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Front wheel issue

 
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John Clauss
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 04 Apr 2003
Posts: 730
Location: Robesonia, PA

PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2023 8:48 am    Post subject: Front wheel issue Reply with quote

So I removed my front tire/wheel assembly to get a new tire mounted. OK, new tire on ready to go, but then I encounter this issue. Just for reference this is a 1997 K1100LT with the chrome looking forks.

When removing the wheel I loosened the pinch bolts, removed the end bolt, and lightly tapped on the axle to get it out. Once it was clear of the left side fork (as you sit on the bike. I was able to remove the axle by simply turning the screwdriver inserted through the holes.

So now I am ready to remount. All is fine until I get the axle to the left side fork, where it encounters a lot of resistance. I can not get it through. So last night I took the axle and just inserted it into the left side fork. When I get to the end closest to the wheel it just stops.

I was able to spread the pinch with a screwdriver and that allowed to go through, but once the wheel was axle were in the right position. No joy.

Ideas that I have had:
1. Heat the fork, I am reluctant to do this because of damaging the aluminum. Should this be OK? Heat gun, or torch.

2. I feel nothing with my finger inside the fork to indicate a lump or defect in the metal. Could I run a file along the edge where the hold up is?

3. How far can I spread the pinch opening before I need to worry about breaking the fork?

I am at a total loss on this one. I removed the front wheel of my K11RS in a field at a rally once, and it was easy. The LT is newer than the RS, would that make a difference. Thanks!
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10085
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2023 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The axle should have a decent coat of grease on it.

When the end of the axle gets to the left fork does it enter the hole in the left fork at all?

Does the axle go through without the wheel? If the holes at the bottoms of the forks are out of alignment for some reason then loosening/removing the four bolts that hold the fork brace will allow you to rotate the bottoms of the forks slightly to re-align those holes.

Then, once you have the axle all of the way through, with the axle end and pinch bolts a little loose, "jump" the front end up and down as recommended on the rider manual. Then tighten:
1 - End bolt
2 - Pinch bolts
3 - fork brace bolts

One ting I've done in the past with stubborn axles is to use a longer M10 bolt with the end cap to help pull it through.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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John Clauss
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 04 Apr 2003
Posts: 730
Location: Robesonia, PA

PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2023 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flying Duck wrote:
The axle should have a decent coat of grease on it. (I did this)

When the end of the axle gets to the left fork does it enter the hole in the left fork at all? (A little bit, but that is where the problem lies right as it gets to that side)

Does the axle go through without the wheel? If the holes at the bottoms of the forks are out of alignment for some reason then loosening/removing the four bolts that hold the fork brace will allow you to rotate the bottoms of the forks slightly to re-align those holes. (I can put it through from the other side, but it takes way too much pressure. The forks might be out of alignment, but the axle does not go all the way through just the left hand side, so I do not think that is the issue)

Then, once you have the axle all of the way through, with the axle end and pinch bolts a little loose, "jump" the front end up and down as recommended on the rider manual. Then tighten:
1 - End bolt
2 - Pinch bolts
3 - fork brace bolts

One ting I've done in the past with stubborn axles is to use a longer M10 bolt with the end cap to help pull it through. (I may have to try this.)

_________________
1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 368
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2023 12:23 pm    Post subject: Front wheel/axle Reply with quote

This sounds as if the axle hole in the two fork sliders are out of alignment. My first action would be to check the top yoke and see if the top of the forks are equally located, height wise
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10085
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2023 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you turning the axle when installing it? (Via the hole in through right end.)

That can help.

Prying "the pinch" of the left fork apart a little probably wouldn't hurt but I wouldn't he-man it to the point of breaking it.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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John Clauss
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 04 Apr 2003
Posts: 730
Location: Robesonia, PA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2023 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Success! Finally. I got hit with this new virus going around HMPV and it laid me low for a while. Finally I was able to get a long enough bolt and pull the axle through. There was a lot of resistance, but once it moved it went through easily. So it is all buttoned up ready to ride tomorrow, which I will be.

I did stick the axle in the freezer for a couple of days, not sure if that made a huge difference, but I figured it couldn't hurt.

Thanks for the ideas and support, sites like this are really a godsend.
_________________
1997 K1100LT
1975 R75/6

It will bring you so close to nausea, it will make you sick! - Big Al
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Grunter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Sep 2015
Posts: 368
Location: North East England

PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2023 3:43 am    Post subject: Axle refitting Reply with quote

I know you have the wheel back in and this is a little late, but it may help the next time.

your efforts seem pretty extreme just to get the axle through the forks. The main problem always seems to come when the wheel is fitted between and the axle is pushed though. The axle has a 'shoulder' which stops it going right through because with the weight of the wheel and tyre on the axle shaft it tends to force the axle out of alignment.

because the LT is very 'nose heavy' to remove the wheel I always use a scissors jack with a piece of wood on top to lift the bike up so it is resting on the rear wheel. I can then pull the axle out easily and the wheel just drops

When refitting I put the wheel and tyre in place with the spacers at either side held in place by heavy grease and insert the axle couple of inches or so, then gradually lower the jack when the nose of the bike will drop down until the forks and wheel are all aligned and the axle should just push through
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1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS
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