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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA
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 Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 1:51 am Post subject: |
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| Moaf_n_jug wrote: | | So would that also mean that I have to get a new tank as well? |
No. The tank is aluminum so it won't rust. It can be cleaned out and used. (I've brought several K bikes back to life and have dealt with this before.)
The one possible issue is that although aluminum does not corrode like steel, the welds along the bottom seams of the tank can degrade if water sits in the bottom of the tank for too long. Once you get it running, check for possible leaks along the lower edges of the tank on both sides near the rear.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Moaf_n_jug
Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Jun 2016
Posts: 29
Location: Rapid city, SD
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 1:54 am Post subject: |
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| Ok. Will do. To get the tank off so I have to take the whole front air jammer type thing off? |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 2:08 am Post subject: |
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No.
Takie the seat off.
Check for a circlip on the posts on each rear corner of the tank. (sometimes people don't put them back) Remove those clips, lift the rear of the tank a few inches and pull it back.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Moaf_n_jug
Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Jun 2016
Posts: 29
Location: Rapid city, SD
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 2:11 am Post subject: |
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| Awesome. Thanks a million man. What's the box just under the tank? Has a lid on it with two clips to open it but I can't with the tank on? It hums when I hit the caution switch. Don't know why. Lol. |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 2:27 am Post subject: |
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Relay box.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 5:14 am Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | No.
Takie the seat off.
Check for a circlip on the posts on each rear corner of the tank. (sometimes people don't put them back) Remove those clips, lift the rear of the tank a few inches and pull it back. |
Don't forget to unclip the power supply multipin plug that goes to the fuel pump and fuel level gauge. This is at the right side of the frame, either lying loose or more correctly should be clipped onto a support. If you forget you will be left with a tank in your arms and no way to completely free it from the bike.
The tank corrosion is not limited to the bottom seams, I had a K100RS years ago where the corrosion extended about 1" up from the seam on the left side about where the tank molding was shaped to fit into line with the seat. All that was keeping the fuel from leaking was the thickness of the paint!
In UK there are thoughts that inclusion of methanol into the fuel will propogate the corrosion even more, because methanol will dilute with water and being heavier, will sink to the bottom of the tank there to quietly and un-noticed, nibble away at the metal.
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS
Last edited by Grunter on Sun Jun 05, 2016 5:21 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 5:19 am Post subject: Draining fuel |
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| Moaf_n_jug wrote: | | Well it works. I drained the fuel (as much as I could) and then put new in and tried to see if it would turn over but nothin. Now when I flip the caution switch down towards me it hums from a box under tank. I think it's he fuel pump not being able to pump and there is a wire getting hot that's got a big round screw like attachment to it. Any ideas? Mouse chew a wire? |
If you remove the whole filler cap (4 screws around the top) you will be able to drain all the fuel out of the tank by turning the tank upside down.
When replacing the screws make sure the threads are clean and dry then lightly coat them with anti sieze grease (copper based) but do not apply a lot of pressure when tightening them. The threads are very fine and will strip very easily (Been there and done that!). If the cap assembly is not screwed down evenly with a full tank it will without doubt leak past the seal.
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS |
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Moaf_n_jug
Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Jun 2016
Posts: 29
Location: Rapid city, SD
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 10:18 am Post subject: |
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| well the bike should still turn over even if the pump isn't going shouldn't it? |
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3119
Location: Central Iowa, USA
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 10:35 am Post subject: |
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With all of the safety circuits closed, yes it should.
The kill switch has to be centered, the side stand has to be up.
The transmission has to be in neutral, or the clutch pulled in.
All of this will then allow power to the start button to power the starter relay in the relay box.
Make sure that you have a really good charged up battery, or a set of jumper leads connected to a good battery. If you try to turn over one of these K's with a really weak battery, it is possible(many have had it happen) that the starter relay contacts will stick closed from the "low voltage/high current".
_________________
Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.) |
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Moaf_n_jug
Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Jun 2016
Posts: 29
Location: Rapid city, SD
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 10:37 am Post subject: |
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| Ahhhhhhhh. Side stand up. That's all I was missing. I'm going to go try it. Thanks again and again! |
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Moaf_n_jug
Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Jun 2016
Posts: 29
Location: Rapid city, SD
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 10:39 am Post subject: |
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| The battery pins my 10v checker so I know it at least has 10 volts. |
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Jim
Site Admin
Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3841
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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10 volts is too low for these bikes - don't fry your starter.
Make sure the battery is well charged, and clean any connectors you've unplugged. It's actually a good idea to unplug and clean all the connectors you can see and access.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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Meh, I've started many Ks at 10V. Have never fried a starter relay.
That said, I know my that bikes will usually startup after only a few spins. I probably wouldn't try it on a bike that hadn't run for ten years though. A full charge is much preferable.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Moaf_n_jug
Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Jun 2016
Posts: 29
Location: Rapid city, SD
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| Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:03 am Post subject: |
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| I'm going to jump it with my car very quickly. I just want to hear the motor move and then I'm done. I'm going to take it into the bmw dealer in sturgis and have them go threw the whole thing. I'm not good with wires and fuel injection and blah blah blah. I'm 98% sure it's going to need a fuel pump because it's not pre-pressurizing and probably needs the breaks tuned and abs and all that. But if I can hear the motor move I will have motivation to get it in. Thanks you guys for all the help. I'll fill you in when I try to jump it. I bought that battery brand new last year but I haven't had it on a trickle or anything so I'm sure it's a little low. I went with the bmw gel cell that was originally in it. (At least that's what they told me) so my fingers are crossed that it will live. |
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England
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| Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 2:41 am Post subject: Fuel Pump |
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It is a bit of a mystery one with the fuel pump. My K11 does run for a couple of seconds but the one on my K75 does not. I have covered at least 20000 miles on the K75 so I know there isn't a problem. I suspect that when the motor is turned off it never de-pressurises. The performance has never altered and the fuel consumption remains as good as it ever was.
If you have to buy a new fuel pump, get the Bosch part number off the pump body and go to an Audi car dealer because they will be able to sell you a pump with the same number for approximately 60% of the BMW bike price. I have not had to do so but I know of people in my circle of biking friends who have.
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 5:00 am Post subject: |
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K75s and K100s do not pre-pressurize the fuel system like K110s do. The fuel pump on a K75 or K100 only gets power when the engine is turning. And no, their fuel systems do not stay pressurized. 15 minutes after turning the bike off the pressure in fuel system has dissipated.
MNJ: See if you can find an independent mechanic. BMW dealers are very expensive. The fact that they are a BMW dealer means little when it comes to old Ks as most, if not all, of their shop employees have probably never even worked on an old K and only have training/experience on newer BMW models.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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| Back to top |
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3119
Location: Central Iowa, USA
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| Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 7:02 am Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: |
MNJ: See if you can find an independent mechanic. BMW dealers are very expensive. The fact that they are a BMW dealer means little when it comes to old Ks as most, if not all, of their shop employees have probably never even worked on an old K and only have training/experience on newer BMW models. |
+1 on that....
Or maybe a close forum member that could help.
Cant say about the Sturgis dealer, though I've been there once(right Duck), but don't be surprised if they don't want to work on it. I've heard(inter-net hear-say so take it for what it is worth) some dealers won't even look at a bike if it is over 10yrs old.
_________________
Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.) |
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Moaf_n_jug
Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Jun 2016
Posts: 29
Location: Rapid city, SD
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| Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 9:48 am Post subject: |
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| Hahahaha. Ok. Well I'll check for independent guys around first. |
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 369
Location: North East England
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| Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 5:35 pm Post subject: Fuel Pump |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | K75s and K100s do not pre-pressurize the fuel system like K110s do. The fuel pump on a K75 or K100 only gets power when the engine is turning. And no, their fuel systems do not stay pressurized. 15 minutes after turning the bike off the pressure in fuel system has dissipated.
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Thanks for that, so everything is normal. I had wondered.
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS |
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Moaf_n_jug
Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Jun 2016
Posts: 29
Location: Rapid city, SD
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| Posted: Thu Jun 16, 2016 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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| So I tried finding an independent motorcycle repair and had no luck for my bike. I took it to sturgis and they haven't actually gone threw everything yet but just kind of eyeballed it and said that the wire that's shorting on the left side of the seat might need to be replaced. The whole harness. And they were saying something like 400ish just for the harness. It's a round plug zip tied to the frame under the seat on the left side. One of the wires is getting hot from either a short or mouse or something. Anyways, can anyone tell me what that harness is for and if they are actually 400 for a new one? |
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