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Replacing Front ABS Sensor

 
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 6:31 pm    Post subject: Replacing Front ABS Sensor Reply with quote

My clymers manual is not very helpful here. It simply says, "disconnect the electrical wire from the wiring harness." Hmmm, does anyone know where the front ABS sensor wire connects into the harness? I'm assuming it's up under that tank someplace and I will need to remove the tank to do this.
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'93 K1100LT, '89 R100GS
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
Posts: 406
Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you follow the wire up the left fork leg, the wire is tie wrapped to the front brake line that goes up under the headlight. On a LT you have to remove the black plastic flap under the headlight and the connector is there (or was on my '93. You can get to it from below.
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2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

N41EF wrote:
If you follow the wire up the left fork leg, the wire is tie wrapped to the front brake line that goes up under the headlight. On a LT you have to remove the black plastic flap under the headlight and the connector is there (or was on my '93. You can get to it from below.


My bike is an early 93 with the ABS1. I can trace that wire up through a grommet along the brake line, but then it goes over the frame and appears to dive back. As far as I can feel it with my fingers, I can't feel any connector.

I'm still looking for a replacement sensor, but trying to work out how much of a job it will be to replace it. I really don't mind the ABS not working, but the flashing lights drive me nuts after a while.
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N41EF
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2014
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Location: Aiken, SC

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replacing it is easy, just need a feeler gage to measure space to ABS ring. It's just the plug and re the wrap everything. You can slide the tank back without removing it to get to the harness under the tank.

All things equal I'd rather have ABS and not need it, than need it and not have it.

Have you looked on eBay for a used sensor?
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2014 R1200RT Water Cooled
2001 R1100S Light
1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)
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Mike d
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Joined: 19 Feb 2010
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Location: Daventry UK

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It only takes five minutes to remove the tank, then you will be more able to see where the cable is routed, rather than trying to do it by feel.

Mike
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Jnclem
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Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the feedback. It takes me more than five minutes just to remove the left side tupperware and the seat. Smile

If I remove the tank completely, do I need to depressurize the system before disconnecting the fuel lines?
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Mike d
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Joined: 19 Feb 2010
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By left side Tupperware, I assume you just mean the side panel, and not any of the fairing or pockets?

Maybe I've just had more practice at taking the tank off.

People do suggest to de-pressurise the system, but if the bike hasn't run for a while it shouldn't matter.

Hope you haven't got a full tank Rolling Eyes

Mike
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Jnclem
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Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought I would need to remove the left lower fairing and knee pad to get to the fuel lines. And yes, I have a nearly full tank. I plan to go run most of that out before I begin though.

I'm used to my airhead, where I can just turn off the taps to take the tank off. Will this thing empty itself out when the fuel line is disconnected?
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N41EF
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Joined: 23 Mar 2014
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You shouldn't have to remove the tank all the way. Pull both side covers, open the seat to the stop, remove the 2 C-clips from the rear tank posts, then lift up the rear and slide the tank back. You can slide it back quite a ways without removing the lines or electrical connections. There are two fuel lines on the left side of the tank, and two vent/overflow lines on the right side. There is one electrical connector on the back right corner of the tank.

Place a towel under the seat to where the tank will sit to keep from chipping the paint on the tank.
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1993 K1100LT. Nissan Ice Blue.(Gone)
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Jnclem
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 07 Jul 2015
Posts: 64
Location: Gunnison, CO.

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had the tank pulled back before for accessing the radiator cap and a few other things. I'll definitely try it that way first. Again, I just don't know yet how far back the connection is. I'm guessing the part I ordered should be here next week, Wednesday or so. I'll pull it apart then. I'm still riding it every day although the morning temps are dropping. Got to get every mile possible in before it starts snowing.
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