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EricR
Joined: 10 Jun 2018 Posts: 14 Location: Milan Mi
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 2:48 pm Post subject: New to the BMW world! |
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I hope this is the proper section to carry on with my questions.
Is there a write up or post, on replacing the clutch push rod oring
The links that where ( so graciously) provided took me to the main page. From the I looked in the transmission, and understand clutch.
I might have over looked it, but did not find # 12 to be the oring or seal. Is this real oem site of highest regard, considering price and service? I could go to South East Michigan BMW ( about 45 minutes away) for parts. Rather not though. I'm not that snooty. _________________ Eric R
94 K1100 LT (new to me)
84 Honda Sabre (probably for sale)
2000 kaw super Sherpa. |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10085 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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The part number for the seal at the back of the pushrod is 23211451061.
Looks like it is no longer available so you should call the dealer and see if they can find one somewhere. Even though BMW doesn't sell it anymore there may be a dealer somewhere that has one in stock and they can look from their computer at what other dealers have on hand.
To replace it you need to destroy the old one to get it out. PITA.
It is also easy to mess up the new one putting it in if you are not careful. BTDT. What worked for me was to pound it in with a socket that has the same diameter as the hole where the seal goes. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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EricR
Joined: 10 Jun 2018 Posts: 14 Location: Milan Mi
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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First thanks for the part # ! Yes to the socket seal driver start it and strike as squarley as possible. At minimum have to remove the tire. When you did it did you remove the final and the shaft as well?
Getting a closer look today after work I see that the push rod boot is also wet with oil and grimey. But not running all down the case.
I will check the adjustment measurements. But my experience has been once a seal is leaking it will continue till replaced.
Also where on the site do I attach a picture of the old girl?
I seen a spot for an avatar, but didn't think that was correct.
Thanks again for your time! _________________ Eric R
94 K1100 LT (new to me)
84 Honda Sabre (probably for sale)
2000 kaw super Sherpa. |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10085 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 6:56 pm Post subject: |
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When I did mine the transmission was off the bike since I first thought that it was the transmission input shaft seal leaking until I saw the gear oil on the pushrod which could only have come from that rear seal.
I think you might be able to do it without pulling the swing arm but not 100% sure on that.
And if you end up taking the final drive off then I'd recommend replacing the final drive pivot bearings. The OEM bearings have cheap plastic races to hold the needle bearings in and if they haven't broken yet they will.
http://www.beemershop.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TRA11092 _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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SugarHillCTD Site Admin
Joined: 10 Oct 2007 Posts: 4240 Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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I’ll let Flying Duck handle the bike tech. But if you want to post pictures you need to have them on a picture hosting site then link them to your K11 thread. OK? _________________ John & Cathy
'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F. |
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robleyd Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 23 Jul 2009 Posts: 398 Location: Murbko, Australia
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EricR
Joined: 10 Jun 2018 Posts: 14 Location: Milan Mi
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 9:54 pm Post subject: |
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I did check the clutch adjustment, and it was real close to spec. Then I decided to go through the procedure any way to see how difficult it was without removing anything. Not bad at all. Though the jam nut would not back out but maybe 2 turns. I thought WTH it's already leaking, what could I hurt to remove the bolt and clean up the threads. As I did gear lube began ooozing out.â˜¹ï¸ _________________ Eric R
94 K1100 LT (new to me)
84 Honda Sabre (probably for sale)
2000 kaw super Sherpa. |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10085 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 11:35 pm Post subject: |
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That's normal for there to be gear oil in there. It keeps that rear assembly lubed. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Jim Site Admin
Joined: 17 May 2003 Posts: 3840 Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 12:03 am Post subject: Re: New to the BMW world! |
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Eric - it helps if you put the year of your bike in your signature - especially if we're looking up a part number for you or trying to help with a technical issue.
EricR wrote: | I hope this is the proper section to carry on with my questions.
Is there a write up or post, on replacing the clutch push rod oring
The links that where ( so graciously) provided took me to the main page. From the I looked in the transmission, and understand clutch.
I might have over looked it, but did not find # 12 to be the oring or seal. Is this real oem site of highest regard, considering price and service? I could go to South East Michigan BMW ( about 45 minutes away) for parts. Rather not though. I'm not that snooty. |
_________________ Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repairing
1992 K75RTP 46,000
1992 R100R 24,000 - FOR SALE
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Niemand Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 29 Mar 2006 Posts: 106 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 1:41 pm Post subject: Re: New to the BMW world! |
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EricR wrote: | The links that where ( so graciously) provided took me to the main page...... Is this real oem site of highest regard, considering price and service? |
Those links in your intro post were broken due to the formatting of the URLs on that site. If you highlight the entire string of the URL including the non-blue parts of gibberish after the blue link portion, then right-click and copy or "go to" it will send you directly to the spot Duck was referring to.
I noticed the same issue when posting my comment, and only used realoem as a follow up to Duck's post pointing you there. (In other words, it's his fault...hehe)
There is nothing special about that site. Plenty of dealers have a similar setup, some being better than others. I actually think the one at MaxBMW is easier to use. (and link to apparently)
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsFiche.aspx
Use whichever parts fiche site that works best for you to get part numbers needed, then shop for the best price. Several dealers have an online presence that gives you a 10% or more discount over walking into a local dealer. I haven't bought parts in several years, so not up on the current leader in pricing. Service can vary a bit, but I haven't had any experiences that would drive me away from any of them so far.
Like you, I'm about an hour away from a couple of dealers, so I just shop online instead and have stuff delivered to my door for better prices. _________________ Niemand
1994 K1100RS
2023 DR650SE |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10085 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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I don't think anybody gives a discount anymore. I think BMW NA cracked down on them or something. If anybody knows of any that still do I'd like to hear about it.
You can still get deals on some parts common with cars at FCP Euro though.
I get parts from A&S BMW because they ship for free regardless of order size. They don't charge sales tax either but that may change after today's Supreme Court ruling on taxing Internet purchases. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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EricR
Joined: 10 Jun 2018 Posts: 14 Location: Milan Mi
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Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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Well the simple truth of it is we bought this blue brick to ride, not sit in the barn and make the Sabre envious!
I decided to go to the BMW dealership after work yesterday, to see what they might have on the shelf. I got lucky I guess, I got the last clutch cup/boot, and water/oil pump oring that they had. $48 for the boot I think, iseen it cheeper on line, consider shipping/ waiting, and the fact that it's supposed to rain all weekend here!
I wound up removing the rear wheel, and exhaust to gain enough access to the boot. Removed the lever part, and stopped there due to being tired from staying up to late reading forums/ researching things about this brick all week.
Any last bit of advice before I continue? Like the spring will fly out and hit you in the face, the inner rod can fall down inside of the transmission, then inevitably you have to split the trans anyway?
I did check out the new pin/ bearings for the final drive and think it's worth the investment. Maybe in the next couple months.
Thanks for all your help! _________________ Eric R
94 K1100 LT (new to me)
84 Honda Sabre (probably for sale)
2000 kaw super Sherpa. |
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Niemand Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 29 Mar 2006 Posts: 106 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 2:41 pm Post subject: |
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Nothing too complicated about the boot with easy access while the exhaust is off.
It's simply the one reusable clamp around the boot to remove. There is a stout spring behind it, but the non-launching variety fortunately. You'll get some lube running out initially when removed of course, but nothing nuts.
You might want to spend some quality late night time looking at exhaust issues though. The headers are very prone to cracking at the welds. Mine were fine, but apparently the exception. Some seem to think cracking is inevitable with the stock pipes. I was extra careful when removing and replacing due to paranoia there and everything worked fine. Hint: I loosened the center stand mount where the little green rubber exhaust mount bolt is in order to give it a little play during the re-install. Otherwise it seemed a bit impossible. _________________ Niemand
1994 K1100RS
2023 DR650SE |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3119 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 9:55 pm Post subject: |
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There is a rubber support bushing inside of the left side peg plate, if this bushing is worn it can put excess strain on the header pipes where they enter the collector, and lead to cracking. _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.) |
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EricR
Joined: 10 Jun 2018 Posts: 14 Location: Milan Mi
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Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2018 9:51 am Post subject: |
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Yes it was a simple procedure, although I had removed the adjustment bolt and lever and left the boot clamped in over night. The next morning. The spring pressure had ripped right through the boot, with the end laying in the oil pan. Lesson learned for spline lube job!
The exhaust is in good shape, despite the worn mount bushing on the left side. I will be replacing that. My wife spent a couple hours cleaning up the exhaust. Removing almost all of the rust with pb blaster and rags, and a nylon brush on a drill.
When I said to her the rust will come back, her reply was it will be much easier to clean when you do the clutch stuff. _________________ Eric R
94 K1100 LT (new to me)
84 Honda Sabre (probably for sale)
2000 kaw super Sherpa. |
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