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Headlamp exchange ???
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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Posts: 982
Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 12:47 pm    Post subject: Headlamp exchange ??? Reply with quote

Good afternoon all... ( on this plain 'ol miserable day just a few weeks away from HM-VI )

After chopping access to my bikes through a mountain of ice on Easter Sunday, I've since been busy getting ready for the ride south to HM-VI and have been checking to see that I have the proper replacement bulbs to carry with me... BUT then it occurred to me that IF my headlamp burns out while on the 'night phase' of any ride, I will be entirely screwed !! On the K1100 there is simply NO WAY to pull the old bulb and replace the new, without a complete front end fairing disassembly !! What a great design BMW engineers have inflicted upon us with the "K"...eh? By comparison...I can do anything to my 1976 R100/7 ( day or night ) with only a minimum toolset, minimum 'on board' survival parts, a flashlight, and decades long knowledge of the R100 machine !! When riding the "K" however, looks I'll just have to take up residence wherever the lamp happens to fail !

Good luck all........// Ernie in NH
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drikko
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Joined: 20 Nov 2009
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Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure about the LT but on the RS if you take off the right hand fairing cover bit between the fairing and the tank and the steering fully to the right you can reach the bulb with a bit of practise and dexterity you can change the bulb. Try it a few times at home now before you leave. I know as I've done it, but it may well be different with the LT. Once you've mastered it, it only takes a few minutes.

BTW get the uprated bulbs ie Narva have a +120% one now and it's awesome. The +100% phillips ones are great too.
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Tim (Midland Section)
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's easier on the LT, I do it with the steering fully right, no tools required.
Simply a feel yer way around the job. Find socket, pull off. find rubber, pull off, Note which way up is top. Find two paperclip like wires, squeeze together, hinge up, grab bulb, remove. Note which way up, put new bulb in hand, same orientation, jiggle it a bit to locate. pull spring down, clip into place. Assembly then reverse of removal. In emergency put rubber in pocket & fit that in daylight.
Some people have been known to do this by putting their hand up from below, but IMHO tis easier to be standing, rather than stretching on a cold soggy road.

Three tips:- a) Practice in a well lit garage.
b) Tis easier if you are Left Handed.
c) A head torch helps to get you in the right area & to have a gander at what you are feeling for.

I know "many hands make light work" but there ain't room for two on an LT unless you're a girly.

Bloody hell, I'm agreeing with Drikko Laughing
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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Posts: 982
Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Confused Confused Confused

Hi Tim,,, Hi Drikko...

Hey... thanks for the input re the headlamp exchange... BUT I have to say Tim, you must have worked for a contortionist if you have done this successfully !! The best I have been able to do, is to barely touch the rubber boot with a finger-tip ! Perhaps if I had arms like "soda straws" I could reach in a bit farther, BUT its simply a 'no go' for me. I also have tried coming up from the bottom but thats just as bad ! Conclusion: Whenever/wherever the headlamp burns out, I will park it there on site with a "for sale" sign on the windscreen, and camp until a buyer comes by !! Current Philips lamp BTW is 4 years old, so hope I can make it to HM-VI and back without incident !

Have fun you two, and thanks again.....// Ernie in NH
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Kenji



Joined: 06 Nov 2009
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Location: Oakland, CA

PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drikko wrote:
Not sure about the LT but on the RS if you take off the right hand fairing cover bit between the fairing and the tank and the steering fully to the right you can reach the bulb with a bit of practise and dexterity you can change the bulb. Try it a few times at home now before you leave. I know as I've done it, but it may well be different with the LT. Once you've mastered it, it only takes a few minutes.

This is my experience as well. I don't even need to remove any fairing pieces on my RS.
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whyoldbill
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Joined: 12 Jun 2006
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Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie-NH wrote:
Whenever/wherever the headlamp burns out, I will park it there on site with a "for sale" sign on the windscreen, and camp until a buyer comes by !!


Hey Ernie, back when I had my '82 Aspencade (which was notorious for blowing headlamps) I figured out a circuit using 2 relays and 2 SPST switches that would let me run my running lights normally, or when "armed" would magically turn on my running lights in the event that my headlamp failed. If you're interested I'll sit down and figure it out again and send you the diagram. If you aren't the electronics tinkerer type, I'll whip one up for you for the cost of parts...
only catch is, you have to have running lights and a place for the 2 switches (I used small weatherproof toggles)

Bill
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grant93
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 238
Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drikko wrote:


BTW get the uprated bulbs ie Narva have a +120% one now and it's awesome. The +100% phillips ones are great too.


Gidday,

Drikko - Many thanks for the heads up on the Narva bulb, I will be getting one this week.

I just replaced the brittle old plastic bulb connection on at the headlight so I should do the complete job while in there.

Enjoy the weekend
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Last edited by grant93 on Fri Apr 12, 2013 6:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim (Midland Section) wrote:


Bloody hell, I'm agreeing with Drikko Laughing


scary for both of us!
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie, don't forget you have 2 filaments in that lamp. Not impossible for them both to burn out at the same time, but very improbable. If one goes you do have the 2nd one available..........

Yes I can get to mine as well without removing any body parts. Mine or the bike...... Laughing
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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Posts: 982
Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Hi Scott...

Improbable...yes !! But I have had both (in any one bulb) fail on my truck at one time or another...so it is possible. However, I WAS being a bit dramatic with the "camping scene" eh?

RE: ""..I can get to mine as well without removing any body parts. Mine or the bike.."", I have seen you Scott and you're no string-bean! I'll have to have a demonstration at HM 'cause' I cannot get into the right body position to access that headlight, no matter what !! So... ride safe...hope it does not snow on either of us.. and see you there !

Best regards.....// Ernie in NH
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 20 Nov 2009
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Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie, have you tried putting your beer down before reaching in behind the headlight?
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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
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Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2013 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

HEYYYYY Drikko..!

Have to say re the "beer"... I just buy the GIQ cans ( ie: Giant Imperial Quart) because I can tuck them under my arm while I work behind the fairing!! Having to hold a can in the hand conflicts with the cigarettes !!

Have fun 'down under' on land AND on the water !!

Best regards........// Ernie in NH
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sccommuter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 25 Oct 2011
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Location: Metromess, Tx

PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie,
I just happen to be upgrading my headlight wiring with an Eastern Beaver relay kit today and was able to get my bulb out as previously stated. However, it's much easier to work in there if you take the r/h box out ( only 4 screws). Look forward to meeting you at HM.


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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Posts: 982
Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey..."sccom",,,

Nice tip,,, Thanks !! Good luck with the lights, EB does a nice job, doesn't he ! See you at HM-VI..

Ride safe.....// Ernie in NH
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Jeff DiCarlo



Joined: 05 Jun 2011
Posts: 15
Location: Mass, USA

PostPosted: Mon May 06, 2013 4:57 pm    Post subject: Aux Lights Reply with quote

Many of us run auxiliary lights on our bikes for just this reason. If the headlight goes out, you have something to fall back on. But really good ones and you'll never notice if the headlight is on or not!
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wvoutpost
Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Feb 2012
Posts: 41
Location: Vienna, WV

PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay guys, help! I feel like an idoit.

Trying to change my headlamp bulb (low beam quit, assuming it is the bulb since high beam is good). Read the thread, have a Clymer and BMW service manual. Everything says "disconnect connector". I can reach it and grab it with my fingers. I pull as hard as I can, jiggle back and forth, and nothing. Doesn't move at all. Tried many times - no success. Is there a release catch on the connector? Any other tips?
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I tried to replace my lamp the 1st time I wasn't able to remove the connector either. The electrical connections had been loose and caused excess heat and deformed the plug.
I ended up cutting the wires, then remove the lamp from the housing.
I cut the melted plastic apart so I could remove the rubber boot for re-use with a new lamp.
Since I had cut out the old H4 female lamp connector, I had to splice in a new one. Easily available at the local auto parts store.
I also at the same time, installed a Easter Beaver Headlamp relay kit to help prevent the problem from happening again.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 18, 2013 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pull harder and wiggle more. Worst case see if you can wiggle a small screwdriver between the base of the bulb and the connector to pry it off - little at a time from each side.

These days when I DIY my own headlight relays, beef up the wiring and put in a high watt H4, I always use ceramic H4 connectors to avoid having heat issues. Before that I would use the heavy duty H4 connectors from Eastern Beaver.


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wvoutpost
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the advice guys. I think I'll wait until after the weekend to try again. Might be riding it with my wife. After that, I'll get it off one way or another. Might need those aftermarket connectors at that time!
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philosophicalzombie
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Joined: 03 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2013 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had my headlamp burn out on me at 10 pm last week en route to finding a hotel. The moon and the parking light and some slow cautious driving got me to a gas station where I changed in my spare. For my first time, I too couldn't get the connector off, and had to pull the whole assembly out to get two hands on it. After that it was easy going.

The bulb itself was broken and not just burned out. Is that normal?
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