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Coolant Change

 
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grant93
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 238
Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 11:06 pm    Post subject: Coolant Change Reply with quote

Gidday,

Today a looked into changing the coolant on my bike for the first time, I looked about on the internet, read up my clymers manual and then poked about on the bike.

In the manual it shows only a K100 with a picture of a the small drain hole on the pump, I then went to the supplementary pages for the K1100 update at the rear of the manual and no difference was mentioned but "do this do that" etc and there was no mention that the K1100 does not have a drainage screw like the K100 that I could see? well I could not see one on my bike? so I just undone the lower radiator hose instead and let it pour out.

Is this the only way to drain it or is there a drainage screw on a K1100?

I then removed the overflow tank and completed cleaned it out as there was a dirty scum smeared on the inside, probably never had good clean out before in it life time I would say.

Anyway all went well, new green coolant is back in it and thats another thing ticked off the list..
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1994 K1100RS
1981 R100RS
1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 1:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The drain is theoretically the temperature sensor on the pump, but it is much easier (and safer, you may break the sensor) to simply pull the hose that goes to the pump.
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94 K1100LT
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grant93
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 238
Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gidday,

Yep I thought so...

Is very slow to refill the radiator, just have to dribble it in? is this a normal procedure?

Cheers Grant
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1994 K1100RS
1981 R100RS
1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

grant93 wrote:
Gidday,

Yep I thought so...

Is very slow to refill the radiator, just have to dribble it in? is this a normal procedure?

Cheers Grant

Yes. Use a funnel if you have one or just cut a plastic bottle to make one.
When you're done press on the hoses to remove air and tip with coolant.
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robleyd
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Joined: 23 Jul 2009
Posts: 398
Location: Murbko, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually disconnect the top radiator hose on the left side, fill until it starts to overflow there, reconnect it and top up with a little hose squeezing to help the fill.
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Tim (Midland Section)
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Joined: 08 Apr 2005
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Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grant, have you had it running up to operating temperature? On mine there was no vent hole in the thermostat, therefore the system has an air lock in it until the thermostat opens, took me a LOT of bottom hose squeezing before the thermostat got enough hot water around it to clear. I drilled a 3/32" hole to make it easier to vent next time.
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grant93
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 238
Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gidday,

Thanks for the feedback and useful advice.

Yes I filled it via the radiator cap but nice a slow, just dribbled it in all 3 litres of it, then added 400mls to the overflow tank, started the bike for a minute then turned it off and checked the level in the radiator and it was still the same, then I restarted the bike and let it come up to full temp, the fan kicked in just before the red section on the gauge as it is supposed to, the temp then went back to half with the fan on and bike running, I then shut it off and left it overnight.
This morning I went out, undone the radiator cap and the fluid was right at the top.

All is well I would think.
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1994 K1100RS
1981 R100RS
1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10086
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to think the hose draining thing was a good idea. Until last spring when my 94 K1100RS with about 50k blew the hose about 500 miles later:




And, since it was Monday, (when BMW dealers are closed) left me in a parking lot in Santa Monica implementing a ghetto repair with some cheapass radiator hose tape from a nearby auto parts store:





Morals of story:

1)Your cooling system hoses are about 20 years old and subject to failure.

2) Messing with them is not a good idea.

3) Don't ride on Sunday or Monday.

4) Just drain the coolant from the temp sensor - and don't over-torque when putting it back in. DAMHIK.
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drikko
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Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:

3) Don't ride on Sunday or Monday.


Ah crap, I just organised to take Monday off from work to go for a long weekend ride. Now I'll have to cancel it.

Hang on, I'll take the Lav, it's air cooled and there aren't any dealers to be closed anyway so no diff Smile

This reminds me, I've never actually changed the coolant in the K, must make it a top priority. It has to be at least 10 year old coolant. Probably not good, but it never leaks or anything, never even needed topping up.
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Number 6
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Feb 2011
Posts: 481
Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:

4) Just drain the coolant from the temp sensor - and don't over-torque when putting it back in. DAMHIK.

-1
If you don't break it in the first place!
If the hose is in good condition and you handle it with care, it won't break. And I'd rather change the hose than have half a temperature sensor stuck in the water pump.
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grant93
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 238
Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 3:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gidday,
Hose came off easy, just used a wide blade blunt paint scraper to pry it back once the clamp was loosened..
Also the second time i flushed it i undone the top bracket that holds the radiator cap in place and then pulled the hose up just that little bit to straighten it out and lessen the blend in the hose, the new fluid went in quickly as the flow was more direct, once near the top i repositioned the cap to bracket, topped it up and ran bike back up to running temp to make fan come on... All is well!
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1994 K1100RS
1981 R100RS
1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au
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Sonu
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jan 2004
Posts: 396
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
I used to think the hose draining thing was a good idea. Until last spring when my 94 K1100RS with about 50k blew the hose about 500 miles later:

And, since it was Monday, (when BMW dealers are closed) left me in a parking lot in Santa Monica implementing a ghetto repair with some cheapass radiator hose tape from a nearby auto parts store:

Morals of story:

1)Your cooling system hoses are about 20 years old and subject to failure.

2) Messing with them is not a good idea.

3) Don't ride on Sunday or Monday.

4) Just drain the coolant from the temp sensor - and don't over-torque when putting it back in. DAMHIK.


I learned this the hard way. Got a coolant leak at the hose after my recent fluid change. Temp gauge pegged at 250 and warning light went on in instrument panel. I decided to pull off the road and have the bike towed home.

It took 3 attempts to seat the hose properly but Ziggy is back in action. I put it on the center stand and let the fan come on 3x to confirm that it was working properly. Going forward I will drain at temp sensor.

Thankfully, the ~10 miles I rode with the temp pegged does not seem to have damaged the engine.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7DvMMDvwVaq1puVLA

Sanjiv
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10086
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The temp gauge doesn't matter but when the idiot light in the cluster comes on it's a good idea to stop riding.

The idiot light comes on at 239F and in a properly working (non-leaking) system the radiator cap blows at 248F and you still haven't hurt the engine yet.

Note that if you don't have a tow available you can limp home if you pull the gas tank back and keep refilling with water but don't ride for any distance with the idiot light illuminated if you know there's a leak and not enough pressure to blow the cap.

I always carry Rescue Tape with me now. It's an excellent product for repairing a leaky rad hose.

https://www.rescuetape.com/
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
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Last edited by Flying Duck on Thu May 07, 2020 6:34 am; edited 1 time in total
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Sonu
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jan 2004
Posts: 396
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drake,

Got it thanks. Will add rescue tape before any long distance trips.

I've never had my bike towed & wanted to check out how a free tow works. Was only 10 mi from home. My AAA membership now gives tow up to 100 mi.

I'm just lucky that there is no damage to engine.

-s-
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Jim
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Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS

PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2020 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sonu - make sure you top up with blue anti-freeze - not green...
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3119
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2020 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim, I don't think the blue/green issues is quite as important today as it was 20+ years go.
Most all coolants now a days are Aluminum friendly, which was the big sticking issue back then.

The only one I would say absolutely don't mix is the GM orange(DexCool).

I remember back to HMII or HMIII when we made that roadside repair to Rydor's bike and didn't have anything available but the green....

Another point of issue is also to make sure to only use distilled water long term..... when you are on the side of a road even a creek source can get you home. But absolutely flush it out when you do get back home.
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Sonu
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jan 2004
Posts: 396
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2020 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys,

I use BMW coolant (blue) with 50% dilution with distilled water.

-s-
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1997 K1100LT "Ziggy" _GarminGPS_Corbin saddle_K Guards _Hyperlights_Fog lights_Eastern Beaver Relays_Cee Bailey_4"speakers_Michelin PR4's_MoS2_Spiegler lines_TPMS_VDO
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2020 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changed mine in the K1100RS today. I use Prestone and mix it at 60/40 distilled water/coolant since water has better thermal transfer than antifreeze.

And the green stuff tastes better. Laughing


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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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