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Tyre or Tire Size?
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 9346
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I'm sure many others here will vouch for, you should give serious consideration to running radial tires. The improvement is handling is quite significant.
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93 K11LT
94 K11RS- "Kato"
86-97 K75F (K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/ paralever, high perf. cams,TURBO!
91 K1
86 custom K100
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whyoldbill
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Posts: 439
Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grant93 wrote:
Gidday Folks,

Rang a tyre shop in Melbourne and for a Metzeler Marathon 140/80/17 to suit the original rear rim $245 fitted..


That is a bias ply tire in that size. I ran a set of those on mine once. Lousy in the rain and not all that sticky in the curves.

I concur with the Duck. Go with radials, you will not regret it.

I run the Michelin PR2s and can't say enough good things about them!

That's my $.02 worth.

Bill
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 2863
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm running PR'2 front and the Avon AV46 rear. Both stock LT sizes.
Am very happy with this setup. Some have gone to the PR'3 front, but I haven't as yet.
I would much rather have the extra sticky of the radial over the extra miles from a bias ply.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 9346
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also consider a BT-023 front. I'm running BT-023s front and rear on my LT and a BT-023 front/Avon rear on my K75 find them to be every bit as good as the Michelin PR2s and they cost a fair amount less. I know that Bridgestone has had some dogs earlier in the BT-02x series but the BT-023 certainly isn't one of them.
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93 K11LT
94 K11RS- "Kato"
86-97 K75F (K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/ paralever, high perf. cams,TURBO!
91 K1
86 custom K100
and 2 more
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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BobZ(IL)
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Joined: 20 May 2007
Posts: 631
Location: Bourbonnais, IL

PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+1 on the Bridgestone BT-023/Avon combo. I'd like to hear from a couple of the hot-shoe magazine testers after a couple of laps on my LT. So much better handling with radials.
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grant93
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Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 236
Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gidday Fellas

Thanks for the link and also once again for the comments, bth all I have known is the metzelers as I had them on my old 81 R100rs and it came fitted with this bike..

I will definitely look into it with the tyre guy a little more.

Talk to you all soon.
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marlin
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Joined: 13 Mar 2007
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Location: Iowa

PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wasn't there a post a while back about putting RS wheels on a LT to lower it? I'm considering that.
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Number 6
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Joined: 05 Feb 2011
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Location: Paris area, France

PostPosted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

marlin wrote:
Wasn't there a post a while back about putting RS wheels on a LT to lower it? I'm considering that.

You can do that, it will slightly lower it (you need to remove the stand washers), now if the purpose is to lower it there are other ways.
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RobBowker
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Joined: 16 Oct 2014
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Location: Oxfordshire, UK

PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 11:52 am    Post subject: Ride height Reply with quote

marlin wrote:
Wasn't there a post a while back about putting RS wheels on a LT to lower it? I'm considering that.


Currently contemplating this move for my K1100LT from a 17" x 3" LT rear to an 18" x 4.5" RS rear.

This is with the expectation that a wider rim with a radial tyre will handle better than a narrower non-radial (running Michelin Pilot Activs front and back currently). I've always thought the bike was a bit stetchy on anything but perfectly tarmac'ed bends.

Apologies if this sounds ignorant, but if you fit a 1" larger wheel, wouldn't that have the net effect of raising the bike 0.5" rather than lowering it?

...or are the radials for this wheel lower profile and therefore result in the lower ride height?

I don't especially want to lower the bike but I really don't want to raise it either.

Also, it looks as though a 150mm radial (Michelin Pilot Road) is currently available for 17" rims, so could I simply keep the same 17" wheel and put a radial on it to achieve the benefits I'd like to.

Any insight into my quandary would be really welcome. I still have 1mm or so depth on the current rear tyre before it hits the limit but it would be great to take the opportunity to improve the ride as well as getting new rubber (always a special day ) Surprised

Thanks in advance.
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1998 K1100LT SE
1995 Honda NTV 650 P (now sold)
1986 BMW R80RT TIC (the money pit - sold)
1981 CX500B (sold)
1981 Honda C70 (sold)
1981 Honda C90 (written off on a gravelly bend!)
1960s BSA Bantam D7 (never did get it running)
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The tires have different aspect ratios so the outer diameters are as follows. (These are diameters so cut them in half for the distance from the center of the axle to the ground.)

For the stock tire sizes:

LT front 110/80-18: 24.93"
LT rear 140/80-17: 25.82"

RS front 120/70-17: 23.61"
RS rear 160/60-18: 25.56"

So the RS front is 5.3% shorter and the RS rear is 1% shorter.


And the diameter of the "off-sized" 150/70-17 radial on the 3x17 LT rear wheel is 25.27".
_________________
93 K11LT
94 K11RS- "Kato"
86-97 K75F (K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/ paralever, high perf. cams,TURBO!
91 K1
86 custom K100
and 2 more
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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RobBowker
Brick Rider


Joined: 16 Oct 2014
Posts: 42
Location: Oxfordshire, UK

PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 8:51 am    Post subject: Thanks! Reply with quote

Thanks Duck, I did eventually get there. Aren't they a lovely mix of metric, imperial and ratios? Rim is here. Just need to order a 160/60-18 BT21 for it.

Also, looking forward to using those 5mm (approx) at the lights Very Happy
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1998 K1100LT SE
1995 Honda NTV 650 P (now sold)
1986 BMW R80RT TIC (the money pit - sold)
1981 CX500B (sold)
1981 Honda C70 (sold)
1981 Honda C90 (written off on a gravelly bend!)
1960s BSA Bantam D7 (never did get it running)
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RobBowker
Brick Rider


Joined: 16 Oct 2014
Posts: 42
Location: Oxfordshire, UK

PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 2:30 pm    Post subject: K1100LT rear wheel to K1100RS rear wheel conversion Reply with quote

K1100LT rear wheel conversion: ever since I got my bike - a '98SE - people have suggested swapping the rear 17" x 3" wheel for the 18" x 4.5" from an 1100RS, and put a radial tyre on it. The old tyre was wearing down to a couple of mm so it seemed like a good time to make the leap of faith.

I found a good, used 18" wheel at Sherlocks. 50 inc delivery. And a Bridgestone BT021 from tyreleader.co.uk (in Germany) and today I got the tyre fitted.

First impressions after a 30 mile gentle 'scrubbing in' session are

a] It lowers the seat height. Theoreticaly, only by 1%, but you can tell.

b] The bike feels more 'planted' on the road. This may just be the 'new rubber' effect, so we'll see.

c] The bike turns in to a corner a bit later/slower. It need a little bit more input on the bars a fraction earlier. Understandable, given the greater radius of the contact patch and presumably the flexibility of a radial vs bias ply Michelin Pilot it replaces. Once you get used to that, it follows the corner more sure-footedly than the Michelin.

d] The simplicity of removing the 17" x 3" wheel (5 bolts and it is off) becomes more complicated with the bigger wheel/tyre combination. I'm not sure if I really needed to, but I removed the rear part of the mudguard (4 screws - easy) so I could line up the wheel. Still no-go, so I removed the brake caliper, rolled the wheel alongside the hub but kept it on the silencer side and *then* refitted the caliper (23ft/lb torque - longer bolt at the front). THEN the wheel can be lifted onto the stub and bolted on.

For the kind of bike it is, I always thought the K1100LT handled pretty well but with some misgivings. Now it is a HUGE amount better (and this after only 30 miles)! I could probably sell my old wheel and come out evens on the conversion, so it is effectively a cost-free exercise. The BT021 radial was less expensive than the Michelin Pilot Road I would have been buying in any case. This latter has lasted 10,000 miles and still UK legal. If the Bridgestone lasts anywhere near this, I'll be an even happier man. Also, I understand from 'the community' that it is a BMW approved modification so doesn't need to be declared as 'customisation', thereby not affecting insurance premiums or potential claims.

Thanks for the help and advice on this and other forums.
_________________
1998 K1100LT SE
1995 Honda NTV 650 P (now sold)
1986 BMW R80RT TIC (the money pit - sold)
1981 CX500B (sold)
1981 Honda C70 (sold)
1981 Honda C90 (written off on a gravelly bend!)
1960s BSA Bantam D7 (never did get it running)
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