K11 Owners Group

rkildu · Posted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 11:44 pm Post subject: The clutch O-Ring replacement

Hey all,

I am in the middle of my second full spline lube. I just pulled the drive shaft and swing arm today. This time I intend to replace the O-Ring under the clutch, just because I'm going to be in there. no leaks.

Are there any gotcha's or special instructions for doing this? Bear in mind that I haven't gotten in there yet and I haven't removed the clutch assembly yet either. I know about the clutch assembly balance issue. I read somewhere about a seal ring being installed 'proud'. Is that the main seal or the o-ring?

Thanks
_________________
Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty

Niemand · Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 12:17 am Post subject:

The rear main is what you are referring to being installed proud.

Per service bulletin #2798 (11/17/97) :

"Effective from calendar week 14/97, the shaft sealing ring on production
motorcycles will be installed with a projection of
0.5 + 0.1 mm towards the engine block surface."

Pdf can be found here:

http://hrsbstaff.ednet.ns.ca/bvogel/K100/download/K100-service-bulletins-and%20special-tools/2798%2Epdf

I am preparing to do the same job in the near future.
_________________
Niemand

1994 K1100RS
2023 DR650SE

Number 6 · Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 2:34 am Post subject:

If you change the clutch, change the main seal too, and the input and clutch rod gearbox seals.
_________________
I am not a number, I am a free man.

94 K1100LT

Inge K. · Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 4:16 am Post subject:

The six screws and washers on the outer circumference on the clutch is one time use.
(not unusually some of them snap off, either).
Center nut is also a one time use.

Inge K.

rkildu · Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 4:41 pm Post subject:

OK, I just got the transmission out. There is definitely some oil in the housing. I don't know if it's from the o-ring or the rear main seal. I have the o-ring but not the seal. I also discovered that when I ordered parts I had only received 5 clutch bolts an it requires 6. So I just called and ordered both plus a couple of other parts I discovered I needed, like the grommet on the exhaust hanger and rear brake pads and a starter o-ring.

The good news is that after an expert opinion from a mechanic friend my drive shaft splines and u-joints are in excellent shape, he called then in new condition. That's after 75K miles so I am happy.

Tomorrow I will remove the clutch and see what I can see.

Rod
_________________
Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty

Stoked Steve · Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 7:48 pm Post subject:

I need to tear into mine and do all this as well, thought it would make a good winter project (for our 2 1/2 weeks of it!).

I sure wish one of you guys lived closer to me to walk through it with me. I've gone as far as the drive shaft and housing, but have never messed with the clutch (of any kind) or the transmission.

I've got a slow oil seeping that eventually comes out the drain hole. Only about a drop every week or so, very slow, I've just lived with it. The clutch seems fine, no slippage.

Any pics of your project would be helpful.
_________________
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

rbm · Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 9:27 pm Post subject:

rkildu · Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 10:21 pm Post subject:

Robert,

Thanks for those videos, especially the clutch removal and main seal one. I have a much better idea of what I'm getting into there. It looks like it will be Friday before I can get back to working on mine again.
_________________
Rod Kilduff
97 K1100LT HighLine
82 R100Lufty

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 7:35 am Post subject:

As a general note- once the front wheel is anchored down and there is support under the engine, the transmission/swingarm/final drive can be pulled back as a unit.

I did it by using various wood blocks stacked on top of a furniture dolly- removed everything in the way (Steve- having ABS I makes this easier Very Happy

), unbolted the trans from the bell (clutch) housing and rolled the trans assembly back.

Once you get into it and start to understand what is where and how things actually work it becomes less "scary".

Just try to label various connections that might be confusing when you go to reassemble.

Good luck everyone.

John
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

Sonu · Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 2:09 pm Post subject:

Number 6 · Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 2:31 am Post subject:

Unfortunately those are K100 8 valves videos, everything behind the gearbox is different on the K1100, the stocks exhaust is different too (one piece).
_________________
I am not a number, I am a free man.

94 K1100LT

Jim · Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 3:29 am Post subject:

Well, that's OK - we have some K100 owner's here - and I'm pretty sure when Ted puts the new format up, he'll have separate forums for all the different K bikes. We can keep the vids there for now.
_________________
Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."

wengland · Joined: 01 Jul 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Overland Park, KS

Agreed - thanks, great videos! Confirms that it's worth my money to pay Engle to do it. Smile

I saw at least 4 places I'd hose it up bad.

That being said, it's still 12 weeks till I have said money, so I may just do it for 'fun'.
_________________
1994 K1100LT, 124K and parked, waiting on a $1.29 o-ring.
1998 Ducati so I have something to wrench on
2 cats and a dog
Overland Park, KS

micky77

Doing clutch replacement and wondering do I need to lube the spline connection between clutch housing and engine shaft or is this bathed in engine oil? It is "up steam from the o-ring, which I assume is the seal.

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 5:13 pm Post subject:

Needs low fling grease (Optimol T or Honda stuff) Not too much. The O ring stops the Engine Oil travelling along the crank splines into the clutch. There will be oil streaks up the flywheel if it was NBG but replace it anyway.
HTH
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

Phil Marvin · Posted: Sat Jan 28, 2012 5:25 pm Post subject:

Hi, Mickey77,
You do NOT lubricate the clutch splines AT ALL, nor anything forward of them. If you do, the lubricant is bound to get onto the clutch, causing it to slip and you to have to remove/replace it again. You lubricate (with Honda Moly 60 paste, a 50/50 mix of Honda Moly 60 paste and Wurth Sig 3000 grease, or Guard Dog Moly 25) the gearbox input shaft. When the gearbox is refitted, the shaft splines will mate with the clutch splines. The grease on the shaft splines will then lubricate the clutch splines, and any excess will be pushed BACK towards the gearbox and not forward where it can (will) be slung onto the clutch mating surface.
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

micky77

Thanks for the advice Phil. I"ll pull it apart and clean the guard dog grease off.
Does anyone know an easy way to get the forward rubber boot for the the shaft housing back on. Its the boot that covers the forward splines. Theres just know clearance to get your hand up there.
Thanks in advance.