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drive shaft slipping?
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1993k1100rs



Joined: 30 Aug 2013
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 6:34 pm    Post subject: drive shaft slipping? Reply with quote

Not sure if this is the correct place. So Im out with some others for a ride today. I accelerate to pass a car and it seems as if the rpms are goin up but the speed isnt. This is around 90 to 100 mph. I live in New Mexico so there isnt much traffic. New to BMW so not familiar. Is it possible to have a slipping Drive shaft. It really doesnt seem like a clutch thing.



1993 k1100rs
35k on the clock
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suppose it's possible for the rubber torque insert of the drive shaft to come loose, but I've never heard of that happening before, where as the clutch slipping is very possible under load, and can be cause by many factors.

Check your cable free play adjustment, and look for debris(rocks) etc in and around the clutch lever at the back of the transmission. Sometimes something can get wedged in behind the lever and prevent the clutch mechanism from operating correctly.

Also something to look into, with only 35K it sounds like it sat a lot, it's possible that the clutch lever needle bearings could be dried/rusted/gummed up and binding the lever and not allowing it to fully release.
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1993k1100rs



Joined: 30 Aug 2013
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its really weird. I didnt peg it as clutch as it pulls fine from lower speeds. Someone with an 2001 r100 has said something about the rubber in the shaft. Not sure about that. would have thought it to be solid metal from engine to drive.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, there is a rubber insert in the front half of the shaft. In an automotive application the "torque give" point is a spring mechanism built into the clutch disk. The disk on a k-bike is solid, so the "give point" was put in the drive shaft.
Usually though when it gives out, it gives out and the shaft needs replaced.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At lower RPMs it has less torque so it is possible that it's the clutch slipping. At 35K it shouldn't be though. Unless it sat long enough for the clutch O-ring dry, crack and leak so it is starting to oil the clutch.

Check the weep hole at the front bottom of the transmission for leaking oil.
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your symptoms sound just like mine a few years ago.....(I cut and pasted my post from back then)

Quote:
Then I was riding with another member- Saltcreek- and did a downshift to pass a slower moving vehicle. Cranked the throttle and the revs went up too fast for my road speed.

This was what I found....("O" ring on right side- hard as a rock)

Replaced the rear engine seal and clutch disc.



The whole thread is here- my post is halfway down the 1st page.

http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12018&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=clutch+saltcreek
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1993k1100rs



Joined: 30 Aug 2013
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So. If I get this right I would be looking to buy the front drive shaft? Frankly I would think it could be only this or clutch. The clutch holds fine through shifting all gears and I just noticed this at high speed around 55-6k rpm on acceleration. Engine rev, no acceleration.
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

5500-6 is where max torque is on the power curve - and in higher gears the clutch is "working harder"


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86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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1993k1100rs



Joined: 30 Aug 2013
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thx. Very good info. Ill check it out tomorrow and report back.

Again, Thx for the help.
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What Flying Duck just posted is exactly what I experienced.
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, do not slip it like that very much or you will glaze the clutch plates and they'll have to be replaced. $$$$$$$
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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1993k1100rs



Joined: 30 Aug 2013
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SugarHillCTD wrote:
Your symptoms sound just like mine a few years ago.....(I cut and pasted my post from back then)

Quote:
Then I was riding with another member- Saltcreek- and did a downshift to pass a slower moving vehicle. Cranked the throttle and the revs went up too fast for my road speed.

This was what I found....("O" ring on right side- hard as a rock)

Replaced the rear engine seal and clutch disc.



The whole thread is here- my post is halfway down the 1st page.

http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12018&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=clutch+saltcreek



Thx for input. completely missed your post earlier. Ill read that thread.


Thx again
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1993k1100rs



Joined: 30 Aug 2013
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A bit of an update. After reading through some suggested threads here and abroad I believe the O-ring is the problem.

The symptoms:
Around 100-110 If I get on it there is some "clutch slippage"
I noticed a small bit of oil on the weep hole.
The clutch cable was adjusted buy BMW 2000 miles ago.

Would anyone come to a different conclusion.

How many hrs am I looking at to complete this? I dont have a lift. I am able to roll spaghetti onto a fork using a spoon but have never rebuilt an engine.
Should the clutch plate be replaced at the same time (35k on the clock).
The clutch doesn't slip any other time.


PS Has anyone used the despised Harbor Freight lift?

Thx for the input and help
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH

PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1993k1100rs wrote:
A bit of an update. After reading through some suggested threads here and abroad I believe the O-ring is the problem.

The symptoms:
Around 100-110 If I get on it there is some "clutch slippage"
I noticed a small bit of oil on the weep hole.
The clutch cable was adjusted buy BMW 2000 miles ago.

Would anyone come to a different conclusion.

How many hrs am I looking at to complete this? I dont have a lift. I am able to roll spaghetti onto a fork using a spoon but have never rebuilt an engine.
Should the clutch plate be replaced at the same time (35k on the clock).
The clutch doesn't slip any other time.


PS Has anyone used the despised Harbor Freight lift?

Thx for the input and help


Well, it took me 2 solid days working by myself on my Harbor Freight Lift. Clutch plate (friction) for sure needs replaced. Pressure plate if it is showing burn signs. Might as well think about replacement of the rear seal while you are in there. Don't forget to lube the splines.

I am ok with the lift. For the price I have no bitches. As a matter of fact I just picked up a Harbor Freight wheel chock to mount on the lift.
Jeff
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1993k1100rs



Joined: 30 Aug 2013
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well crap. an update to the update. Its gear oil NOT engine oil. I was just at the BMW Dealer getting an oil filter and wrench. I was talking to the service mgr and we went out to look at the bike. He checked the weep hole. Low and behold gear oil.

This bike was on display in the showroom for 7yr so they know the bike.

Anyhow what gasket is it that would leak gear oil? How long would it take to replace it? Ect.....

Edit:
From looking around it appears to be the same amount of time to fix this as doing the o-ring
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Help should be on the way-

Shogs? Drake?

To the courtesy phone please.......
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getlunch
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Joined: 14 Mar 2008
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Location: seattle

PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two possible culprits, input shaft seal and clutch pushrod seal.

Input shaft seal is number 2 and clutch pushrod seal is number 12.
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMid/B0000546.png?v=04302013

Most likely culprit is clutch pushrod seal. The gear oil sneaks by the seal, traveling down the shaft, contaminating the clutch plate, causing the slippage. In my mind though if there is enough oil to leak out the weep hole then it may be the input seal. My local dealership wanted $250.00 to replace all five seals on the transmission if I dropped the box off, picking it up the next day.

I did it myself, not overly difficult, using the Clymer manual and internet, working way my through it. It only took me a year because I started and stopped due to life getting in the way. If I did it now the seals would only take 1-2 hours once the transmission is off, not including the time needed for the gear assemblies to ice down in the freezer.

Based on my knowledge gained by lurking here and there, getting everything apart and back together for spline lube/clutch o-ring replacement is 6-10 hours depending on how often one has done the procedure.
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1993k1100rs



Joined: 30 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like I got some work ahead of me. Kinda sux the dealership did a spline lube 2k miles ago.
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Corkboy
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Joined: 26 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1993k1100rs wrote:
Looks like I got some work ahead of me. Kinda sux the dealership did a spline lube 2k miles ago.


Look on the bright side, at least none of the bolts should be seized/striped/corroded.
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