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Mark_C
Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Posts: 20 Location: Northampton UK
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Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 3:40 pm Post subject: Oil Pump - put my mind at rest |
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My fairly recently acquired LT has spent the last few months in various pieces undergoing a winter refurb. I’ve changed the clutch, lubed the splines, overhauled the brakes, repainted most of the cycle parts, replaced breather and vacuum hoses, cleaned the throttle bodies and injectors, replaced clutch and throttle cables, new tyres, recovered the seat, master cylinder rebuild, the list goes on and on but doesn’t include an oil/water pump rebuild.
The result of all this is a fine running machine that is a pleasure to ride together with an empty bank account!
While the bike was standing over the whole winter I noticed maybe three or four drips of an oil/water emulsion form beneath the pump weep hole. However, since running the bike for about 300 miles after the refurb no more drips have appeared either over night or whilst ticking over on the main stand. There is however a very slight leak because after every ride the area immediately around the hole is just a little wet with oil. Not enough to form a drip, but still visible.
Is this normal? Do they all do that Sir? I wouldn’t normally worry much about this but next month I’m planning a 1500 mile tour of Scotland and want to put my mind at rest this is not going to suddenly let go. I will get round to rebuilding the pump eventually but ideally I need a break from spannering (and spending) on this for a while. _________________ 1996 K1100 LT
2002 R1150 GS |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10082 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2019 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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Go for a short ride to get it warmed up and immediately look at the oil sight glass when you stop. If you see frothy bubbles in there then it's coolant and you have a pump issue. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Mark_C
Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Posts: 20 Location: Northampton UK
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Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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No frothy bubbles in the sight glass. This is what I get after each ride. Bad enough to fix yet or can I get away with this for another 1500-2000 miles??
[img]135 by Mark C, on Flickr[/img] _________________ 1996 K1100 LT
2002 R1150 GS |
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Mark_C
Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Posts: 20 Location: Northampton UK
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Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 8:26 am Post subject: |
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Got it in bits now. Would you say this is reusable, or should I replace. They are not cheap....
[img]005 by M, on Flickr[/img] _________________ 1996 K1100 LT
2002 R1150 GS |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3117 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 8:43 am Post subject: |
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I would probably replace that.....
Have you checked with Motoworks, they may have a good used complete pump cheaper than getting 'the shaft' from BMW. ---pun intended-- lol _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.) |
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Grunter Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Sep 2015 Posts: 367 Location: North East England
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Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 8:46 am Post subject: Parts Price |
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If you going by the prices charged by a BMW dealer then you can expect to have to take out another mortgage. However if you look at the Motorworks web site (I Located near Huddersfield in UK).
They should be able to offer you a used pump complete ready to bolt in place with a 6 month guarantee. Or a rebuilt one which is more expensive and I think has a 12 month guarantee, or the parts to do the work yourself.
Their Web Address is [b]www.motorworks.co.uk
There were slight variations over the years so an accurate description when ordering will be needed.
I have had a look and a good used one ready to bolt on with the 6 month guarantee is £95 plus post usually about£7 to £10. They may come to you in a scruffy condition but it should clean up OK. When compared to a new on at over £500 that is a bargain. _________________ 1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS
Last edited by Grunter on Sun Mar 31, 2019 8:58 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Mark_C
Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Posts: 20 Location: Northampton UK
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Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 8:57 am Post subject: |
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It’s about £30 for the seals but an extra £135 for a new shaft from Motorworks. They used to list a reconditioned pump for £180 but that appears to have been deleted from their website. I was hoping to get away with just the seals but with a fairly big trip looming I guess I can’t take the chance. Don’t really want to fit a used pump. I’m sure Motorworks would swap it out if it leaked, but I haven’t really got the time to do the job twice.
I’ll give them a ring tomorrow. _________________ 1996 K1100 LT
2002 R1150 GS |
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Grunter Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Sep 2015 Posts: 367 Location: North East England
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Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 9:08 am Post subject: Buying used from M/works |
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I think buying used from them is relatively risk free. I have had a good number of items from them over the years and none have proved to be anything else than 'as described', by which I mean they are good.
What I have bought over the years - as used, are 2 x Hall sensors (different bikes) used master Cylinder and 2 used front brake callipers for a K1100LT I sold last year.
My latest acquisition was a 32/10 ratio final drive for one of my K75 bikes and apart, as I mentioned before, it did arrive very dirty, it is in really good condition. The seals don't leak and the drive is silent (unlike the one it replaced.) I will have no hesitation taking it to Switzerland again this year. (£150 for the drive compared to close on £400 for a rebuilt one is a no-brainer. _________________ 1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS |
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Mark_C
Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Posts: 20 Location: Northampton UK
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Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Polished it up with some Autosol and things look a little better. There is no corrosion in the area where the oil seal runs so I think I'll take a punt and try just renewing the seals.
[img]007 by M, on Flickr[/img]
There is a slight nick in the housing mainly in the "gap" between the oil and water seals. Hopefully this won't be a problem.
[img]009 by M, on Flickr[/img] _________________ 1996 K1100 LT
2002 R1150 GS |
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Mark_C
Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Posts: 20 Location: Northampton UK
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Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 2:49 am Post subject: |
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Ok I fitted new seals but when I put the pump back on the block and filled with oil, oil started to run out of the weep hole before even starting the bike!
Pulled the pump again and removed the shaft and it’s obvious what has happened. On installing the shaft, the oil seal has come unseated and is now sitting in the air space between the two seal positions. The seal is the correct way around.
I’m waiting for new seals to arrive so I can have another go.
The shaft must have pushed the oil seal out of place as the shaft went through. I saw on the YouTube videos to lube the seal before drifting in which I did. I think this might have been the problem. Think I’ll drift the next one in dry and then lube it liberally before pushing the shaft through. I’m also going to slide the shaft just past the oil seal and then try and hold it in the air space whilst I drift the water seal in place. I’ll then bring the shaft through all the way using the impeller bolt as before. That way I can see what’s happening to the oil seal as the shaft goes through.
Any other suggestions (apart from buying a new pump - can’t afford one!) _________________ 1996 K1100 LT
2002 R1150 GS |
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Mike d Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 19 Feb 2010 Posts: 130 Location: Daventry UK
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Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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When you put the shaft in did you use a bolt and spacer or did you just drift it in. If the latter there is a high chance that you have damaged the ceramic water seal.
Mike |
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Mark_C
Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Posts: 20 Location: Northampton UK
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Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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Bolt and spacer method. Hopefully bits will arrive tomorrow for attempt number two _________________ 1996 K1100 LT
2002 R1150 GS |
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Mark_C
Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Posts: 20 Location: Northampton UK
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Posted: Tue Apr 09, 2019 2:57 am Post subject: |
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Attempt number two seems to have worked. Oil seal installed dry and then shaft pushed through and held flush with the oil seal whilst then drifting in the water seal. Finally shaft pulled through the water seal with the bolt and spacer method.
Started the bike on the ramp and ran until hot and all now dry as a bone. Just need to refit the plastics and take it for a long ride to be absolutely sure. _________________ 1996 K1100 LT
2002 R1150 GS |
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Mark_C
Joined: 28 Sep 2018 Posts: 20 Location: Northampton UK
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Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 4:41 am Post subject: |
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300 miles in, and pump is completely leak free. Think I can call that job done. _________________ 1996 K1100 LT
2002 R1150 GS |
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