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Flying Duck PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005 Posts: 10082 Location: Bumf***, WA
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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 11:28 am Post subject: Cheap Fuel Pump Replacement |
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A long time ago I read the IBMWR tech page on replacing the $370 BMW fuel pump with an Escort/Taurus/Mustang submersible fuel pump.
Here: http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/fuel-pump-install.shtml
With a little research I determined that the Purolator Facet FEP 2042 is an equivalent. Just to have a spare around, I bought one on eBay for $30 a couple of years ago.
Yesterday I got back to working on my K75 project bike. I'd left the fuel pump out for quite a while and it was frozen - FARK!!!
Now I'd have a chance to see if the $30 solution would work. Sure enough, it did.
It only took a few minutes and was very easy to do:
1) Remove the old fuel pump. a) Undo the hose clamp and take the fuel hose off. b) Undo the electrical connections(7mm and 8mm) c) Pop the plastic clips at the front and rear of the mounting ring. (You don't need to undo the 8 nuts on the plastic mounting ring.)
2) Once out of the tank, slide the old fuel pump body out of the incredibly expensive rubber vibration mounting ring.
3) The diameter of the FEP2042 is much less than that of the BMW fuel pump. There's a section of submersible fuel hose that comes with the fuel pump. How convenient. I cut it's length to slightly less than the diameter of the new fuel pump, ran a nylon zip -tie thorugh it and wrapped it around the new fuel pump and secured it with the zip-tie. With a few minutes of careful cramming I was able to get it nicely lodged in the vibration mounting ring.
4) Attach the pre-filter that comes with it to the bottom of the new pump. If you fold it up a bit it will fit nicely in the fuel pump "pocket" of the gas tank. Insert your new fuel pump assembly into the fuel pump hole in the tank and make sure the clips pop into place.
5) The nozzle on the top of the fuel pump has a slightly larger diameter than the BMW one but the hose will fit over it. The IBMWR instructions say that the BMW hose clamp is too small to work. Not true. If you drop the hose clamp on first and then slide the fuel hose on you can use the old hose clamp.
6) Wire it up. Cut the ring terminals off of the black and yellow fuel pump wires from the tank. Put female blade connectors on each wire and crimp carefully. I used bare metal ones - who knows if the plastic on covered ones would dissolve in gas. Attach the black wire (ground) to the narrower blade terminal on the fuel pump. Attach the yellow wire to the wider blade terminal.
Vroom, vroom....... and off you go.
I have a temporary tank on that bike now. When I move the real, freshly painted tank onto the bike and have my new fuel pump out I'll try to remember to take some pictures.
The price of these fuel pumps has gone up drastically. Now they're a whopping $36.95 on eBay!
If you're the paranoid type who likes to travel with one of everything under the sun (Shogs ) this fuel pump wouldn't take up very much room and you could take one along as a backup. _________________ 93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
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Stoked Steve Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 01 Sep 2004 Posts: 1402 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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Posted: Wed Apr 01, 2009 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | 1) Remove the old fuel pump. a) Undo the hose clamp and take the fuel hose off. b) Undo the electrical connections(7mm and 8mm) c) Pop the plastic clips at the front and rear of the mounting ring. (You don't need to undo the 8 nuts on the plastic mounting ring.)
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D'oh! I just re-learned that for the second time! I needed to pull the fuel pump and sender unit in order for the tank repair guy to do his magic and seal up my tank. After about the fourth nut removed and much cursing and skinned knuckles, I was attempting to yank the fuel line off to get better access to the last nut when the whole thing "popped" out of the bracket, conveniently breaking one of the clips, double D'oh! D'oh! I learned this a few years ago the first time I was removing the fuel pump to change the filter bag, but had since forgotten it!
About $25 later, a new plastic retainer thingy mabob is on it's way.
"We learn more from our failures than our successes." Quote by someone smarter than me. _________________ Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom |
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Phil Marvin Rider in the Sky
Joined: 03 Apr 2003 Posts: 1389 Location: El Paso, Texas, USA
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Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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Hi, Steve,
You should have asked. I have one, brand new, as well as the later version (for the 43mm diameter pump) of the rubber vibration damper. _________________ Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP |
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wahlspyder
Joined: 03 Jun 2010 Posts: 3 Location: Indiana
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Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2010 8:59 am Post subject: Shimming pump |
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Just replaced my dead Bosch unit with one of these pumps. It works perfectly. Instead of chancing the zip tie dissolving in gasoline, I bought 2 pieces of gas filler neck tube hose from O'reilly auto parts. One fits the pump, the other the rubber sleeve. Cut about a one inch piece from each hose, nestled one inside the other, and "voila". Works great! _________________ 1993 K1100LT
1995 R1100R |
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Splund Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Jun 2009 Posts: 38 Location: Scotland, UK.
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Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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Life, LIFE... the monstor lives... muha muha muhahaha
After ignoring the dead beast for a year I finally resolved to breath life back into her. Knowing there was no fuel pump priming noise when switching the ignition on I either had a dead pump or an electrical fault in delivering the neccesary electrons. After a days troubleshooting I diagnosed that the fuel pump was dead, jammed solid as it turned out the strainer was torn and I guess grit got sucked in and terminated the pump. So this is when I discovered that the pump costs 350.00 USD or about 250.00GBP, gulp.
"Search the web" I heard someone say and low I find tales of woe, wahoe and woah. I decided I wanted an original part, but second hand would do. It took a bit of digging around to find the correct reference but in short any fuel injected bike BMW built between 1993 and 2004 used the same fuel pump. The vibration isolation mount differs between bikes, but the actual pump is the same. So, if like me you were trying to find a replacement pump from a breaker, you can widen your search to the following list of bikes.
Fuel pump:16141341231
R1100 GS, R, RS, RT, S
R1150 GS, RT, RS
R850 R
K1100 LT, RS
Check your suppliers returns policy just in case my information is wrong before you buy any parts. I won't be liable for you receiving an incorrect pump. _________________ "04 Suzuki SV650S (sold)
"94 BMW K1100LTIC |
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Grunter Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Sep 2015 Posts: 367 Location: North East England
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Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 7:31 am Post subject: Replacement fuel Pumps |
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I found out recently that the fuel pump used on Audi A3/4 cars is identicle to the one fitted to BMW K series. The big difference is the price. A non BMW unit is about 60% of the BMW Price but the Bosch part numbers are the same......
Likewise the starter motor which BMW charge fortune for is identicle to some fitted to Peugeot and Rrenault cars. (The smaller models) Just check the part numbers. |
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ffbikersa
Joined: 17 Jul 2017 Posts: 14 Location: Bosnia-Herzegovina
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Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 4:21 pm Post subject: Also in Peugeot and Opel/Vauxhall models |
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At some other forum I found information how fuel pumps from BMW 318 (model year not mentioned) and Peugeot 205 GTi 1.6 from 1987-88 also fit. Before I installed in K 100 LT the fuel pump from Opel Kadett - and those were sold in the UK as Vauxhall Astra.
Cheers,
Tarik _________________ 1995 K 1100 RS
in Sarajevo,
Bosnia-Herzegovina |
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Grunter Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 30 Sep 2015 Posts: 367 Location: North East England
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Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 8:19 am Post subject: alternative fuel pumps |
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The fuel pumps from the Audi A3 series have the same Bosch part number as the K bikes and will fit directly. In UK they cost around £60 from an Audi dealer. However be careful with early models because there was a change in design.
It may be worth checking Volkswagen Golf/Polo part numbers too as the German manufacturers seem to use a lot of common electrical parts.
(apart from dodgy emission modules!) _________________ 1997 K1100LT
1994 R1100RS |
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