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SKEEZER
Joined: 23 Aug 2011 Posts: 17 Location: Strathmore AB Canada
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Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 2:17 pm Post subject: seal mate |
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Yes , the boots or gaiters seem to be the ticket and I plan on installing them when the seal's are replaced.
I saw on a thread somewhere that the seals can be replaced without removing the forks from thje tripple tree, is that even possible?
I would remove them to install the gaiters anyway. _________________ A perfect day is Anyday Spent on your Motorcycle.
1993 K1100LT |
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m1ks Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 24 Sep 2009 Posts: 122 Location: Skye, Highlands
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Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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Not possible without cutting the seal, which would destroy the part before it was fitted.
With the bike on mainstand, back end weighted, front wheel off and drop one fork leg at a time you can (carefully), prise the old seal out and slide it up and off the stanchion then replace, however, I've done this and had them leak again almost straightaway, best to strip and clean everything. _________________ I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, de-briefed or numbered! |
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Mystic Red Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 28 Mar 2005 Posts: 2330 Location: Twin Lakes Idaho
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Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 9:38 pm Post subject: Re: seal mate |
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SKEEZER wrote: | Yes , the boots or gaiters seem to be the ticket and I plan on installing them when the seal's are replaced.
I saw on a thread somewhere that the seals can be replaced without removing the forks from thje tripple tree, is that even possible?
I would remove them to install the gaiters anyway. |
Yes,you can do it , no problem. Some say you have to pull from the triple tree. I've done it without removing without any probs. _________________ Scott Hespelt, '94 K11LT
K11 OG #466 |
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SKEEZER
Joined: 23 Aug 2011 Posts: 17 Location: Strathmore AB Canada
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Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 1:47 am Post subject: |
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Thanks . Any Tips would be apprciated. _________________ A perfect day is Anyday Spent on your Motorcycle.
1993 K1100LT |
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SugarHillCTD Site Admin
Joined: 10 Oct 2007 Posts: 4240 Location: Now in Eastern Pennsylvania
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Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 11:21 am Post subject: |
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The SEARCH feature is your friend.
Like this thread
http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6964&highlight=fork+seals
But I came up with this list when I searched "fork seals" specifying only the TECH forum. Many threads there with some good reading.
Good luck.
John _________________ John & Cathy
'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F. |
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SKEEZER
Joined: 23 Aug 2011 Posts: 17 Location: Strathmore AB Canada
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Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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Thats the post I saw. Thanks it will help alot _________________ A perfect day is Anyday Spent on your Motorcycle.
1993 K1100LT |
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m1ks Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 24 Sep 2009 Posts: 122 Location: Skye, Highlands
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Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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So reading that you're still stripping the fork.
In that case what is the point in leaving the stanchion in the yokes? I fail to see the logic in that. _________________ I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, de-briefed or numbered! |
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Scott_Anderson Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006 Posts: 3117 Location: Central Iowa, USA
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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m1ks wrote: | In that case what is the point in leaving the stanchion in the yokes? |
Fewer fasteners to have to remove, and then retorque.
Less chance of dropping and galling the upper stantions.
Don't have to worry about "what height were they at when they came out"
I've replace the seals on both my bikes without removing the upper's from the tripple tree. You just have to be very careful when reinstalling the lowers so as not to damage the seals when installing. You just can't "slam-it-home".
And also NO those e-bay seals from "pyramid" absolutely will not work on the 16V K bikes. 1. they are too thick, and 2 the seal contact surface area is less than the original bmw(marzoochi) seals.
I tried to shave one set down to fit beneath the snap ring and they leaked in less than a year. _________________ Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
1997 R1100RT ZC62149
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.) |
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drikko Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009 Posts: 1966 Location: Brisbane, OZ
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Posted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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Trust me, it's a hell of a lot easier to take the stanchion right out to work on them. Been there done that, I tried to leave them in there but ended up taking them out. _________________ K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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m1ks Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 24 Sep 2009 Posts: 122 Location: Skye, Highlands
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Posted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:14 am Post subject: |
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Scott_Anderson wrote: | m1ks wrote: | In that case what is the point in leaving the stanchion in the yokes? |
Fewer fasteners to have to remove, and then retorque.
Less chance of dropping and galling the upper stantions.
Don't have to worry about "what height were they at when they came out" |
Don't buy that at all, couple extra bolts on the yokes, there's a lot of fork leg, you'd have to be monumentally hamfisted to drop one AND damage the stanchion, what height worry? You do one at a time and either use the other as a guide or refit according to the book! PLUS you get to work on the whole leg in comfort, on a bench at decent height, easier to keep everything spotlessly clean during reassembly, all for the epic effort of undoing two or three more bolts. Each to their own sure, but I know which method I'd use. _________________ I will not be pushed, filed, stamped, indexed, briefed, de-briefed or numbered! |
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diethornig
Joined: 01 Feb 2012 Posts: 8 Location: Berlin, Germany
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Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 11:15 pm Post subject: |
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How's that? Can't get it right. |
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