K11 Owners Group

[wengland]

Hi!

I've got Greg Roberts old 1994 K1100LT. He put quite a bit of work into it - rebuilt transmission, regular service, etc. I had the 12K service done last year with extras - all told over 1K in work at Engle Motors. Was planning on keeping it for a few years and getting some good riding in.

Then about 150 miles later it oiled the clutch.

Been sitting for most of a year, waiting for money to come in to fix it. Worst case from Engle was about $1,600 to replace the clutch.

I realize for someone like Paul Glaves, this bike could be kept going for another 124K miles. I'm not Paul.

I also know there is no way of knowing what could happen in the future.

But just for fun - I'm asking y'all: Should I keep the bike, drop upwards of $2,000 fixing it, or should I sell it / part it / dump it in the back yard?

I'm not a wealthy man - if I fix the clutch and another kilobuck thing fails, it sits for another year. I can spend $1500 a year fixin on it, but *only* $1500 a year. Should I anticipate multiple kilobuck repairs a year going forward? So far I'm looking at $2,800 for just over 2,000 miles of ownership.

Is $1.40 a mile a reasonable service cost on these bikes?

I realize most BMW folks will say it's the 'passion' or 'soul', but that doesn't help much when it's laid up for 11.5 months a year waiting for cash to heel the soul.
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1994 K1100LT, 124K and parked, waiting on a $1.29 o-ring.
1998 Ducati so I have something to wrench on
2 cats and a dog
Overland Park, KS

[Tim (Midland Section)]

The only reason the seals go, is they dry out when stood.
IMHO you should fix it & ride it. Get the miles up, $ / mile will drop.

It isn't a hard job to do. The guys & gals on here will talk you through. No special tools needed. Saw horse, trolley jack & hand tools only. Took me a day & the MK2 ABS is a bitch compared to yours, which I guess is ABS1.
Worst bit can be exhaust (header) studs snapping.
If you can spanner (wrench) an I tie, you can do likewise with a Gerry.
Just my 2 pence.
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Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

[jr'sbmw]

Just try to give you my thoughts on part costs and labor. I have pulled the transmissons on 2 K bikes I've owned several times, mostly for spline inspection, rear main seals and once for a bad transmisson. About a year ago, I did my LT seal and clutch replacement. Clutch was $135 to my door(Chicago BMW). Engine rear main seal, o rings for crank and trans maybe $40? plus new fluids. So, do this yourself for $200-250.

I don't know what flat rate is on this job, but I know I can do this in less than an 8 hour day. Obviously, first time though might take you longer. Pay someone for 8 hrs. at? $75 hr = another $600?

As indicated, there is good info here on the forum to help you do this. I would fix it yourself inexpensively as a winter project. My 2 cents.

[Inge K.]

Here is a thread that covers this subject rather good, with a lot of pics.
http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10544

Inge K.

[ljjohns]

Worst case: you undertake the task yourself and get an education in the process with only the minimal investment in parts and sweat and it fails: you can then part it out, sell off the repair parts you couldn't install, breaking more or less even there.
I've been riding for 30 years but until I started digging into my K11's I didn't know how much I didn't know and also how much I could learn.

Larry Johnson
El Paso Tx
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1993 K1100LT (Washington)
1995 K1100LTSE
1996 K1100LTSE (parts)
2003 K1200LTC
1991 K75RT

[Scott_Anderson]

Well, I'm only about 275 miles away, but you are welcome to my garage, tools, and help to get this project done.
I've had the trans off of both my bikes in the last few years, not a real hard task.
A torque wrench is a must for assembly. If you don't own one, some of you local parts stores may offer a "free" loan-a-tool program.
You will have to deal with the ABS 2 modulator, trying to keep it out of the way, unless you remove it. Some leave it, I personally prefer to remove it. You have to remove some of the brake lines anyway, so it's not that much more to remove it.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[Alan Walker]

If you do it yourself I'll ride up and lend a hand, I'm just down in Tulsa. I have a great selection of tools including the torque wrench and the shop manual for the bike. Just pm me if you want some assistance. The bike is definetly worth fixin.
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95 K1100LT Current ride
05 Suzuki DL650 sold
86 Honda Nighthawk 450 sold
76 Honda CB400F sold

[ol-Levi]

You will need a 30mm socket (not the thick ones used for CV work). And torque wrench as noted.

The rear brake master takes a 7mm hex wrench, or Allen wrench. (Or at least my 97 K1100lt uses this size.)
(The toolkit doesn't include this, must be just for brake work.)

If you have a digital camera use it, take photos of EVERYTHING so you can see how it goes back together.
(I didn't photo the front side of the tranny & needed it later.) I spent hours looking for how-the-heck that clutch switch goes; but what I had in my hand was the kickstand switch and not the clutch switch (it is inside the tranny).

There is a set of spring clips that are on the clutch transfer shaft. This is the torque rod that goes from lower clutch cable to left where is pushes the other rod.
Might need a tiny clip removal tool. Mine was too large but I got the prongs over the nubs using a small screwdriver.

Maybe tape/zip-lock baggies for EVERY fastener as it comes off. Taped to whatever part that they go to.

Auto Zone will loan tools, deposit is what the replacement would be.

The plans call for some parts to be used just one time. These are the bolts that hold the clutch basket together and the 30mm hex nut that fastens the clutch basket to engine shaft. (I didn't replace, but probably should have.)

Take your time, check with the list often, search for write-ups here. There are LOTS of them on this board. (I had to do this LOTS of times.)

The tranny and dif will piddle oil on the floor once they are removed. Maybe you will be replacing this gear grease, but easier not to have the mess on the workspace.

I replaced the brake lines while I was at it, front one busted (but in 107000 miles that not any surprise). While having the ABS pump all the way off, doing brake lines was not any worse.

Bleeding the brake systems while going back together is not as bad as I had thought. Figgured; why not replace the old fluid also?

Good time to check the rear shaft splines (maybe that has already been said).
Honda motorcycle spline grease will sub. (Auto stores look at you funny trying to cross that BMW lube number.)

I had to really tug on that rear cover on the ABS box, it had crudded up over the miles. It slips down once the small tab is pushed in.

I hit just about everything with some rust preventer spray on re-assembly.

Enjoy!!
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97 K1100LT le (Kaw lady) with 119,000 miles.

[BMW_Mick]

I found myself in a similar situation last December when the sprag clutch went. For a few reasons I had to get the job done by a local specialist. I asked him to put a new clutch in, new timing chain tensioners and do a major service at the same time. Cost me 1400 uk pounds (about $2200), but when I picked her up I was told that apart from things you might expect like fork seals, everything was in good condition for its age (nearly 19 years) and the 123,000 ish miles.

It sounds like yours has been looked after and to be honest the brick engine is capable of extremely high mileages. I had a 1986 K100RS that did 250,000 and was only scrapped cos the guy who had it after me couldn't be bothered to fit new injectors and wanted a new bike.

As Tim said, the seals tend to fail because they have dried out. IMHO I would fix her and then ride her lots. And where are you going to get an LT for $1500? And if you do, you might get the same problem anyway.

And with the offers of help it could be a chance to fix her up AND check anything else you might be worried about! Now that would be a win/win situation!

Good luck.
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'93 K1100LTSE, ABS1 in Black 'Connie'

[ol-Levi]

And I had to buy a TX25 torks tool for the ABS sensor thing on the rear brake caliper.

Then mid-project had to go out and get a replacement rubber boot for the clutch rod (is at the rear of the tranny where it pushes in).
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97 K1100LT le (Kaw lady) with 119,000 miles.

[ol-Levi]

If I was to do this again, I would for sure loosten the four bolts (8mm hex) that hold the center stand FIRST, before it's teetering on some props or something.
(Don't ask about my dropping it off the blocks or anything.)

The bolts are TIGHT (locktight) and will have to be removed (unless there is a way to keep it on the tranny or something).


This is my 'special tool', a piece of 1/4 inch vinyl tube to remove the clutch rod.
It can be slick with oil and all, and vinyl won't scratch it.

The shiny cylinder to the right is where that boot goes, without pressure from the clutch adjuster it tends to rip the boot via the spring inside.

Below on that pivot rod is one of the circlips mentioned earlier. Felt good getting that part cleaned and good lube on the pivot rod.

Far end (by that electrical connector) is where the clutch cable pulls.

The bolt at bottom center is the adjuster, needed to be turned in (clockwize) several turns tighter once the new pressure plate was in. Something like 1/4 inch or so. (I didn't expect it would be THAT much further in, but is.)
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97 K1100LT le (Kaw lady) with 119,000 miles.

[TMCKRS4V]

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=476934

I was faced with same delima when my D/S & Trans failed.
I was able to install a used (rebuilt trans) + new clutch disc & swing arm bearings for under $650. I am not a wrench but my engineer friend covinced me it was "Plug & Play" . This was 15K ago. Logged 1200 miles last weekend on a ride to Death Valley. I can't afford to pay a mechanic for everything. Bike has almost 108K. The next big ticket item is front rotors. One of the appeals of these old bricks is the low maint. (40K service interval on valves) .

The link above is inspiring... check it out. Good Luck!
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Tom Connolly

91 K100RS4V

Novato, CA

MOA / BMW NorCal / AMA