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Engine flods after engine rebuild?

 
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Jan E-28
Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jun 2018
Posts: 26
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2019 6:13 pm    Post subject: Engine flods after engine rebuild? Reply with quote

K1100rs -96:

Engine did run fine, just low on compression. So pulled the engine and had it rebuilt. Only sensors to engine, battery, and ECU was disconnected. Rest, included fuelrail/injectors was still connected to bike.

Wrote down cronological every step I did, and backtraced it when putting engine back. So Im 99% sure I have connected everything back up as it was.

Now when I turn the key fuel pump buzz for about 1 second (as it was before rebuild also) to build up pressure. But now at the same time it gushes out 2ml fuel on all 4 injectors resulting in flooding the cylinders and impossible to start.


I have double checked everything and can’t find anything wrong?
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Thu Oct 10, 2019 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Recheck the temp sensor connection. The one on the pipe coming off the front of the cylinder head.
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86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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Jan E-28
Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jun 2018
Posts: 26
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2019 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will.
But why should that have an effect? The 2ml is way more then any cold priming amount or what chock gives?
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3119
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2019 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd maybe check for a pinched wire, specifically the wires to the injector harness.
Just turning the key on, not pressing the starter button, you should not get any fuel out of the injectors when the pump is running/pressurizing the system.
The injectors are supplied +12v constantly thu the FI relay, and the ground line is switched on/off in the ECU. So if the ground line got pinched during engine installation, it could cause the injectors to open and stay open when the ignition key is turned on(energizing the FI relay).

The other wiring I'd check for a pinched line would be for the HES sensors at the front of the engine. The HES tells the ECU to fire the injectors and plugs.
It's possible the wiring got pinched on re-assembly.

You could probably test this theory by checking the plugs for spark, when pressing the starter button. Disconnect the fuel pump so your not pumping gas into the engine. Pull your plugs and make sure they have a good ground and then check for spark. They should spark in pairs, 1-4 will fire together as well as then 2-3 will fire together. I'm thinking that if you have a faulty HES input, you will not have spark on one or both sets of plugs.
I suppose in lieu of removing the plugs, you could use an old timing light on the plug wires to check for the high voltage pulse.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 11, 2019 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jan E-28 wrote:
I will.
But why should that have an effect? The 2ml is way more then any cold priming amount or what chock gives?


The mixture is adjusted based on the temperature. As the coolant temperature rises the resistance of the temp sensor decreases. When the temp sensor isn't connected it's an open circuit (infinite resistance) so it looks like the engine is at an extremely low temperature.

I had the temp sensor come loose on a K100 (somebody forgot to put the clip on - not me.) When it came loose the bike instantly flooded. When I tried to start it so much fuel was being injected that I literally had gas leaking out of the headers onto the ground. Reconnected the sensor with a clip and problem solved.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
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bravarianbert



Joined: 02 Sep 2019
Posts: 2
Location: Clevedon, UK

PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2019 4:07 am    Post subject: Engine Flooding= Rich mixture? Reply with quote

Yes, all the previous are right on the target, fault trace, the coolant sensor, bet its the original, 1996=23yrs old, being exactly what I have on my 1992 K11 Lt, the chart in the threads for Ohmn resistance checking is well worth a look, and check your readings, as previously stated
Mine must have been failing for years, it was only reading half was it should be, by the amount soot and carbon, valves, exhaust+ smell coming back at you at steady speed, so sending the wrong readings to the ECU
My check list also included looking at the thermostat, mine was seized closed, and into the air box, mine had 1992 date (76kmiles) stamped on the air cleaner never been changed, really dirty, air sensor probe also cleaned. total neglect.
interesting to here the findings on this, best of luck
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Jan E-28
Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jun 2018
Posts: 26
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2019 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It has a fresh service with all fluids and filters.

Pulled the plugs and they spark normal. So HES looks OK.
Ohm'd the temp sensor again and dipped it in boiling water to see it changes. But there is also a temp sensor in my BSKspeedworks management kit I tried and did not change anything.
Ohm'd every wire and all pins around looks fine with no corrosion.
There is the +12V to one side of injectors and other wire to the ECU is not pinced or anything and fine all the way to the ECU.
Problems is still there Sad

With no power on the ECU its not connecting ground up to the ejectors. But it does when key is turned and pump is primed and when pushing the starter (not pulsing just open).

Im close to just call it dead and put in the Delta400 management system.
But I realy would like to know what parts can go on the shelf and what to bin instead of just bin it all :-/
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10087
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2019 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the water temp sensor.


_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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bravarianbert



Joined: 02 Sep 2019
Posts: 2
Location: Clevedon, UK

PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2019 1:31 am    Post subject: Engine Flooding= Rich mixture? Reply with quote

Interesting , trail of your investigation. The list of resistances is absolutely on the mark, my other thought for you is the TPS, throttle switch settings, on another site of Brick owners problems the owner was just going around in circles with almost the same fault pattern. The signal being sent to ECU/Fi side was completely false, change the switch and instant fix, back running as it should. on that area, was another note , on reconnecting the battery, turn ign switch on, twist the twist grip to Full Throttle, and Back, turn off ign. and then back on,try to start in the normal way. good luck
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Jan E-28
Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jun 2018
Posts: 26
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Fri Oct 25, 2019 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the temp resistor list. I'll check it again.
And also will test the TPS.
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Jan E-28
Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jun 2018
Posts: 26
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2023 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Long time in here. And see that I do not have came with the solution for the ones that search the forum:

The ECU was in did faulty. Ordered a used ECU and it fired right up. Very Happy
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