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seal mate

 
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SKEEZER



Joined: 23 Aug 2011
Posts: 17
Location: Strathmore AB Canada

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 2:17 pm    Post subject: seal mate Reply with quote

Yes , the boots or gaiters seem to be the ticket and I plan on installing them when the seal's are replaced.
I saw on a thread somewhere that the seals can be replaced without removing the forks from thje tripple tree, is that even possible?
I would remove them to install the gaiters anyway.
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m1ks
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 24 Sep 2009
Posts: 122
Location: Skye, Highlands

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not possible without cutting the seal, which would destroy the part before it was fitted.
With the bike on mainstand, back end weighted, front wheel off and drop one fork leg at a time you can (carefully), prise the old seal out and slide it up and off the stanchion then replace, however, I've done this and had them leak again almost straightaway, best to strip and clean everything.
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Mystic Red
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Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho

PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 9:38 pm    Post subject: Re: seal mate Reply with quote

SKEEZER wrote:
Yes , the boots or gaiters seem to be the ticket and I plan on installing them when the seal's are replaced.
I saw on a thread somewhere that the seals can be replaced without removing the forks from thje tripple tree, is that even possible?
I would remove them to install the gaiters anyway.


Yes,you can do it , no problem. Some say you have to pull from the triple tree. I've done it without removing without any probs.
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SKEEZER



Joined: 23 Aug 2011
Posts: 17
Location: Strathmore AB Canada

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 1:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks . Any Tips would be apprciated.
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
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Location: Livin' at Castle Anthrax, NH, USA

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The SEARCH feature is your friend.

Like this thread

http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6964&highlight=fork+seals


But I came up with this list when I searched "fork seals" specifying only the TECH forum. Many threads there with some good reading.

Good luck.

John
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SKEEZER



Joined: 23 Aug 2011
Posts: 17
Location: Strathmore AB Canada

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats the post I saw. Thanks it will help alot Very Happy
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m1ks
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Joined: 24 Sep 2009
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Location: Skye, Highlands

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So reading that you're still stripping the fork.
In that case what is the point in leaving the stanchion in the yokes? I fail to see the logic in that.
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 2863
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

m1ks wrote:
In that case what is the point in leaving the stanchion in the yokes?


Fewer fasteners to have to remove, and then retorque.
Less chance of dropping and galling the upper stantions.
Don't have to worry about "what height were they at when they came out"

I've replace the seals on both my bikes without removing the upper's from the tripple tree. You just have to be very careful when reinstalling the lowers so as not to damage the seals when installing. You just can't "slam-it-home".

And also NO those e-bay seals from "pyramid" absolutely will not work on the 16V K bikes. 1. they are too thick, and 2 the seal contact surface area is less than the original bmw(marzoochi) seals.
I tried to shave one set down to fit beneath the snap ring and they leaked in less than a year.
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drikko
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Joined: 20 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trust me, it's a hell of a lot easier to take the stanchion right out to work on them. Been there done that, I tried to leave them in there but ended up taking them out.
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m1ks
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 24 Sep 2009
Posts: 122
Location: Skye, Highlands

PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
m1ks wrote:
In that case what is the point in leaving the stanchion in the yokes?


Fewer fasteners to have to remove, and then retorque.
Less chance of dropping and galling the upper stantions.
Don't have to worry about "what height were they at when they came out"


Don't buy that at all, couple extra bolts on the yokes, there's a lot of fork leg, you'd have to be monumentally hamfisted to drop one AND damage the stanchion, what height worry? You do one at a time and either use the other as a guide or refit according to the book! PLUS you get to work on the whole leg in comfort, on a bench at decent height, easier to keep everything spotlessly clean during reassembly, all for the epic effort of undoing two or three more bolts. Each to their own sure, but I know which method I'd use.
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diethornig



Joined: 01 Feb 2012
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Location: Berlin, Germany

PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How's that? Can't get it right.
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