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Throttle & Brakes

 
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molerat
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 14 May 2012
Posts: 69
Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 11:44 pm    Post subject: Throttle & Brakes Reply with quote

Hey all....again,

So a couple of questions concerning the above subject, since it is my first Beemer bike and you guys have been a great help so far.

1. How sensitive should the throttle be? When I roll on, the bike is jerky in the first half second or so and the same when I completely roll off the throttle quickly. It's not smooth at all. Is this normal for the K1100 or is there something I need to do?

2. I noticed a little lateral play in the rear brake discs today, is this normal, and when moving slowly I can hear the rear discs or pads (not sure which) rubbing against something, are they warped, thats what it sounds like?

Thanks again everyone,
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1995 K1100 LT
1952 HRD Vincent Black Shadow, Series C
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Inge K.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Apr 2011
Posts: 458
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 1:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Throttle & Brakes Reply with quote

molerat wrote:
2. I noticed a little lateral play in the rear brake discs today,


If you got a floating disc at rear, it`s non genuine.

At front it is floating discs, and a little sideways play is quite normal, but shouldn`t be any play in other directions.
If you got play in other directions, check the shouldered bushings between the disc and disc hub, these are normal wear parts.

Inge K.
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Tim (Midland Section)
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Joined: 08 Apr 2005
Posts: 960
Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 6:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Throttle & Brakes Reply with quote

molerat wrote:
Hey all....again,
1. How sensitive should the throttle be? When I roll on, the bike is jerky in the first half second or so and the same when I completely roll off the throttle quickly. It's not smooth at all. Is this normal for the K1100 or is there something I need to do?


No should be as smooth as the proverbial.
Check in no particular order:-
Plugs & Ht leads. Especially check caps are fully seated DAMHIK.
Throttle Position sensor (TPS) do a search on here, lots of info.
Injectors, less likely.
Air leaks, perished vacuum take off caps
Throttle balance, do a search on here, lots of info.
HTH
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molerat
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 14 May 2012
Posts: 69
Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tim,

What is an HT lead? I will replace the plugs and search the other stuff you suggested.
If it is suppose to be as smooth as the proverbial baby butt then I have a problem.
Any other ideas would be welcome. thanks everyone
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Brian

1995 K1100 LT
1952 HRD Vincent Black Shadow, Series C
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robleyd
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Jul 2009
Posts: 398
Location: Murbko, Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HT = High Tension leads, also known as plug leads in some parts of the world Smile
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1996 K1100 LT
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rbm
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 02 Jun 2009
Posts: 115
Location: Toronto

PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jerkiness might also be worn splines offering too much backlash. Have you checked the final drive splines for wear?
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molerat
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 14 May 2012
Posts: 69
Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, silly questions,

Do you have to remove the fairing to replace plugs and do the throttle sync?
From everything i have read the answer is "yes". Just looking at the bike it looks like you have to.
If so, how difficult is it to remove said fairing
I did search for fairing removal and found one thread, not sure I want to tackle that
How difficult is it if I have to?

Thanks again

Brian
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Brian

1995 K1100 LT
1952 HRD Vincent Black Shadow, Series C
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drikko
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Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ

PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 1:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You only need to remove the belly pan from memory, not the whole fairing. Perhaps the lower left bit ie just above the belly pan but it's been a year since I worked on my K so may be wrong about that. You certainly don't have to remove the whole fairing.
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robleyd
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 23 Jul 2009
Posts: 398
Location: Murbko, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 2:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you haven't already, grab yourself a copy of the K1100 service manual - see http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4715

Then look under Section 46, Frame for the page on removing and installing the LT fairing, complete with pictures Very Happy

As Drikko said, you should only need to pull the left lower section of the fairing on an LT. You can get to the plugs without removing the fairing - just remove the cover over the plugs and leads.

If you can distinguish which end of a screwdriver goes towards the screws, you should have little problem pulling the fairing bits off Razz
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin


Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2012 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One challenge with the LT, is the radio, if your bike has it. Most LT's do, but some don't. My '97 didn't come with one, yet my '95 did.
The radio and mounting cage has to come out in order to access the screws that secure the top edge of the lower left fairing. So make sure you have the security code as you will need it to activate the radio when you put it back in.
The Engine bar aslo has to come off if your bike has them.
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