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Jnclem Big Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jul 2015 Posts: 64 Location: Gunnison, CO.
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Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 5:41 pm Post subject: Clearance Needed to Remove Fork Lowers |
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I don't have a lift. About the best I can do is jack the front end up enough so the rear wheel touches the ground and block it there. Does anyone know if that would give me enough ground clearance in the front to be able to remove the fork lowers? _________________ '93 K1100LT, '89 R100GS |
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SugarHillCTD Site Admin
Joined: 10 Oct 2007 Posts: 4240 Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania
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Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 5:51 pm Post subject: |
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Yes you can do it that way.
Here is my previous K-RS after I removed the fork lowers (the rags wrapped around the uppers for protection while I worked on the cam chain).
I blocked up under the oil sump (mostly to prevent the bike from moving forward off the centerstand) and there was enough room to remove the lowers.
_________________ John & Cathy
'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F. |
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Jnclem Big Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jul 2015 Posts: 64 Location: Gunnison, CO.
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Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 6:26 pm Post subject: |
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Great. That's what I do to work on the front brake, front wheel removal etc. I just got looking at it and didn't know if I'd be able to slide those lowers out of there. Looks like I'm set. _________________ '93 K1100LT, '89 R100GS |
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Grunter Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Sep 2015 Posts: 369 Location: North East England
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 4:41 am Post subject: Fork lowers removal. |
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You will find the lowers are held in place by a socket head screw which has an undersized hole for the socket and not helping matters the metal seems to be made of some pretty soft mild steel and the socket recess is quite shallow. From memory the socket recess is one usually used for a 6mm bolt, whilst these are 8mm. They are not removed very often and will seize up quite firmly and make removal difficult
Make sure that you clean out the socket recess thoroughly and that you use a good unworn socket key. One from a set which can fit into a ratchet driver is best. Fit the removal socket into the hole and give it a good clout with a hammer first, just to beak any seal.
If it 'rounds off' internally you will have to remove the whole leg to allow access to fit some sort of extractor.
When you fit the screw again, I always use a non setting sealant (Hylomar blue) and a smear of copper grease on the threads to make any removal in future easier. _________________ 1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS |
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Inge K. Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Apr 2011 Posts: 458 Location: Norway
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 9:05 am Post subject: |
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The tool won't slip that easy on a shallow headed allen screw if the correct tool with a guide tip is used.
About the key size for the screws in the lowers, it's 6mm .....standard for a 8mm allen screw. |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10088 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2016 10:34 am Post subject: |
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I preheat that bolt with a small butane torch and use the Heyco Allen wrench from the factory toolkit with a cheater bar. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Jnclem Big Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jul 2015 Posts: 64 Location: Gunnison, CO.
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Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 8:05 am Post subject: |
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All good tips about removing the Allen bolts. Not a place that I had anticipated any problems. I'm hoping to get to this on Saturday, if I don't have time, it may be 3 or 4 weeks. Either way, I'll let you know how it goes. _________________ '93 K1100LT, '89 R100GS |
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Corkboy Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 26 Aug 2013 Posts: 81 Location: Cork, Ireland
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Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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And put a set of fork gaiters in there when you are at it.
(Somebody had to say it) _________________ '08 K1200GT
'87 K100RS 0140995 (Gone)
'97 K1100LT 0188024 (Gone)
'08 Transalp 700 (Gone) |
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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10088 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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Corkboy wrote: | And put a set of fork gaiters in there when you are at it.
(Somebody had to say it) |
Fork boots are awesome. If you don't know your forks are leaking then you don't have to replace the seals - less maintenance.
If they start leaking enough so you know even when the boots are on then you need to break down and replace the seals. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Jnclem Big Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jul 2015 Posts: 64 Location: Gunnison, CO.
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Posted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 9:28 pm Post subject: |
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Corkboy wrote: | And put a set of fork gaiters in there when you are at it.
(Somebody had to say it) |
Already in the parts pile. _________________ '93 K1100LT, '89 R100GS |
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