 wrote:
But hey, it got you home! Mine has 105, 407. looks like an inspection is in my future before my trip to Ontario next month.


Uh No- it broke 300 miles from home. The rental van got me and the bike home .
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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BobZ(IL)
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Joined: 20 May 2007
Posts: 651
Location: Bourbonnais, IL

PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I joined the driveshaft replacement club at 89000 miles in Oregon a couple of years ago. Through the help of Drake and friends plus prompt service from BMW in Tigard I was on my way within couple of days.
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2017 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally had a chance to get it up on the lift, pull it apart then clean and reassemble up to the point where the shaft and FD can be installed when they arrive.
Decided to buy a BFD off eBay instead of taking most of a day to have Max fix my FD input seal.

A few more pictures of the guilty parties........






BTW, the front U joint that I had Henderson machine rebuild 3? 4? years ago looks and feels great. If you ever need another source for a U joint rebuild (unless the yoke is demolished like mine is this time) I highly recommend them

This is the front joint. Henderson rebuilt it and installed C clips for possible easy replacement in the future. You can also see where they provided a threaded port that can accept a zerk fitting to regrease if necessary. It is then plugged before using the shaft.



Will post when the new (used) parts arrive and get installed.
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just received a good driveshaft in the mail from England.

Great news is that for about $168 USD, including shipping, I have a good shaft with 2 good U joints.

BFD should be here in 4 days.
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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BobZ(IL)
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Joined: 20 May 2007
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Location: Bourbonnais, IL

PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a great price.
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'93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update on the driveshaft/FD disaster.

The driveshaft from England was here quickly and in very good shape. Installed.

The FD from ebay also arrived but makes some very disturbing noise when I installed it and took it for a ride. I removed that one and placed it in the "to be investigated" pile.

Scott alerted me about someone selling a FD over on the Motobrick site. Bought that one and it is on the bike now but it has a very slight leak from the output seal (I find a drip or two on the garage floor that is coming off the bottom of the rear disc rotor).

So it looks like I need to replace that seal but I have the ebay FD to pull apart and do a test disassembly on. So if I screw it up, no big deal right?

So I have searched for how to replace it but nothing comes up that looks like good directions. On a BMW fiche there is this:



Where #1 is the seal but #2 is a shim that comes in 17 different diameters. Is this shim for the seal or for the bearing (#3)?

Right now I have 3 different FDs and each one has a problem Laughing

Any help from the K11OG brain trust?
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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whyoldbill
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Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Posts: 440
Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:

Where #1 is the seal but #2 is a shim that comes in 17 different diameters.


John,
I think those shim part numbers refer to 17 different thicknesses. Euro-style use of commas is different than ours.
Take a look at pp248-250 of the Service Manual pdf.
PM me if you need a copy.
Duck probably knows an easier way, though.
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found some good info on changing out the output seal- looks pretty straightforward.

However there were a few that mentioned that a failed seal may indicate a soon to be failing output bearing.

I'll be checking for that as best as possible
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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Mike d
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Joined: 19 Feb 2010
Posts: 130
Location: Daventry UK

PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pop the old leaking seal out, then carefully check the bearing cage rivets. One of the early indicators is a missing/damaged rivet that leads to a full break up of the cage and of course bearing failure.

The housing shim size is determined when measuring for the pre-load on the pinion taper bearing.

If you are just replacing the seal you shouldn't have to change the shim (assuming the existing preload is correct of course).

Mike
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks everyone. Sending away for the seal- will post some pictures and what to do or not do. Smile
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'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
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knwyman



Joined: 25 Jul 2017
Posts: 16
Location: Western MA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 8:02 am    Post subject: Final drive output seal Reply with quote

Hey folks, this is my first post -I'll do an intro in Campfire when I can.

I have a final drive output seal leak on my 94 LT. I just got the seal yesterday & will replace it over the weekend. I've done a bit of research & it seems to be recommended to split the final drive case & remove the crown gear to replace this seal. That looks like more work than is necessary. I'm planning to pull the seal without any disassembling the fd unit. I've worked on diesel driven transport refrigeration units for over 20 years & this seal set up is very similar to a rear main seal on our 4 cylinder kubotas where it's simpler to leave the bearing cover/seal plate in the engine & just pop the seal out & a new one back in (there's more to it but I'll spare you the details). I'll try to snap a few pics & post how it goes...
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94 K1100LT
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4240
Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kris and WELCOME! Smile

I'll be watching for your write up and pictures. Keep in mind that you can't upload pictures directly to here- they need to be posted on a 3rd party site first.
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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knwyman



Joined: 25 Jul 2017
Posts: 16
Location: Western MA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you! I'm better with a wrench than I am with a computer but I'm a budding landscape photographer on the side & should be able to host them from my website if I can figure it out Rolling Eyes

SugarHillCTD wrote:
Thanks Kris and WELCOME! Smile

I'll be watching for your write up and pictures. Keep in mind that you can't upload pictures directly to here- they need to be posted on a 3rd party site first.

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Kris

94 K1100LT
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02 Buell S3T
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Mike d
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 19 Feb 2010
Posts: 130
Location: Daventry UK

PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Absolutely no need to split the drive to remove/fit a new out[put seal. When you remove the seal check the bearing cage for any damaged rivets, as these are the start of a disintegrating bearing cage. That's when you need to dig deeper.

If there is no bearing damage or excessive play, then just press in the new seal.

Mike
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knwyman



Joined: 25 Jul 2017
Posts: 16
Location: Western MA

PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like the seal is going to have to wait, I aggravated a back injury (I have herniated L4 & L5 discs) & really don't think I ought to be doing anything much more strenuous than lying down for a day or two, unfortunately.
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Kris

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