K11 Owners Group

[Grunter]

As you will know there are two levels of heat depending on the position of the switch. Where does this level control come from? the switch itself or via resistor somewhere in wiring loom
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS

[Flying Duck]

The low circuit goes through an orange resistive wire. I would advise you not to use the low setting for any extended period of time. The extra power heats up the orange wire and has been known to melt the insulation off of that wire and cause shorts or, in extreme cases, a fire under the tank.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Jim]

Drake - you posted awhile back about installing a flasher unit on the low temp side. Did that work long term?
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

[Flying Duck]

A flasher relay? NFW. That is SOOO low tech.

I install PWMs (pulse width modulators) that generate a square power wave of varying width and give me fully adjustable heated grips.

RS:




LT:



The monitor LEDs above the knobs are hooked into the output and grow brighter as the output power increases. Also makes the knobs easier to find in the dark.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[Grunter]

I have found out that the supply to the grips comes from a single wire to a 4 pin multi plug (brown on my bike) and loop around to one of the other pins.

This wire is not copper but a metalic compound with a high resistance (I have read 10 Ohms = low power 4 Ohms High power) which go to the black/green live cables. The earth (ground) wires and the live feedto the grips then feed up to the grips themselves. The actual power is controlled through the switch and the resistor wires.
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS

[Flying Duck]

The culprit is the orange wire under the tank. I don't think the orange wire from the switch is resistive but the one it connects to under the tank is the one that can overheat.

Been there, done that on my 93 LT - which is what inspired me to replace the factory circuitry with a PWM.

The guy I was with when the smoke started coming out from under the tank said he'd never seen anyone remove a tank as quickly as I did.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[old guy old bike]

Same deal with my '93. I purchased a new harness from the dealer and simply never use the low setting.
Jeff
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1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods

[Flying Duck]

Some people just snip the orange wire on the back of the switch to disable the low setting.

Probably the simplest way to avoid the problem.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[John Clauss]

I am glad this thread came up. I will often switch between high and low depending on the need. Usually start with high, once they get cooking turn them to low, and when my hands start to chill bump it back up to high. I will change that practice.

I really like your set up duc, any chance that you will sell a kit for that?

John
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1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al

[Flying Duck]

[John Clauss]

Thanks for the link. Usually me and flowing electrons do not get along, but I think I will give this one a try!
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al