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Newby's guide to driveshaft R&R

 
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SugarHillCTD
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Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4124
Location: Sugar Hill, NH, USA

PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2011 9:59 pm    Post subject: Newby's guide to driveshaft R&R Reply with quote

Many folks here have lots of experience with all aspects in disassembly, repair and reassembly of K100/1100 bikes.

Some of us don't have that experience. So when I needed to inspect the driveshaft, I thought I would add to the Tech archives.

BEFORE you start, besides the normal mechanic's tools you will need a 12mm Allen wrench, a torque wrench and a 27mm socket- a 1-1/16" socket works just as good. Also a Clymer manual

The pictures might show a slight different order of removal- I am trying to give you the best sequence- if there is confusion, go by what I have written.

-bike on centerstand.
-attach a tie down strap from the centerstand to the front wheel (you'll thank me later- VERY IMPORTANT)

-unbolt the rear brake caliper and tie it up out of the way
-remove the rear wheel
-remove the speed sensor

-drain the final drive (FIRST check that you are able to loosen the fill plug)

-unbolt both of the footpeg plates. Set the left one aside, swing the right one up and tie it out of the way.



-unbolt the control arm under the final drive then place a support under the final drive.
-unbolt both ends of the shock and remove it

You are now getting down to business.

-On the rear of the swingarm- right side, loosen the large locknut

-Loosen and remove the larger of the two bands holding the rubber boot between the swingarm and the final drive.

NOW PROCEED CAREFULLY- the next steps will allow the final drive to be pulled back from the driveshaft, and the driveshaft will separate. The front (longer section with the female spline portion) will remain in the swingarm while the rear (short section with the male spline portion) will come with the final drive. If you are not removing the entire driveshaft, pay attention to how the shaft separates. You might want to read this NOW http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6117&sid=696d09843699f718b3b1ad04cd63fa9e

-while supporting the final drive with a small jack or a few blocks of wood, use the 12mm Allen wrench to loosen and remove the fixed pivot on the rear wheel side of the swingarm

Then unscrew the adjustable pivot on the outer side


-you now can pull the final drive back and off- you did read the warning above about driveshaft phasing, right? Place the FD aside.

If you are just lubing the driveshaft splines, do it and start reversing the above steps.

If you are venturing further and doing the full driveshaft/swingarm removal, keep reading and working- full speed ahead....

You should be looking at this now


-in the next step you will be removing the swingarm. Likely that you will find that the clutch cable is in the way- better to change that now. Pull the handlebar clutch lever back to the bar and wrap something around it to hold it there. Go to the back and taking a large screwdriver, wedge it between the exhaust system below and the clutch arm above. (see the exhaust and the clutch arm on the left side of the above picture). Now release what you wrapped around the handlebar clutch lever to give you slack so that you can....

-Unhook the cable and ease the screwdriver back out


-now go to the left swingarm pivot, just behind the shift lever and loosen the large locknut on the adjustable pivot. Then back out and remove the adjustable pivot


-now on the right side pivot, remove the 4 small bolts and replace the center bolt with something under it that will allow you to twist it both ways while pulling out. I used a 3/8" box wrench under a large washer


-wiggle the fixed pivot out

-you should now be able to pull the swingarm back, leaving the front of the driveshaft attached to the transmission.


-the front part of the driveshaft is attached to the output shaft of the trans. It is held on by a "circlip" inside the forward part of the driveshaft. With a large screwdriver from the right side of the bike-inserted into the driveshaft just behind the U joint and a shop rag protecting the transmission housing, lever the driveshaft backwards by pushing the screwdriver handle forward (you did fasten a tie down from the centerstand to the front wheel, RIGHT?)
Some will "pop off" easier than others.
You should now see this at the trans


and have the forward part of the driveshaft in your hands.

-Go find where you placed the final drive and repeat the screwdriver "pop-off" removal with the rear part of the driveshaft.
You should now have these parts on your floor or bike lift


Check both of the U joints for excess play or roughness. Clean and relube the front, middle and rear splines. Mine had just a very slight amount of "looseness" in the front joint, but Rusty (the parts god at MaxBMW) suggested a rebuild next winter, but I'm OK for now.

Time for reassembly. Shocked

-After you have cleaned the parts, we have to get back on the road. So, the swingarm is first to go back on the bike (driveshaft AFTER that). Get it back in position and re-install the swingarm pivots. Look in the Clymer manual for the torque settings- they are less than what you would think.

-Now is where your petite wife, girlfriend or neighbor is necessary. The "boot" (up by where it pivots on the bike) that surrounds the trans output shaft needs to be pushed back onto the flange on the trans. The only way is to have a skinny hand and arm go into the large opening at the back of the swingarm, go forward inside the swingarm and push the boot onto that flange- it is all done by feel. Now support the swingarm so that it is parallel to the floor.

-Next on is the front part of the driveshaft (you have read the driveshaft phasing thread already, right?) With both parts of the driveshaft on a flat surface, get the phasing correct and mark both parts to indicate so- you need to place your marks where the front and rear parts of the driveshaft join, so that you will see them when the front part is back in the swingarm. Put the front part into the swingarm and slide it onto the trans output shaft. It needs a good strong tap with a hammer/block of wood to "pop" the circlip back on. Check that it is seated correctly by pulling backwards in the shaft- it shouldn't come backwards if the circlip is locking it in place.

-Do the same for the rear part of the driveshaft, tapping it onto the final drive.

-Now lift the final drive and (while looking at your phasing marks) slide the two parts of the driveshaft together and reinstall the fixed and adjustable pivots. The torque values are the same as the front of the swingarm.

- Now just reverse everything that you did for the removal part and you are DONE. Remember to re-attach the clutch cable.

-REMEMBER to refill the final drive with 75w-90 gear oil.

Double check all your work- methodically and carefully. But you now know how the back end of a brick works!
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White
2009 R1200RT Black
gone-'14 Triumph Daytona 675R
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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Scott_Anderson
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 2907
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good posting there John.
I might add that if you have been having problems with your shift indicators, now is the time to work on that as the only way to get to the shift indicator "transmitter" is with the swing arm off.

Also good time to clean/lube the clutch pivot arm while you have good clear access, and the cable disconnected anyway.
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1997 K1100LT 0302488
1995 K1100LT 0302044
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miKeinWIs
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Jun 2009
Posts: 143
Location: Birchwood, WI

PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent John, Thank you.
Never seen the swingarm pics before.
Do the pivot bearings stay in place when the pivot bolts are pulled??
Still have a phobia about replacing the pivot bolts/adjusting. Or is it not that bad?

Thanks again
Mike
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Bought 6/30/09 w/26,750 miles
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SugarHillCTD
Site Admin


Joined: 10 Oct 2007
Posts: 4124
Location: Sugar Hill, NH, USA

PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott,
Good call about the shift indicator sensor, since it is directly in front of the swingarm (the round assembly just to the left of the output shaft and above the clutch lever in this picture) and impossible to service with the swingarm still attached to the bike.




Mike,

The bearings are pressed into both sides of the swingarm where it pivots on the bike.

Once you back out both the fixed (right side) and adjustable (left side) pivots, the swingarm pulls straight out towards the rear.

Reinstalling the swingarm is easy. BUT be sure to use a torque wrench especially for the adjustable side since it is a much lower torque setting than you would expect.
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White
2009 R1200RT Black
gone-'14 Triumph Daytona 675R
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.
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