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Guard Dog Moly Gear Oil Additive
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sccommuter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 25 Oct 2011
Posts: 155
Location: Metromess, Tx

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

will be doing a fluid change soon and I thought I would give the WS2 a try. Any one out there have some they want to sell? Enough for FD, tranny and engine fluids. would consider the moly if no WS2 available.
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grant93
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 236
Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gidday,


What about this stuff?, it is readily available here at my local store here in Oz and I am the sort of bloke that tends to over service his bike in regards to oils changes when i get them up and running

http://www.moreyoil.co.nz/moreys-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer/

There is also the Lucus Oil brand of heavy duty oil stabilizer.
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1994 K1100RS
1981 R100RS
1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au
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sccommuter
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 25 Oct 2011
Posts: 155
Location: Metromess, Tx

PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grant,
don't think anyone is following this post anymore as I didn't get a response on my post. I'll be at the Hungry Mother gathering this week and I believe some of the folks attending have tried this. If I find out anything I'll pass it along to you.
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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Posts: 930
Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Hi Grant... Hi "scc..."

I have used the "Guard Dog" in my Airhead ( '76 R100/7 Engine and FD) and in my Jap bikes... but never in the "K".. I have used WS2 in the FD of the "K" and in the tranny, but not in the engine as yet. I have nothing bad to say about either GD or the WS2.. The Guard Dog product has been recommended for years by Oak Oakelshen who is considered to be the foremost authority on Airheads and Oilheads mechanics in the USA, and has been awarded the "Friend of the Mark" by BMW for his dedication, knowledge and competence.

However, before putting any unknown product into the 'works' of any of my machines, I would first research the chemistry and alleged performance of the product and then go to "Bob the Oilman" online and see what he has to offer on the product either pro or con ! I will say, that one product that I use in all my engines, including my truck, is a product called "Engine Restore" which is available in all automotive supply stores. Both my trucks have over 300k miles and are good milage vehicles ( 23 to 26 mpg on 4 cylinders and highway speeds ) plus my oldest Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 has more than 160k and NEVER had an engine overhaul and neither has my '82 Yamaha Virago with 140k..! So I tend to believe the RESTORE is helping to preserve my engines.

With respect to the WS2.. as a research engineer ( almost 40 years ) for a large seal supplier in Germany, I have tested engines, transmissions, drives, and braking components of all types ( mostly cars and heavy equipment, but a few motorcycles for BMW and Ducatti as well) and have used WS2 in the lab to assure that the we were in fact testing the seals and NOT the component into which they were installed. From this, I can say that WS2 out performed MoS2 in all respects with the exception of price. When a system having WS2 in its 'lube pkg' sits idle for several days the particles despite their nano size will develop a WS2 rich cloud at the lowest level of the system. An identical system using MoS2 in its 'lube pkg' will see a 'moly rich' sludge develop which can take considerable time on start-up to be again assimilated by the lube-pkg. In contrast, the nano-particulate cloud of WS2 will be drawn almost instantly back into circulation... One other property is that MoS2 exists mostly in micro-platelet ( not nano particulate form) and these platelets tend to agglomerate anywhere that the 'lube stream' is either idle or low-flow, especially in transmissions..I never saw any evidence that the WS2 accumulated any any region of any system, meaning that the WS2 was always at work in the 'lube pkg'.. For what its worth, those are my observations...

While still living in Germany, I purchased all my WS2 materials in Canada. If you need it, I will dig out the addresses...

Best regards, ride safe.....// Ernie in NH
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grant93
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 236
Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gidday fellas,

sccommuter: no problems at all with that..



Ernie in NH: Many thanks for the detailed response and also written in a way that so I that i could slightly get my head around it all...

Yes please forward thru an address to me when you have a spare minute, that would he handy to keep on file..

Cheers Grant
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1994 K1100RS
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1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au
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whyoldbill
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Joined: 12 Jun 2006
Posts: 439
Location: in the boonies, northwest of Columbus, Ohio

PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought my WS2 (tungsten disulfide) here: http://lowerfriction.com/product-page.php?categoryID=1
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grant93
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 236
Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whyoldbill wrote:
I bought my WS2 (tungsten disulfide) here: http://lowerfriction.com/product-page.php?categoryID=1


Thanks Bill, I have saved the link.
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1994 K1100RS
1981 R100RS
1978 R100RS
1928 Chevrolet tourer

www.montythe1928chevrolet.blogspot.com.au
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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Posts: 930
Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good morning Grant...

I see "W-O-Bill" has already sent you the link for WS2 sourcing:

Ie: <<< http://www.lowerfriction.com/product-page.php?categoryID=1 >>>

Let us know how you made out...!!

Very best regards...( ride safe )...// Ernie in NH
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AMA,, American Deaf Bikers
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'11 G650gs
'95 K1100LT
'76 R100/7
'95 Vulcan-1500
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Neiljohn



Joined: 04 Oct 2009
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't put 'friction modifiers' or reducers in the engine oil, the starter sprag clutch needs to have friction to work!!!

BTDTWTTS!
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'95 K1100LTIC (ex-police) my first road bike after 20 years without a road bike! Now backed up by an F650GS (800 twin) and a Deauville. The '52 G80C isn't a road bike so doesn't count...
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Widget Maker
Brick Rider


Joined: 13 Jul 2010
Posts: 29
Location: Granville, Ohio

PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the sprag clutch statement from experience or a belief? This is a very old thread for no one to have brought it up before with it sounds like numerous people doing it.
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Neiljohn



Joined: 04 Oct 2009
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 5:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Widget Maker wrote:
Is the sprag clutch statement from experience or a belief? This is a very old thread for no one to have brought it up before with it sounds like numerous people doing it.


Very much experience. In 'normal' running you might get away with it, but if the bike ends up on its side whilst running the extra dose the sprag suffered meant it started slipping and not starting. OK I cut a hole and solvent cleaned the sprag enough to get it working, but you can have too much of a good thing!

Moly in the gearbox and final drive however is worth while IME.
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Southern Hampshire, England.

'95 K1100LTIC (ex-police) my first road bike after 20 years without a road bike! Now backed up by an F650GS (800 twin) and a Deauville. The '52 G80C isn't a road bike so doesn't count...
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RAL88
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Joined: 28 Apr 2004
Posts: 727
Location: New Mexico Land of Enchantment and 365 days of riding USA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe I am missing something but sprag clutches are used in automatic transmissions and in motorcycle starters instead of a bendix gear but how by using WS2 in the engine oil does it get to the starter when there is no oil lubrication from the engine to the starter. I say this because I have had nano WS2 in my engine oil with no problems.
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"If it ain't broke, take it apart and make it work better"
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'97' R850GS-R
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Neiljohn



Joined: 04 Oct 2009
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RAL88 wrote:
Maybe I am missing something but sprag clutches are used in automatic transmissions and in motorcycle starters instead of a bendix gear but how by using WS2 in the engine oil does it get to the starter when there is no oil lubrication from the engine to the starter. I say this because I have had nano WS2 in my engine oil with no problems.


The sprag clutch is inside the engine casing, at the top under the air cleaner case, use the search feature above for 'sprag' and follow the photo link to see one through the hole I cut in mine to clean it out. The starter motor is external, but the sprag isn't and is fed with engine oil, any really good anti-friction will stop the sprag's gripping eventually, once the anti-friction layer is thick enough, mine was due to a thicker layer of oil (with anti-friction additive) than normal, following an off and the sprag getting flooded with said oil and being left with a stable thick film the sprag's couldn't grip through...
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Southern Hampshire, England.

'95 K1100LTIC (ex-police) my first road bike after 20 years without a road bike! Now backed up by an F650GS (800 twin) and a Deauville. The '52 G80C isn't a road bike so doesn't count...
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