K11 Owners Group

[dave.thorburn]

Need help ! Duh !

Love this engineering. Using the instruction PDF from the site (wonderful) and some common sense, I have stripped everything and reached the point where the fork bridge is off. That's the upper one in case my terminology is wrong.

The next step is to remove the setting ring. It is locked on tight. I don't know if it is screwed on or just a push fit. Tried some light tapping with a hammer upwards, doesn't shift at all. So how do I get it off? (before I try the wrong thing and damage something.)

Its an 1100RS.

And, in anticipation of the next bit, is there going to be some easy trick to getting the bearing races out, or do I need to get the BMW tool for extracting?

Thanks in anticipation,
Dave

[SugarHillCTD]

Dave,

Enter "steering" in the search function at the top of the page. I did and it has lots of info. You might want to search in tech only. I remember Shog's husband doing it. Use Shoganai as the author.

Good luck.

John
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

[dave n]

What I have done is use a small Dremel grinding bit and notch the area

below the bearing race - two places - enough to get a long punch onto the

backside of race and drive same out.

Some times you will get lucky and find enough room left by factory

machining/casting to get a long punch onto race without doing any grinding.
_________________
Dave Norris KOG 248
1999 Cagiva Gran Canyon
1993 K1100LT w/Hannigan sidecar
2008 Suzuki DR650

[omarsbuddy]

I have Ed Korn's race removal tool. Bought it to use on my airhead. It works slicker 'n snot. I don't know if the K-bike races are the same, but if they are, you're more than welcome to borrow it.

edit - oops, I just saw that you're in New Zealand! Hell, you could probably make one cheaper and faster than I could get mine to ya!
_________________
Scot
'95 K1100LT

[kstones]

Hi; the adjustment ring is locked by the bolt in the top centre. Unscrew this and adjustment of the bearing or dismantling is easy. to adjust i loosen the top fork bridge bolts, not the bottom bridge ones, and do the adjust till easy movement but no play; then relock with the centre bolt and then retighten the fork bridge allen bolts. To take to bits fully remove the top adjust ring - the one with the knurles on it - and the forks and the bottom bridge will drop out providing you have released all the brake lines etc etc!! My steering was notchy so i dropped the forks enough to clean the races at the bottom and found they were in good condition, regreased them and reassembled, been fine since. It's that top centre bolt that had me foxed for a while too.
Good luck Tony.

[dave.thorburn]

Hi guys, and thanks for the help.

Finally figured it all out, especially that bit about the spacer, didn't make any sense to me for ages, since all it would do is lock the heaxgonal nut to the knurled nut using the locking tube and making it not fixed to the fork bridge.

I figured out what that was all about, and how to interpret the instructions in the link that is posted to http://www.largiader.com/bearings/

You lock the hexagonal nut to the knurled nut and locking tube nut so you can use the locking tube nut to tighten or slacken the knurled nut. By locking the set together but not locking to the fork bridge, you can apply the necessary torgue to the bearings (25N/m for new bearings and 12N/m for the final setting) using the locking tube nut. This way the bearings are set at a particular torgue.

Then undo nuts and tighten whole thing.

So the main reason for the spacer is to enable the correct torgue setting on the bearing.

Hope that helps people. If everybody else knows that, it's cool!

Dave