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topbox frame for k1100lt cracked at stress point

 
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Corkboy
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Aug 2013
Posts: 81
Location: Cork, Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 1:58 pm    Post subject: topbox frame for k1100lt cracked at stress point Reply with quote

As the subject says, the topbox rack frame has started cracking at one of the leverage points. Probably from carrying too many shoes for my wife on our trips. Shocked

Being a tight git (and only second hand ones are available of unknown origin), I was going to take it off and epoxy in two metal strips, one each side. It looks like, from the parts diagram, that there's a lattice of plastic on the backside of the frame. I was going to cut a groove where necessary to seat the metal, and epoxy it in.

Any thoughts? Has anyone had this problem and how did they resolve it?

As always, thanks for the thoughts
Corkboy.
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'08 K1200GT
'87 K100RS 0140995 (Gone)
'97 K1100LT 0188024 (Gone)
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Scott_Anderson
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Picture of what you are working on?
I'm trying to picture it in my mind but I'm drawing a blank.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Corkboy
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Aug 2013
Posts: 81
Location: Cork, Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a picture of the part. The red bit highlighted is where the frame has started cracking. Obviously through stress due to the leverage on from the topbox.

As you can see from the opposite frame, where you can see the back of the frame, it has a lot of cross bracing (but not enough)

Hope this clarifies



https://picasaweb.google.com/117199063345477057115/K1100LT?authkey=Gv1sRgCPCHsenjq7yaUw
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks similarly close to the part that Dr. Gui repaired on his LT a few years ago.

I'll see if I can find his post about it.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



Here's a pic of the bracket he made. I haven't found the thread where he makes it.....

Well, he made it a kit for Jim here. Here's some pics of what he made.




Here was his final result.

Final result of the Top Case mounting reiforcement.
Two steel vertical braces each side, going from rear lateral case support mounting stud to lower top case frame stud.
With an cross-link screwed.




Now, the whole package (top case and support), flexes a lot less, and provides more support to the passenger.
Next step: put some LED lateral Brake Lights in the vertical braces.
Gui
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Corkboy
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Aug 2013
Posts: 81
Location: Cork, Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, that's certainly the way to solve it for good!

Yes, the crack in picture 1 is exactly where mine developed. I must see if Dr. Gui is still here and see if he has dimensions. Otherwise I could rough them up myself from the bike.

I'd have to get them made up as I don't have the facilities or raw materials to fashion them myself.

Thanks for that Scott, it's a great help.
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'87 K100RS 0140995 (Gone)
'97 K1100LT 0188024 (Gone)
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

His username here is "drmalacarne".
They were posted in his "Riding in Brazil" thread in the pictures forum.

You could try and send him a pm/email message and see if you get a response.

You could also contact Jim here and see if he still has the kit, as he's contemplating parting out his LT after some body damage again.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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N41EF
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Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K1100LT-Left-Saddlebag-Case-Holder-mount-bracket-k75-46542300037-/111348075133?hash=item19ecdcca7d:g:0d8AAOxyi-ZTark6&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K1100LT-RIGHT-Saddlebag-Case-Holder-mount-bracket-k75-465423000378-/111348077019?hash=item19ecdcd1db:g:6B4AAOxyuR5TarpF&vxp=mtr

$30 ish per side
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N41EF
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want to fix yours, you could use fiberglass cloth (Uni-directional) and then glass in an aluminum bar to give it a little more strength. Then a light sanding and flat black spray paint to cover it.

I'd do both of them and fill in the hollow portion on the back side of both of them.

I have the glass on hand, let me know I can mail you enough in an envelope.
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
His username here is "drmalacarne".
They were posted in his "Riding in Brazil" thread in the pictures forum.

You could try and send him a pm/email message and see if you get a response.

You could also contact Jim here and see if he still has the kit, as he's contemplating parting out his LT after some body damage again.


NO. NO. NO. I am not parting out the K - I'm parting out the older one - the boat anchor... Has ABS 1...

The K is in the shop - still. I took the fairing off the boat anchor to donate to the K - one of the mounts was broken. I had the original fairing fixed - in hopes that I'll never need it.

I can measure all the parts for the backrest kit.
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2016 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, ok. thanks for the clarification there Jim.
I was hoping the K would live on......

See you soon.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Jim
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 1:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep - it lives on. It's got miles to go before I sleep...
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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Corkboy
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Aug 2013
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Location: Cork, Ireland

PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2016 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

N41EF wrote:
If you want to fix yours, you could use fiberglass cloth (Uni-directional) and then glass in an aluminum bar to give it a little more strength. Then a light sanding and flat black spray paint to cover it.

I'd do both of them and fill in the hollow portion on the back side of both of them.

I have the glass on hand, let me know I can mail you enough in an envelope.


Thanks for the kind offer.
As I have aluminium bar to hand, as well as epoxy and mat (from my other pastime of building boats), I think I'll go that route first.

I was going to cut out a groove (using a multitool) on the back side and slot in the aluminium bar there, then fill in the hollow portion, embedding the bar. This should only require the cutting of a section out of each of the lattice pieces that are on the underside.

As it would be recessed into the hollow portion, it should give the required strength.

And thank as well Jim for the offer. I'll get back to you if I need the measurements.

I'll document it here for reference to anyone else who has the issue.
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'87 K100RS 0140995 (Gone)
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RobBowker
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Joined: 16 Oct 2014
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Location: Oxfordshire, UK

PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 12:14 pm    Post subject: Cheaper and nastierer Reply with quote

OK, I looked down on the far part of my bike this morning and spotted a crack in my '98LT. I don't right now have the patience or the means of executing anything as elegant as the preceding ironmongery but I thought I'd have nothing to lose by trying out a process I have used before in other circumstances.

Having lasted 19 years, I think the BMW design using the materials they have isn't really all that bad. The previous owner had a pillion but I don't and the extra leverage as a backrest may have started the failure before my ownership. Who knows the internal stresses of a bit of cheap plastic? Anyway, I was extremely reluctant to cut away the lattice so I could insert a steel member and fix it in place somehow. The lattice hadn't failed, just its junction with the spar - same place as others have experienced.



I used a 2-part epoxy, in this case Araldite Metal - it is what I had. JB Weld is a popular equivalent. So there was something for the epoxy to hang onto, and to reinforce it, I made a small tab of aluminium with curves and chamfers in most of the right places. Not a perfect fit but close enough - epoxy will fill the voids.





To increase the surface area and mechanical strength (such as it is), I drilled the tab before degreasing both metal and roughed-up (emery paper) plastic.





I know, not a pretty sight. At the time of writing, the epoxy still has another few hours to cure completely. I made a jig and used a house brick to apply a small amount of pressure needed to close the fracture completely though it wasn't enough of a gaping crack to get any real amount of epoxy deeply into.

Naturally, I'll be reporting back on the efficacy of this. Total time taken, about 2hrs.

NOTE: As well as the weight of the top box, the load usually comprises 8 bottles of beer and a loaf of bread or, on days of heightened sobriety, a small backpack with waterproofs, camera and binoculars for a day's birdwatching. I have already removed the speakers from the backrest but I think now it may be time to ditch the stupidly heavy backrest itself - and then figure out a way of beautifying it.
_________________
1998 K1100LT SE
1995 Honda NTV 650 P (now sold)
1986 BMW R80RT TIC (the money pit - sold)
1981 CX500B (sold)
1981 Honda C70 (sold)
1981 Honda C90 (written off on a gravelly bend!)
1960s BSA Bantam D7 (never did get it running)
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 12, 2017 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As an addition to this thread, I see the weaknesses that Drake warned me about.

I had fabricated a rear mount on my '92 K-RS for an auxiliary fuel tank but it had a metal fatigue failure 1/2 way through a 1500 mile/24 hour ride.

After asking on here about using an LT rack for a new mount, Drake convinced me that it isn't very sturdy- especially for a fuel tank. I guess I now see visual proof.
He did suggest a Reynolds rack (steel, not composite material) and I found a good used one. Very sturdy, but of little use for the odd shape of the bottom of the LT box.

It is very solid and was up to the task last September when I rode east coast to west coast in under 2 days and then back east again. No problems.
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RobBowker
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Joined: 16 Oct 2014
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Location: Oxfordshire, UK

PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 5:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a feeling my fix is under-engineered both chemically and structurally. I think the plastic may be polythene and not easily bondable. Now considering a backing plate to reinforce the strut at that point, screwed or riveted through the plastic.
_________________
1998 K1100LT SE
1995 Honda NTV 650 P (now sold)
1986 BMW R80RT TIC (the money pit - sold)
1981 CX500B (sold)
1981 Honda C70 (sold)
1981 Honda C90 (written off on a gravelly bend!)
1960s BSA Bantam D7 (never did get it running)
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Corkboy
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Aug 2013
Posts: 81
Location: Cork, Ireland

PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2017 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RobBowker wrote:
I have a feeling my fix is under-engineered both chemically and structurally. I think the plastic may be polythene and not easily bondable. Now considering a backing plate to reinforce the strut at that point, screwed or riveted through the plastic.


You beat me to it. I was going to suggest that your fix wouldn't hold. There is a huge amount of leverage on that area.

My fix cracked through the epoxy, so I had to resort to drilling and bolting two bolts through the plastic and encased aluminium bar. That solved the problem.

So, yes, a backing plate with bolts or rivets would do it. But I'd suggest bolts with a fairly thick diameter. Rivets may not have the strength.

I can get pictures if you wish, but I'd say you have it in hand.
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'87 K100RS 0140995 (Gone)
'97 K1100LT 0188024 (Gone)
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