K11 Owners Group

malcolmt · Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 1:19 pm Post subject: Right Hand switch disasembly

Hi All,

I'm still trying to figure out when I have a dicky contact making the ignition or kill switch.

I took the light/kill switch off and remove the tiny self tappers inside and expected the interal assembly to come out. No luck.

Had a read of Ducks sticky on headlamp switches, from what he said it seems as though I took all the right switches out.

Can anyone whos more familiar with the switch internals give me a few pointers bout how it comes to pieces and I'll make sure its contacts are clean.

Cheers,
Malcolm(t)
Joburg, Souf Efrika
_________________
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A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
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Inge K. · Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 1:57 pm Post subject:

Try this link.

Inge K.

malcolmt · Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 2:11 pm Post subject:

BINGO.

Thanks a mill.
Have saved the file, will take a look at the switch tomorrow.

Malcolm
_________________
******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
******************************

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 2:57 pm Post subject:

malcolmt · Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2011 3:09 pm Post subject:

malcolmt · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 3:05 pm Post subject:

I got the kill switch cleaned nicely. There was little muck in there.
Now some of the idiot lamps in the clocks stay on when the ignition is switched off with the kill switch on. Switching the kill switch off kills the lights. Looking at the diagram the ignition the ignition switch should break the circuit..so if some circuits are staying on the ignition switch isn’t opening or a relay could be sticking.
Next is to check the ignition switch, I’ve found some resources on IBMWR site but nothing specific to the K1100.
Does anyone know how the separate the ignition switch from the barrel and possibly dismantle it to be sure is OK.

Cheers
Malcolm(t)
_________________
******************************
A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
******************************

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 4:07 pm Post subject:

YWIMC
You may not need to do all the following #7 & #8 are salient.
I created this 6 years ago this month.

This guide assumes some mechanical prowess & experience. The idea of the article is to help owners to tackle what at first seems untenable or prohibitively expensive. The job was started after the switch became unreliable electrically & the steering lock sometimes jammed. Total time: - About 2 1/2 hours.

1. You will need: - Allen Key set, 10mm ring spanner, 32mm socket, ratchet drive, electric drill, sharp 8mm bit, 2off 8mm x 30mm allen bolts or new lock security screws, watchmakers screwdriver, flat needle file, tweezers, paper, pen, tray, WD40, cotton buds, grease, big hammer, lump of soft wood approx 15”x 1”x 2” & a Clymer manual.
2. Remove handlebar cover, protect tank with a soft cloth, remove handlebars & lay on tank (not you, the bars).
3. Remove the chrome bar that retains the cables to the yoke.
4. Pull the cables away from the switch area & drill the bolt heads, pressing hard, so that the drill keeps cutting, otherwise the bolt will harden & become “a pig to drill”. My bolts had a depression in the top, which helped keep the drill central.
5. Remove the top yoke, by loosening the 4 clamp bolts & undoing the big nut in the centre. Then whilst holding the lump of wood under the yoke, hammer the wood smartly upwards. The yoke should move reasonably easily if all the clamp bolts are loose enough. Yoke removal is necessary as the lock is nearly five inches long.
6. Remove remains of drilled off bolts from lock.
7. At the bottom of the lock, find a small screw sealed with red paint. Scrape the paint away. Remove the screw completely, DO NOT lose it. Pull the white plastic switch assembly downwards from the bottom of the lock casting.
8. Gently release the cover clips to reveal the switch innards. Clean, regrease & reassemble.
9. Do not refit switch yet.
10. Sitting at a table & in good light, work over the tray, to catch any escaping wards (brass lock bits) & small springs.
11. About 1” down the casting from the key end of the lock, there is a small hole. With the key in the ON position, push the watchmakers screwdriver into said hole & pull the key and the lock barrel out together.
12. Draw a diagram of the lock barrel to show the positions of each ward, remove the key gently, noting that the wards move as the key is extracted. Lift the wards out one at a time, noting the stamped number on the side of them & which slot they occupied.
13. Clean & lightly file the flat face of the wards to remove any burrs. Clean barrel, reassemble, leaving the bottom one (a different shape from the rest) out & lightly spray with WD40. Insert key, ensure that the wards move to be level with the barrel. If not, you have them out of order.
14. Slightly spread the legs of the omitted one & re-fit, when pushed in it should stay down.
15. If all is well, put the barrel back in, turn the key to steering lock position, then push the screwdriver into the hole to release the last ward. This one holds the barrel in place. The barrel MUST NOT come out when the key is removed. Check for normal operation.
16. Grease the mechanism in the bottom of the lock.
17. Now refit the switch into the casting, lining up the odd shaped pin with the hole & the plastic tang with the slot.
18. Check for correct electrical operation.
19. Offer lock to yoke, then refit yoke, ensuring that ALL the cables that should be, are between the fork legs.
20. Fit new bolts to lock.
21. As ever, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
22. Wash hands & pat yourself on the back for your achievement & a saving of about £100 in labour charges.

Tim
Midland Section
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485

Inge K. · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 5:55 pm Post subject:

Some pictures from a K100RS/16V which have an identical ignition switch.

Inge K.

Stoked Steve · Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:01 pm Post subject:

Excellent write up Tim! It should be a sticky in the Tech section, if it isn't already. (Mods?)
_________________
Steve
Virginia Beach, VA
93 K1100RS Mystic Red SOLD
12 Suzuki DL650A VStrom

Tim (Midland Section) · Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 3:16 pm Post subject:

Thanks.
Replacement switches are still available 61322305292

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/ShowImage.aspx?image=Diagrams/B0001681.png&rnd=19110387

Check also the wires to the switch, tis common for them to fail inside the insulation. Check by trying to stretch them. Faulty ones will pull apart.
One can test with a multimeter, but even if hanging on one strand will test OK.
I stripped, cleaned & greased mine, whilst I was in, no memorable difficulties.
_________________
Regards Tim,

Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
1972 750 Commando
G6HRN
#485