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Luggage repair

 
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Garthhh



Joined: 08 Mar 2014
Posts: 11
Location: Mariposa Ca

PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 3:46 pm    Post subject: Luggage repair Reply with quote

the right bag is cracked from a tipover
I could bolt/rivet some black abs[plastic] behind/inside
any other methods?
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Rafal
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Jan 2009
Posts: 257
Location: Wroclaw, Poland

PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi!

Try welding, those plastics material can be welded. I have in one of my panniers 2 strips of duck tape - works fine, no leak until now Wink.

Best regards,
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K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone Sad, but not to far Smile.

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whyoldbill
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Posts: 440
Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I concur with the welding recommendation.
I have one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Urethane-Supply-Company-Mini-Weld-5600HT/dp/B000GKDMHW
Pricey, yes, but handier than pockets in underwear. I use mine quite often.
Some steel screen melted into the area surrounding the break will reinforce it nicely.
Shop around on the 'net, you can find that kit for about $150 on sale sometimes.

Bill
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The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton
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Rafal
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Jan 2009
Posts: 257
Location: Wroclaw, Poland

PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 2:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Always One can search for workshop fixing bumpers or ask in motorcycle garage. It is quite popular equipment - plastic welder.

Best regards,
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Rafal
K1100RS is a real beast (in Marrakesh Red)
K75S is a real beauty - she has gone Sad, but not to far Smile.

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Garthhh



Joined: 08 Mar 2014
Posts: 11
Location: Mariposa Ca

PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whyoldbill wrote:
I concur with the welding recommendation.
I have one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Urethane-Supply-Company-Mini-Weld-5600HT/dp/B000GKDMHW
Pricey, yes, but handier than pockets in underwear. I use mine quite often.
Some steel screen melted into the area surrounding the break will reinforce it nicely.
Shop around on the 'net, you can find that kit for about $150 on sale sometimes.

Bill


thanks Bill
using screen for reinforcment seems reasonable
probably more like
www.harborfreight.com/welding/plastic-welders/80-watt-iron-plastic-welding-kit-60662.html
I can use a router speed control to adjust the heat
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whyoldbill
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Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Posts: 440
Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

much cheaper, for sure, but it lacks that awesome blow-molded carrying case...

If Harbor Freight had that when I bought mine, I'd have definitely opted for the cheap route.
I tried the hot-air plastic welder that they sell first. That was an exercise in frustration.
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The desired effect is what you get when you improve your interplanetary funksmanship - George Clinton
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exavid
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Apr 2014
Posts: 72
Location: Medford, OR

PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 12:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ABS cement is the stuff to repair this plastic with. The black gooey stuff from the hardware store used to join black ABS drain pipe. Cheap and it forms a chemical weld instead of surface adhesion like most glues. I've used it on quite a few Goldwings in my old shop. Apply the stuff in thin coats rather than one thick one because it can eat too deeply into the plastic surface and will take a long time to cure. A thin coat will cure faster and not soften the substrate plastic.
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2013 C650GT
1995 K1100LT

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Garthhh



Joined: 08 Mar 2014
Posts: 11
Location: Mariposa Ca

PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

exavid wrote:
ABS cement is the stuff to repair this plastic with. The black gooey stuff from the hardware store used to join black ABS drain pipe. Cheap and it forms a chemical weld instead of surface adhesion like most glues. I've used it on quite a few Goldwings in my old shop. Apply the stuff in thin coats rather than one thick one because it can eat too deeply into the plastic surface and will take a long time to cure. A thin coat will cure faster and not soften the substrate plastic.
\

ABS cement has some merit
especially since I have lots of styrene sheets to reinforce with

I'll post back when this job hits the top of the list which may be a few weeks or months
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exavid
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 22 Apr 2014
Posts: 72
Location: Medford, OR

PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I first had to repair a badly cracked Goldwing saddlebag several years ago I wasn't sure what adhesive to use on the stuff. I tried test samples of expoxy type cements such as JB Weld, Marine Tex and some other types of glue along with ABS cement. ALL of them but one would pop off the piece of ABS plastic I had daubed them on with a bit of prying with a knife. The only exception was the blob of ABS cement, it just wouldn't pry loose period. I could cut it off with a chisel and mallet but it didn't break at the glue line the stuff acted like it was a part of the original plastic. Since that time I've done quite a few plastic repairs in my old shop on Goldwings that I was refurbishing for resale. One real nice thing is the stuff is inexpensive (cheap).
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2013 C650GT
1995 K1100LT

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Nickh



Joined: 20 May 2010
Posts: 22
Location: Darkest Somerset, U.K.

PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a soldering (I think you guys call it sodor) iron with a flat tip on the end, the sort that the arty types use to scorch names and letters onto wood with. I placed some similar plastic on the cracks on the inside of the luggage and keeping an eye on the outside I melted it in to the cracks.

This left a horrible rough mess on the inside, which was easily sanded flat and smooth using progressively higher grades of sandpaper.

They don't leak either !
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If you don't ask . . you don't get.
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Garthhh



Joined: 08 Mar 2014
Posts: 11
Location: Mariposa Ca

PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nickh wrote:
I used a soldering (I think you guys call it sodor) iron with a flat tip on the end, the sort that the arty types use to scorch names and letters onto wood with. I placed some similar plastic on the cracks on the inside of the luggage and keeping an eye on the outside I melted it in to the cracks.

This left a horrible rough mess on the inside, which was easily sanded flat and smooth using progressively higher grades of sandpaper.

They don't leak either !


we call it a soldering iron

I have used different irons for things like
patching fiberglass reinforced teflon belts
urethane drive bands
Hdpe parts
on someone elses dime, so I would use what was available

in a pinch one can a piece of sheetmetal & a torch
too much heat or extended working times will cause the plastic to get brittle [cracks]
too little rough surfaces or too little penetration
some repairs may need to have a backing plate [chill bar] used to keep the distortion to a minimum.

Starting over a few years down the road I'm seeing an 80watt iron being the basic building block.
I haven't found a source of tips yet
I could probably make some out of bronze & a tig welder should I come across a used stained glass iron

I have a 93lt, so it's not new or in pristine condition, so I don't feel constrained to stock things
I removed the handlebar cover, which will provide plenty of filler
I will probably try using the abs cement method on a crack right on the edge of the case
I bought new hinges from the online shop out of vegas
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