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Guard Dog Moly Gear Oil Additive
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RAL88
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Joined: 28 Apr 2004
Posts: 733
Location: New Mexico Land of Enchantment and 365 days of riding USA

PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

carp wrote:
How many miles is twice as long as you used to?


For my final drive and transmission I would change it about every 5000 miles so now I will look at going 8-10K depending on how I think its running. I just put the WS2 in the engine oil this spring and I am not sure yet when I am going to change that.
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"If it ain't broke, take it apart and make it work better"
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Sonu
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Joined: 15 Jan 2004
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Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 2:26 pm    Post subject: Another satisfied user :-) Reply with quote

RAL88 wrote:
OK, so here are the amounts you want to use in the FD and Trans.

For the FD use 3 teaspoons which gives you a 5% mix

For the Trans use 5.5 teaspoons gives you a 3% mix

It was recommended to mix it well with a blender before adding so I bought the cheapest blender I could find and used that to mix it with.


Friends,

Just wanted to report back as yet another satisfied user of the MoS2 (both in tranny & final drive). I've had it in for a month now (~1K miles). I noticed an IMMEDIATE improvement in shiftability. Note that I was already running synthetics so the extent of the improvement is truly remarkable. The standard BMW "clunk" is gone and it is near (but not quite) Jap bike flickability. For me this is the perfect response. I dont care for the "hot knife thru butter" flickability of Jap bikes.

Unlike others I have not seen the flicability improve with mileage but I'm happy with it as is.

If I was doing this again I would certainly order the WS2 since it can be used in engine oil as well (I'm a PhD in Materials Science & took a look at the structure of these materials). I happen to have bought the MoS2 so need to stick with it.

Sanjiv
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1997 K1100LT "Ziggy" _GarminGPS_Corbin saddle_K Guards _Hyperlights_Fog lights_Eastern Beaver Relays_Cee Bailey_4"speakers_Michelin PR4's_MoS2_Spiegler lines_TPMS_VDO
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jpberens1994K1100RS
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Joined: 06 Apr 2008
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Location: Hales Corners, WI. / Relocating to central FL.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 2:30 pm    Post subject: MoS2 Reply with quote

Sooooooooooooooo, where & how can that be purchased again?
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Sonu
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Joined: 15 Jan 2004
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Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 3:39 pm    Post subject: Re: MoS2 Reply with quote

jpberens1994K1100RS wrote:
Sooooooooooooooo, where & how can that be purchased again?



https://www.host-manager.com/stores/rosemillcom/product.asp?productid=258465

One box will last you a lifetime Smile Rich was looking to sell some of his excess stuff so please ping him first.

Sanjiv

P.S. Rats that link no longer works. Try this one
http://www.rosemill.com/product_p/bem-molysf-1.htm
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1997 K1100LT "Ziggy" _GarminGPS_Corbin saddle_K Guards _Hyperlights_Fog lights_Eastern Beaver Relays_Cee Bailey_4"speakers_Michelin PR4's_MoS2_Spiegler lines_TPMS_VDO
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jpberens1994K1100RS
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 3:50 pm    Post subject: MoS2 for tran & final drive Reply with quote

Will do on Rich, thanks for link.
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sccommuter
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Joined: 25 Oct 2011
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Location: Metromess, Tx

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

will be doing a fluid change soon and I thought I would give the WS2 a try. Any one out there have some they want to sell? Enough for FD, tranny and engine fluids. would consider the moly if no WS2 available.
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grant93
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Joined: 23 Mar 2013
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Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gidday,


What about this stuff?, it is readily available here at my local store here in Oz and I am the sort of bloke that tends to over service his bike in regards to oils changes when i get them up and running

http://www.moreyoil.co.nz/moreys-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer/

There is also the Lucus Oil brand of heavy duty oil stabilizer.
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sccommuter
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Joined: 25 Oct 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Grant,
don't think anyone is following this post anymore as I didn't get a response on my post. I'll be at the Hungry Mother gathering this week and I believe some of the folks attending have tried this. If I find out anything I'll pass it along to you.
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Ernie-NH
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Joined: 14 Oct 2009
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Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Hi Grant... Hi "scc..."

I have used the "Guard Dog" in my Airhead ( '76 R100/7 Engine and FD) and in my Jap bikes... but never in the "K".. I have used WS2 in the FD of the "K" and in the tranny, but not in the engine as yet. I have nothing bad to say about either GD or the WS2.. The Guard Dog product has been recommended for years by Oak Oakelshen who is considered to be the foremost authority on Airheads and Oilheads mechanics in the USA, and has been awarded the "Friend of the Mark" by BMW for his dedication, knowledge and competence.

However, before putting any unknown product into the 'works' of any of my machines, I would first research the chemistry and alleged performance of the product and then go to "Bob the Oilman" online and see what he has to offer on the product either pro or con ! I will say, that one product that I use in all my engines, including my truck, is a product called "Engine Restore" which is available in all automotive supply stores. Both my trucks have over 300k miles and are good milage vehicles ( 23 to 26 mpg on 4 cylinders and highway speeds ) plus my oldest Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 has more than 160k and NEVER had an engine overhaul and neither has my '82 Yamaha Virago with 140k..! So I tend to believe the RESTORE is helping to preserve my engines.

With respect to the WS2.. as a research engineer ( almost 40 years ) for a large seal supplier in Germany, I have tested engines, transmissions, drives, and braking components of all types ( mostly cars and heavy equipment, but a few motorcycles for BMW and Ducatti as well) and have used WS2 in the lab to assure that the we were in fact testing the seals and NOT the component into which they were installed. From this, I can say that WS2 out performed MoS2 in all respects with the exception of price. When a system having WS2 in its 'lube pkg' sits idle for several days the particles despite their nano size will develop a WS2 rich cloud at the lowest level of the system. An identical system using MoS2 in its 'lube pkg' will see a 'moly rich' sludge develop which can take considerable time on start-up to be again assimilated by the lube-pkg. In contrast, the nano-particulate cloud of WS2 will be drawn almost instantly back into circulation... One other property is that MoS2 exists mostly in micro-platelet ( not nano particulate form) and these platelets tend to agglomerate anywhere that the 'lube stream' is either idle or low-flow, especially in transmissions..I never saw any evidence that the WS2 accumulated any any region of any system, meaning that the WS2 was always at work in the 'lube pkg'.. For what its worth, those are my observations...

While still living in Germany, I purchased all my WS2 materials in Canada. If you need it, I will dig out the addresses...

Best regards, ride safe.....// Ernie in NH
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grant93
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Joined: 23 Mar 2013
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Location: Victoria - Australia

PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gidday fellas,

sccommuter: no problems at all with that..



Ernie in NH: Many thanks for the detailed response and also written in a way that so I that i could slightly get my head around it all...

Yes please forward thru an address to me when you have a spare minute, that would he handy to keep on file..

Cheers Grant
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whyoldbill
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Joined: 12 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought my WS2 (tungsten disulfide) here: http://lowerfriction.com/product-page.php?categoryID=1
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grant93
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whyoldbill wrote:
I bought my WS2 (tungsten disulfide) here: http://lowerfriction.com/product-page.php?categoryID=1


Thanks Bill, I have saved the link.
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1994 K1100RS
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Ernie-NH
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Joined: 14 Oct 2009
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 28, 2013 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good morning Grant...

I see "W-O-Bill" has already sent you the link for WS2 sourcing:

Ie: <<< http://www.lowerfriction.com/product-page.php?categoryID=1 >>>

Let us know how you made out...!!

Very best regards...( ride safe )...// Ernie in NH
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Neiljohn



Joined: 04 Oct 2009
Posts: 24

PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't put 'friction modifiers' or reducers in the engine oil, the starter sprag clutch needs to have friction to work!!!

BTDTWTTS!
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Widget Maker
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Joined: 13 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the sprag clutch statement from experience or a belief? This is a very old thread for no one to have brought it up before with it sounds like numerous people doing it.
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Neiljohn



Joined: 04 Oct 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 5:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Widget Maker wrote:
Is the sprag clutch statement from experience or a belief? This is a very old thread for no one to have brought it up before with it sounds like numerous people doing it.


Very much experience. In 'normal' running you might get away with it, but if the bike ends up on its side whilst running the extra dose the sprag suffered meant it started slipping and not starting. OK I cut a hole and solvent cleaned the sprag enough to get it working, but you can have too much of a good thing!

Moly in the gearbox and final drive however is worth while IME.
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'95 K1100LTIC (ex-police) my first road bike after 20 years without a road bike! Now backed up by an F650GS (800 twin) and a Deauville. The '52 G80C isn't a road bike so doesn't count...
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RAL88
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Joined: 28 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe I am missing something but sprag clutches are used in automatic transmissions and in motorcycle starters instead of a bendix gear but how by using WS2 in the engine oil does it get to the starter when there is no oil lubrication from the engine to the starter. I say this because I have had nano WS2 in my engine oil with no problems.
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Rich

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and make it work better"
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Neiljohn



Joined: 04 Oct 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RAL88 wrote:
Maybe I am missing something but sprag clutches are used in automatic transmissions and in motorcycle starters instead of a bendix gear but how by using WS2 in the engine oil does it get to the starter when there is no oil lubrication from the engine to the starter. I say this because I have had nano WS2 in my engine oil with no problems.


The sprag clutch is inside the engine casing, at the top under the air cleaner case, use the search feature above for 'sprag' and follow the photo link to see one through the hole I cut in mine to clean it out. The starter motor is external, but the sprag isn't and is fed with engine oil, any really good anti-friction will stop the sprag's gripping eventually, once the anti-friction layer is thick enough, mine was due to a thicker layer of oil (with anti-friction additive) than normal, following an off and the sprag getting flooded with said oil and being left with a stable thick film the sprag's couldn't grip through...
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Southern Hampshire, England.

'95 K1100LTIC (ex-police) my first road bike after 20 years without a road bike! Now backed up by an F650GS (800 twin) and a Deauville. The '52 G80C isn't a road bike so doesn't count...
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