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Bob T Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 11 Oct 2010 Posts: 120 Location: Carol Stream, IL
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Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 10:50 am Post subject: Removing ignition lock cylinder? |
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Anyone know how to remove the ignition lock cylinder?
I found information on how to remove the cylinders on the bags, gas cap and seat lock, but not the ignition.
Thanks! _________________ Bob T.
'96 K1100RS
'95 K1100RS - Totaled
'01 Triumph TT600
'83 Suzuki GS1100E |
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Tim (Midland Section) Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Apr 2005 Posts: 960 Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.
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Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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Yes:-
K1100/ possibly K100 & Others,
Ignition switch “How to”
This guide assumes some mechanical prowess & experience. The idea of the article is to help owners to tackle what at first seems untenable or prohibitively expensive. The job was started after the switch became unreliable electrically & the steering lock sometimes jammed. Total time: - About 2 1/2 hours.
1. You will need: - Allen Key set, 10mm ring spanner, 32mm socket, ratchet drive, electric drill, sharp 8mm bit, 2off 8mm x 30mm allen bolts or new lock security screws, watchmakers screwdriver, flat needle file, tweezers, paper, pen, tray, WD40, cotton buds, grease, big hammer, lump of soft wood approx 15”x 1”x 2” & a Clymer manual.
2. Remove handlebar cover, protect tank with a soft cloth, remove handlebars & lay on tank (not you, the bars).
3. Remove the chrome bar that retains the cables to the yoke.
4. Pull the cables away from the switch area & drill the bolt heads, pressing hard, so that the drill keeps cutting, otherwise the bolt will harden & become “a pig to drill”. My bolts had a depression in the top, which helped keep the drill central.
5. Remove the top yoke, by loosening the 4 clamp bolts & undoing the big nut in the centre. Then whilst holding the lump of wood under the yoke, hammer the wood smartly upwards. The yoke should move reasonably easily if all the clamp bolts are loose enough. Yoke removal is necessary as the lock is nearly five inches long.
6. Remove remains of drilled off bolts from lock.
7. At the bottom of the lock, find a small screw sealed with red paint. Scrape the paint away. Remove the screw completely, DO NOT lose it. Pull the white plastic switch assembly downwards from the bottom of the lock casting.
8. Gently release the cover clips to reveal the switch innards. Clean, regrease & reassemble.
9. Do not refit switch yet.
10. Sitting at a table & in good light, work over the tray, to catch any escaping wards (brass lock bits) & small springs.
11. About 1” down the casting from the key end of the lock, there is a small hole. With the key in the ON position, push the watchmakers screwdriver into said hole & pull the key and the lock barrel out together.
12. Draw a diagram of the lock barrel to show the positions of each ward, remove the key gently, noting that the wards move as the key is extracted. Lift the wards out one at a time, noting the stamped number on the side of them & which slot they occupied.
13. Clean & lightly file the flat face of the wards to remove any burrs. Clean barrel, reassemble, leaving the bottom one (a different shape from the rest) out & lightly spray with WD40. Insert key, ensure that the wards move to be level with the barrel. If not, you have them out of order.
14. Slightly spread the legs of the omitted one & re-fit, when pushed in it should stay down.
15. If all is well, put the barrel back in, turn the key to steering lock position, then push the screwdriver into the hole to release the last ward. This one holds the barrel in place. The barrel MUST NOT come out when the key is removed. Check for normal operation.
16. Grease the mechanism in the bottom of the lock.
17. Now refit the switch into the casting, lining up the odd shaped pin with the hole & the plastic tang with the slot.
18. Check for correct electrical operation.
19. Offer lock to yoke, then refit yoke, ensuring that ALL the cables that should be, are between the fork legs.
20. Fit new bolts to lock.
21. As ever, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
22. Wash hands & pat yourself on the back for your achievement & a saving of about £100 in labour charges. _________________ Regards Tim,
Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485 |
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Bob T Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 11 Oct 2010 Posts: 120 Location: Carol Stream, IL
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Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 2:46 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Tim...
Do you know if it is possible to reach the release hole and remove the barrel without removing the ignition from the bike? _________________ Bob T.
'96 K1100RS
'95 K1100RS - Totaled
'01 Triumph TT600
'83 Suzuki GS1100E |
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Tim (Midland Section) Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 08 Apr 2005 Posts: 960 Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.
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Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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Can't remember, I wrote that in 2005 for the UK BMW club Journal.
Gut feeling is No, as I wouldn't have done all that if it wasn't necessary. _________________ Regards Tim,
Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
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Bob T Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 11 Oct 2010 Posts: 120 Location: Carol Stream, IL
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Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 4:19 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks again, Tim.
I'll post up if I find out. _________________ Bob T.
'96 K1100RS
'95 K1100RS - Totaled
'01 Triumph TT600
'83 Suzuki GS1100E |
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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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23. Get beer _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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Bob T Mad Brick Rider

Joined: 11 Oct 2010 Posts: 120 Location: Carol Stream, IL
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Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2013 5:50 pm Post subject: |
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| drikko wrote: | | 23. Get beer |
Generally for me, that is number 1.  _________________ Bob T.
'96 K1100RS
'95 K1100RS - Totaled
'01 Triumph TT600
'83 Suzuki GS1100E |
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