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U Joint Failure
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10085
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

skdonlan wrote:
Part three, as Steven Tyler once sang, “I’m back, back in the saddle again!”

The bike is re-assembled and seems to be functioning normally. On Friday, I received the last few parts I needed, the new rubber boots and pivot pin. (Still waiting on the rubber plug that goes in the rear loose bearing allen bolt, back ordered from Germany).


This reminded me of something. My RS has one but my LT never did. Just looked it up - it's only an RS part. Weird.

Quote:
the retaining clip for the inner rubber boot. This thing was a major pain in the ass.


Yes, it's a PITA. Not a great design IMO. What I've found works well is inserting the boot and then compressing/closing the clip with needlenose pliers. Then put it in near the groove carefully and let it expand.

Quote:
then tried to place the swing arm, but could not get it past the clutch cable to save my life.


I always just pull the clutch cable through the tranny hole when disassembling. Then put it back in after the swing arm in on. You need to be careful not to tear the boot though.

Quote:
After I got the boot clamps attached, I had to re-install the bearing pivot plates and pins. That was fairly easy, but they only call for 7NM on the “loose bearing” pins which is not much. I found that I had to tighten them up and then back them off a bit as they were binding. Then the lock nuts hopefully will keep them in place.


Yep. If you ever need to reassemble and don't have a torque wrench handy you can just tighten it up and then back off a smidge. The purpose of the light torque is so the pivot pin is holding the bearing in place but not smushing the bearing. I always put a drop or two of blue Loctite on both the pivot pin and the locknut.

Good to hear you're up and running again. Very Happy
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Stoked Steve
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Sep 2004
Posts: 1402
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
And hopefully some thread locker.


Yep, I used Red thread locker where ever it was called for in the manual.
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Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom
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rydor
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 16 Nov 2006
Posts: 1304
Location: Southern Illinois, U.S.A.

PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

YAY glad ur back ridin Very Happy
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3119
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 11:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job there Steve.
Save those pics, (except the shower shot). Maybe Duck could put them in the Tech Stickie's section for a DS removal and reinstall thread.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
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Stoked Steve
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 01 Sep 2004
Posts: 1402
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went out for a longer ride this morning. The bike is sweet! I never realized how harsh the slack in the old U-joint was, it was always somewhat abrupt when appling or leting off the throtttle. Now it's nice and smooth and the shifting feels better.

This weekend is my birthday and I couldn't think of a better present than to have my bike back in good running order!
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Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom
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Mystic Red
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2330
Location: Twin Lakes Idaho

PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2009 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool! And happy B-Day.
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Gary Bennett
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 06 Jun 2005
Posts: 127
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:55 am    Post subject: Re: U Joint Failure Reply with quote

[quote="Sonu"]
skdonlan wrote:


F.Y.I. Paul Glaves has an excellent article in BMW ON (May 2009 issue) on Drive shaft operation and Maintenance.

Sanjiv


How can I access the details of this article? When I click on May 2009 issue, it only opens up the front cover and table of contents in a PDF file.
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'94 K1100RS
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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Posts: 982
Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 2:55 pm    Post subject: Documentation ??? anyone ?? Reply with quote

Good morning guys...

Hey... after reading this thread thru several times, (great work by the way ) and after having just completed a spline/tranni lube on my 'ol 76 R100/7 (simple by comparison ) I was wondering if anyone has ever done a documented procedure for forum members on "just how" one does a spline/tranni lube on these "k" bikes ?? I'll have to do it either this Winter or next Spring and a procedure document would be great. Having lived with my R100 I have learned that Clymer cant be trusted !! The best source of factual info is always the gurus who have done it already...

Best regards.......// Ernie-NH
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ol-Levi
Brick Rider


Joined: 19 Jul 2011
Posts: 28
Location: Shaw Mo

PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My K1100lt (kaw lady) got a tapping sound when at low power.
Yup driveshaft.
Put her on the center stand, the rear wheel could travel about 2 inches while in gear.

I got it out and yup the leading knuckle has one bucket knackered. Embarassed

To get it out I stuck a 12 mm openend wrench inside the spline end, with a 11mm to keep it held, both wrench ends canted out to catch beyond the splines. Wrapped the handles up with 1 inch nylon web (smurf seatbelt) and gave it a good tug with the strap wrapped around a BFH (big freaking hammer). This got the upper end to snap loose. Wink

Now I need to get the upper knuckle replaced, or something.

The wrenches pulling from the upper side of the splines looks like a good trick.
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97 K1100LT le (Kaw lady) with 119,000 miles.
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