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Orange CATZ XLO lights - 2 thumbs up
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jpberens1994K1100RS
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 784
Location: Hales Corners, WI. / Relocating to central FL.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 9:27 am    Post subject: wiring Reply with quote

There are much better tech wiz's here than I, Drake is stellar with electro gizmo's
I am KISS all the way.

Kinda crude yes, but I run right off the positive terminal. Lights & heated jacket liner is all I have on the bike, but I am thinking of adding an aux fuse box for more stuff.
I just tie wrap everything to the frame and take my time routing it so it's, out of sight and protected, AND I can access the inline fuse easy. I used the master ground under the tank to for all the grong wires on the CATZ harness. Wrapped up the excess harness, tie wrapped it, and nested it in there.
Ran the orange wire that powers the relay all the way back to rear running light. It's a fine wire, so I just pulled off the wire connector at the terminal inside the rear light. There is a small round hole in the center of the terminal male tang. The wire minus 2 strands fits right in. Strip off only about 3/16" of the sheath. Put on a dab of dielectric grease, plug the connector back on right over the wire. Fits good and tight, all set to go.
I also use dielectic grease on ALL the other conectors to keep out moisture and protect them from corrosion.
In my shock post you can see the orange wire along the fram rail. I'm going to tuck that in higher and more secure soon.
Take your time, route carefully, test full steering swing before tie wrapping anything off.
Do it once right, and it'll be well worth the time as you won't need to worry about it.
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1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I run my headlight and driving/fog light relays from the big red wire on the starter relay in the right rear corner of the relay box. (I'd advise you to disconnnect the battery before doing this stuff. Make sure you have the radio code if it's an LT.)

The wiring that came with the CATZ lights does not include a relay I don't think. (I did my own wiring.)

I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND using a relay for these lights since they draw 140 watts (2x70W)

Place an inline fuse between the power tap and the relay. I'd get one with at least 14 gauge wiring. Use a 15 or 20 amp fuse. Connect the output from the inline fuse to the 30 terminal on the relay (30 is input power for the lights)

Note: IF you want to make them so that they only go on with the high or low beam then tap into the white (high beam) or yellow(low beam) wire from the left switch wiring and hook that up to terminal 86 of the relay instead of contant power in the prior paragraph. (I have mine wired to the low beam.)

If you want to them to run with either high or low beam but so that they turn off when the bike is turned off then tap 86 into the switched wire on the alarm wiring harness connector which is an extra white round connector floating around in the relay box.

Hook the 87 terminal of the relay up to the positive leads for the lights. Yes, ground them at the main grounding point under the tank.

I would also recommend using a BMW switch - both for cosmetic and waterproofiness reasons. The swtich that comes with the CATZ lights is meant to be mounted inside of a car and I suspect not very waterproof.
Wire the hazard switch up to gound and the 85 terminal on the relay. When that switxh completes the circuit it will trigger the relay.

You can buy an emergency flasher switch for this purpose. (BMW part 61311459305) You can replace the little graphic insert with a fog lamp insert (part 61311459359) for $4.

For some reason, light manufacturers like CATZ and PIAA use WHITE covering for their wires - YUK! I buy heat shrink tubing from Fry's in 3-4 foot sections and use that instead.

Since you're going to be doing this it is also an excellent opportunity to add headlight relays if your bike doesn't have them already.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
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Stoked Steve
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Sep 2004
Posts: 1402
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Duck, that was what I was looking for. I like the idea of using a BMW switch, I could replace my dummy one (for grips I believe, which I don't have.)

Why add relays to the stock headlight? The whole relay thing has always been a bit of a mystery to me, no comprende?
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Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

skdonlan wrote:
Why add relays to the stock headlight?


Go here:
http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=44593
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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owrstrich
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Oct 2006
Posts: 2566
Location: CheezConsin

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the catz lights come with a relay...

click this link... shows everything about the kit... different lens color demonstrated... but it shows the whole deal...


http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=539064&image=167999196&images=167999196,167999164,167999217,167999244,167999137,167999122,168008111,158573051,158573023,158572969,167998863,167999005,167998309,167999367,167999103,167999096,167999390&formats=0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0&format=0


j o
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're right. I didn't really look closely at the CATZ stuff since I just used what I already had installed for my prior WallyWorld fog lghts.

A 20 amp in-line fuse too. I've been running mine on 15 and that seems to work.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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jpberens1994K1100RS
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 784
Location: Hales Corners, WI. / Relocating to central FL.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:19 pm    Post subject: Relays Reply with quote

+1 on the head light relay.

I bought the one from Eastern Beaver with the high temp plug connector.
Everything fit nice & neat in a corner of the fairing.
Added a PIAA 100/110 Super White bulb at the same time.

Not 24 hr endurance racing bright, but between that & the CATZ lights I can see very well.
BTW.
Absolutely no one has flashed me with their brights yet. Got the look over from a couple of LEO's, but no troubles.

Once again, a huge thank you to the site hosts and all the great idea's shared here by the members.
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2014 Moto Guzzi Norge
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Stoked Steve
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Sep 2004
Posts: 1402
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I would also recommend using a BMW switch - both for cosmetic and waterproofiness reasons. The swtich that comes with the CATZ lights is meant to be mounted inside of a car and I suspect not very waterproof.
Wire the hazard switch up to gound and the 85 terminal on the relay. When that switxh completes the circuit it will trigger the relay.

You can buy an emergency flasher switch for this purpose. (BMW part 61311459305) You can replace the little graphic insert with a fog lamp insert (part 61311459359


Wow! That switch lists for almost $50! Yowza, I would like the looks of the factory switch, but thats more than half the price of the lights, with shipping and the fog light icon, it's about $65.
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Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom
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jpberens1994K1100RS
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 784
Location: Hales Corners, WI. / Relocating to central FL.

PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 7:43 pm    Post subject: BMW switch Reply with quote

Yeah, you gotta pay if you want to play.

Maybe some one out there has a used switch for you?

I thought my set up, looked OK, not super cool or stock, but OK.

Plus, you can try it that way and if you just can't stand it then all you out is your time and a switch blank.
I've been through a couple of down pours and bike washings, still works well.
If you want, send the new CATZ switch and the BMW blank to me and I'll fit the switch to it, use black silicone to seal it like I did mine, and send it back to you. Gratis for a KOG fellow rider.

Best of luck, I REALLY love these lights. They have saved my countless frustrations in just a few short weeks. Yet again, on the high way today, when I came upon a left lane parker. Less than 5 seconds of me hanging in his driver side mirror has him moving over. Before I could tap th ehorn, flash the bright, nothing. Just 5 secs of the CATZ moves em on over.
Very sweet!
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2014 Moto Guzzi Norge
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After doing 500+ miles of interstate slab last Friday I found yet another reason to love these lights. People who aren't members of the LLOC notice you when you're farther back and tend to be out of the left lane by the time you get there. This means less disengaging/re-engaging the cruise control.

(LLOC = Left Lane Owners Club - those people who sit in the left hand lane at whatever speed and refuse to be polite drivers who move to the right to let faster vehicles by.)
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Stoked Steve
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Sep 2004
Posts: 1402
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
(LLOC = Left Lane Owners Club - those people who sit in the left hand lane at whatever speed and refuse to be polite drivers who move to the right to let faster vehicles by.)
_________________


This is my number one pet peeve while driving. I put about 25k a year on my truck for work and live by the motto, "Drive right, Pass Left". If you're not passing someone, you should not be in the left lane, heavy traffic excepted, as long as your keeping up with the person ahead of you. We even have signs around here that say "slower traffic, keep right." But people think if there doing 65, they're not the slower traffic. If you're doing 90 and someone comes up behind you, you are the slower traffic, get the hell out of the way!.

Not using turn signals is my number two pet peeve.

But back to the lights, Duck would the current draw on these babies be an issue with my '93 lesser alternator?
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Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

skdonlan wrote:
But back to the lights, Duck would the current draw on these babies be an issue with my '93 lesser alternator?


When I went from running 35W fog lights with a 90W low beam (total draw lighting 160W) to running 55W fog lights with a 90W low beam (total lightingdraw 200W) I killed my battery in just a couple of hours of running errands around town. (Nice day, no heated grips or gear going.)

Based on that experience, I'd guess that running the Catz XLOs at 70W each with a stock 55W low beam (total lighting draw 195W) will most likely overtax a 32A alternator. You could try it though and it wouldn't hurt anything. When it happened to me I was moving so I just turned the fog lights off and compression started the bike.

The 50A alternator upgrade isn't very difficult and means you've got lots of extra juice for heated gear too.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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jpberens1994K1100RS
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 784
Location: Hales Corners, WI. / Relocating to central FL.

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 8:09 pm    Post subject: CATZ ambers Reply with quote

+1 Cool

Oh yeah! I get most people moving over WAY fast now. Not certain WTF they are confusing me with, but I don't care.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 8:17 pm    Post subject: Re: CATZ ambers Reply with quote

jpberens1994K1100RS wrote:
+1 Cool

Oh yeah! I get most people moving over WAY fast now. Not certain WTF they are confusing me with, but I don't care.


I think the CATZ lights are more noticable from a longer distance so polite attentive drivers move over sooner. There's still no hope that they'll budge the LLOC crew - who probably don't use their mirrors in the first place anyhow.

My brother used to be an LLOC driver. (He's lazy.) It used to drive me nuts when riding in the car with him. Of course since I'm his older brother he was stubborn and refused to listen to me Evil or Very Mad He got it eventually though.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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jpberens1994K1100RS
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Apr 2008
Posts: 784
Location: Hales Corners, WI. / Relocating to central FL.

PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 8:59 pm    Post subject: Watt draw Reply with quote

My 93 RS has the 50 AMP alt.
Built in Oct of that year. U sure U have the lower power Alternator?
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Tue May 26, 2009 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We cna tell if you give us the last 7 digits of your VIN.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Stoked Steve
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Sep 2004
Posts: 1402
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always just assumed all the 93's had the smaller one.

My vin is 6495851 (last 7 digits)
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Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oops, I forgot. All RS years came with a 50A alternator. It's only the 93 and earlier model year LTs that had the 32A alternator.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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View user's profile Send private message
Stoked Steve
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Sep 2004
Posts: 1402
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet, so I have the larger one? Awesome. Bring on the lights!
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Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, you're good. Easy enough to verify as well: The 50A alternator has a black plastic cover on the rear of it.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
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