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John Clauss
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 04 Apr 2003
Posts: 732
Location: Robesonia, PA
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 Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:05 pm Post subject: Fork seals |
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My right side fork is puking oil pretty badly and I think it is time for new seals. I have read the manual and it seems to be pretty straight forward, but what I wanted to know if I really need tool 31 3 610 or can I use something else. It looks like it is just something to pry against so you are not prying on the fork slider, correct?
Also which parts should I just flat out plan on replacing, the manual says to inspect the "plain bush" but I hate to have to get stuff in the middle of a job. Thanks in advance.
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1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6
It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al |
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA
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| Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2015 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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Just my .02, pull the whole fork out of the tripple tree so you can bench it to open it up.
After you pull the upper out of the lower you can pull the seal how ever you can get it out.
At this point you can inspect the slider bushings, depending on the miles you may want to plan on replacing them anyway and be ahead of the curve and save time in the long run.
with the new bushings in place, put the upper into the lower assy, THEN install the seal--sliding it down over the upper slider from the top.
This way you are guaranteed to not muck up the seal.
Some have been able to remove the fork lower, replace the seal and then slide the lower back onto the upper while still in the mount, but I've had 2 sets of seals fail on me by doing it this way, as some little part of the seal inner lip gets folded under when trying to slide it over the brass bushing. It then will eventually leak again.
Also, spend the extra and buy the OEM seals from BMW. The generics on e-bay and such don't work. BTDT.
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Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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Corkboy
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 26 Aug 2013
Posts: 81
Location: Cork, Ireland
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| Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 4:50 am Post subject: |
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| Scott_Anderson wrote: | Just my .02, pull the whole fork out of the tripple tree so you can bench it to open it up.
After you pull the upper out of the lower you can pull the seal how ever you can get it out.
At this point you can inspect the slider bushings, depending on the miles you may want to plan on replacing them anyway and be ahead of the curve and save time in the long run.
with the new bushings in place, put the upper into the lower assy, THEN install the seal--sliding it down over the upper slider from the top.
This way you are guaranteed to not muck up the seal.
Some have been able to remove the fork lower, replace the seal and then slide the lower back onto the upper while still in the mount, but I've had 2 sets of seals fail on me by doing it this way, as some little part of the seal inner lip gets folded under when trying to slide it over the brass bushing. It then will eventually leak again.
Also, spend the extra and buy the OEM seals from BMW. The generics on e-bay and such don't work. BTDT. |
What he said!
Just after finishing replacing my left one (as I had done the - put seal in and then fit slider- method that meant the seal leaked within 1k miels.
I used no special BMW tools.
This time, I used the method above, and took out the old seal with ease, with a seal removal tool (see the product review sub-forum)
When you have the old or new seals, take one to your local diy store and find a length of pipe that will fit over the seal inner lip, but be smaller than the seal outer diameter, and use that to tap the new seal home when you slide it down the forks.
I found a rainwater downpipe that fit perfectly.
And did anyone say gaiters!
When you put in gaiters, still put on the dust seals otherwise any water that does get in will pool by the seals as they are lower than the outer fork legs.
And since I'm on the subject, people have different methods of getting the circlips out, that are just above the seals. My method that worked for me.
Get two small flatbladed screwdrivers.
Use one to get under the lip of the circlip (one end slopes into the grove in the slider, so you can get a bit of leverage. - you'll see it when you're there)
Once you get it out of the groove and it will come up above the groove, put the blade of the second screwdriver into the exposed groove below it. This allows you to work the circlip out slowly without the possibility of it slipping back into the groove.
A small pliers with a bend on the jaws is also handy for grabbing the circlip and helping twist it out.
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'08 K1200GT
'87 K100RS 0140995 (Gone)
'97 K1100LT 0188024 (Gone)
'08 Transalp 700 (Gone) |
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philosophicalzombie
Brick Rider
Joined: 03 Jun 2013
Posts: 46
Location: Mariposa CA
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| Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2015 9:56 am Post subject: |
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I'm doing the same work when my parts arrive from Max tomorrow. Does anyone have the exact measurement for the DIY pipe tool? I'd like to pick that up before tearing the forks down. Thanks.
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Blake
Mariposa, CA
1993 K1100RS Mystic Red |
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