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Phil's ride ends early- LT drivetrain problems
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sccommuter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 25 Oct 2011
Posts: 155
Location: Metromess, Tx

PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 4:35 pm    Post subject: Phil's ride ends early- LT drivetrain problems Reply with quote

Today was to be my day to take Phil on a ride and send him on his next journey. The rain over night had moved out, temps were cool and sky clearing.This is one of my favorite local rides, about 135 mi. with plenty of twisties, some sweepers and a few hairpin turns. Took route 28 out of Seneca up to Highlands, NC and stopped for gas. When pulling out of the station I get this grinding, whirring noise. I immediately grab the clutch and coast into a parking lot. Now, WTF was that I'm thinking. So, remove helmet and ear plugs so as to hear the noise better. Fire the bike up, in neutral, no noise. Grab the clutch and get plenty of noise. So, open up the anonymous book and call the closest person listed ( about 10 mi. away) got his voice mail. Call my riding buddy back home, he's in New York helping his daughter move. Call my neighbor, voice mail again. Folks, there isn't any bike shops for at least 50 miles, so I call the local tow company. While talking to the tow company, my neighbor returns my call. He's borrowed a trailer and is already on his way. When loading the bike the tow company owner sees us and stops to make sure we were in good shape and didn't need his services. Man. I like small towns. About this time the person from the anonymous book returns my call. He had just gotten home from Ohio on his bike and offered his help. I told him we were go to go and thanked him for returning my call. He told me to call anytime I was up that way and we'd take a ride together.
Now the fun begins, attempt the repair myself or take it to the shop? The easiest thing to do is write a check. The hardest is filling in the amount. I've gotta go back up into the surly skies tomorrow for 6-9 days, so I'll have time to think about it. Obviously the problem is clutch related. Any ideas beyond that?
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, how do you feel about tearing into it.
Have you got a place to be able to work on it. Some tools available or able to borrow.

With the bike on the center stand, put the trans in gear, engine off:
can you turn the rear wheel.
Try and listen real close to where the noises may be coming from.

You could be lucky enough for the drive shaft to have broken a u-joint, or stripped the splines on one end of the yoke.

Either way you are going to have to start at the rear and start removing parts going forward.

1st. the final drive and drive shaft. If it looks good with clean and crisp splines, then it's time to remove the transmission and look at the input splines there as well as the clutch disk.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
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"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
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Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

David,

If you have the space and some tools, (plus a bit of time) we could all lead you through some diagnosis and fix.

Scott already gave you some preliminary things to look at.

Let us know.

John
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sccommuter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 25 Oct 2011
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Location: Metromess, Tx

PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, using my trusty wooden dowel rod and old ears the sound seems to be towards the forward part of the swing arm (forward portion of drive shaft) when turning the wheel.. When I rock the rear wheel back and forth the clunk is very pronounced.
As far as space and tools, the garage is a little tight. I've got my 8 ft work bench and the 6 x 9 ft space the bike sits in, no lift. Tool wise, I've got your basic tools (i.e. sockets, box ends...) no specialty tools. Time is one thing I have plenty of.

David
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

David,

I did a clutch R&R on my first K11RS with basic tools and a floor jack but no other special equipment.

From your dowel diagnosis, it sounds like the front of your driveshaft has a bad U joint (not too bad) or a stripped transmission output shaft (a bit more involved).
Those two could be investigated with the bike on its centerstand. I have a thread about driveshaft R&R.
Even if the problem is deeper, you should remove the final drive (FD) and swingarm anyhow.

Let us know what you do and if you are doing the work yourself, let us know what you find.

John
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sccommuter
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Joined: 25 Oct 2011
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I've been studying my Clymer and have decided to give it a go myself. I'll never learn anything if I don't try. I'll by a new memory card for the camera and take lots of notes so I can put it back together. I won't be able to get started for several days, but I'll keep you updated. Thanks for the support.

David
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

David,

I am moving your thread to the tech section for more member attention.

John
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Stoked Steve
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Joined: 01 Sep 2004
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds a lot like my drive shaft failure. I was really lucky and found a used drive shaft on E-bay for $60! It was a bit of a project, but nothing too scary once you dive in.

We can walk (or stumble) you through it.

My thread on the issue....

http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6730&highlight=
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blue95lt
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Joined: 21 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 9:40 pm    Post subject: Grab clutch and noise? Scott,John Reply with quote

I dont know if he let the clutch out yet or not so, can he just have a bad Bering on the clutch arm? The small flat one behind the bellows on the clutch arm push rod ?
Is the bellows/boot ok there? Or is it bad and allowed the ball Bering to go bad? Just another thought. Keith
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sccommuter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 25 Oct 2011
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Location: Metromess, Tx

PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith,
The boot is in good shape. With the bike in neutral, no noise. As soon as I apply any pressure to the clutch handle the noise starts. So I never fully pulled the clutch in or put it in gear.
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blue95lt
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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 10:55 pm    Post subject: So why ? Reply with quote

Ok so you didn't put it in gear or let the clutch out so why put blame on the
U joints or things after that? Could it just be pilot bearing or clutch push rod
Problems?
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sccommuter
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keith,
Maybe I should clarify what I said. When the problem occurred I was in gear (1st) and rolling. Now, trying to diagnose the problem at home is when the noise occurs as I put pressure on the clutch handle. I follow your line of thinking and appreciate it.

David
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Mike d
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As well as the grinding noise, did you also lose drive?

Mike
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sccommuter
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

to be honest, I didn't try driving it once I got it stopped for fear of damaging it worse. The noise was just too expensive sounding for me to feel comfortable trying to drive it. I am able to roll the bike easily with the indicator showing 1st gear. Any thoughts on the risk of further damage if I do try?
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sccommuter wrote:
to be honest, I didn't try driving it once I got it stopped for fear of damaging it worse. The noise was just too expensive sounding for me to feel comfortable trying to drive it. I am able to roll the bike easily with the indicator showing 1st gear. Any thoughts on the risk of further damage if I do try?


So you can push the bike, engine off, hand off the clutch lever but in 1st gear??
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sccommuter
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PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep! Sad There is some noise and it doesn't roll as easily as in neutral, but it rolls.
Well, I'm heading for ATL to start my travels. I'll check in here when I can. Will start pulling it apart when I get back in town.
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sccommuter
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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, finally had some time to start taking it apart. Pulled the rubber boot from the FD and look what fell out.

right hand pivot bearing

spline on rear portion of drive shaft.



all other splines look OK. U-joints are tight. Inner retaining ring on forward rubber boot was laying loose in boot. Minimal grease on splines. However, I'm not convinced I've found the main problem. I can turn the drive shaft by hand while in gear. I'm afraid the problem lies further forward. Would it be a problem to start the bike as is and see if I still get the noise? What more do I have to do to pull the tranny and get a look at the clutch splines? I guess I need to pull it to lube it anyway.

Thanks for your input,
David
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whyoldbill
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Duck documented it here http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=332.0
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

David,

IMHO, starting it up isn't going to give you any further diagnosis. I would start to work my way forward to get to the clutch.

Being a '95, you have ABS II and need to disconnect the brake lines. Scott_Anderson has the scoop on this, both his bikes are ABS II and has done his.

IMPORTANT- a few months ago when I did my driveshaft R&R, my FD pivot bearings looked similar- some of the rollers were missing from the bearing and I found them in the flex boot. A new pair of roller bearings will run you a C note plus shipping. Give Tom Cutter http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html a call or email and get a set of his bushings as a better replacement- much more durable and no rollers to wander off. You can also get some Honda Moly paste from him.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

John
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sccommuter
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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my thinking on starting the bike was to see if the noise was gone and therefore coming from the section I've removed (FD, drive shaft) or it was still present. There by telling me I have more to look forward too. I've been reading Gwen's post about pulling her tranny and clutch. Kind of scary, but if I take my time and label I should be ok. What do you think of that rear spline? Replace? These 2 part drive shafts seem to only be sold as a set @$700 from BMW- OUCH!!
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