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Jimmyd
Big Brick Rider

Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 61
Location: CT/MA Border

Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2011 9:50 pm Post subject: Plug Wires

Scott_Anderson wrote:

The factory caps do have a ring on the plug end. It's possible that yours came off of the cap.

You know, now that you mention plug wires, I bet my plug wires are the problem.
They ohm out within spec and look in good shape, but they are original.
I had a heck of a time getting two of them off to change the plugs. I actually broke a spring hook pulling so hard. I think I remember a small wire ring coming off from some place.
That all makes sense as the bike runs ok until it starts to warm up. My guess is the plug caps expand making a poor connection. One of the plug heads had a bunch of white corrision/residue inside.

I'm going to order new plug wires tonight.

I'll repost once I get the bike all back together. I am sending the injectors out for service tomorrow morning.
_________________
1994 K 1100 RS

merlin geikie
Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 26 Dec 2008
Posts: 343
Location: Lismore far north coast nsw australia

Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 4:39 am Post subject: Well done Sherlock

Nice work observing and tracking Ernie! Laughing

Quote:

Best regards "down under", and if you do have an AWG "upgrade" or equivalent recommendation please let me know.

Thanks for that and well you don't need no upgrade now Rolling Eyes

It is these hard to find, unusual but more and more usual little glitches and failings that give us so much info into finding and solving these sorts of problems ourselves.

Wonderful you found the problem and the trusty steed is back on track and serving you as they are designed to Wink

All good to you Ernie and Ride on with a sense of deep well earned satisfaction.

Jimmyd
Big Brick Rider

Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 61
Location: CT/MA Border

Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 12:40 am Post subject: Re: Plug Wires

Jimmyd wrote:

Scott_Anderson wrote:

The factory caps do have a ring on the plug end. It's possible that yours came off of the cap.

Ok it's not the plug wires.
I replaced them and get the same thing. I finally pulled the cover for the HES sensor. I see no obvious signs of any issue. What is an effective test for the Hall Effect Senor?

As eveyone knows the hall senor is expensive, it probably is more expensive then everything I have already replaced combined. I just seems a classic symptom as this issue does not really occur until the bike get uot o operting temp.

Plugs are Autolites and have been in about 2,500 miles. They look used but can't be bad yet and I can not imagine the plugs are the issue, though the bike did run better when I first replaced them.

If the bike needs a valve adjustment would the issue show up after the bike reached operating tempature?
_________________
1994 K 1100 RS

DaveVoorhis
Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 223
Location: Derbyshire, UK

Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 4:48 am Post subject: Re: Plug Wires

Jimmyd wrote:

Point a heat gun at it (but don't roast it!) while it's cold and see if the symptoms immediately appear.

Jimmyd wrote:

Plugs are Autolites and have been in about 2,500 miles. They look used but can't be bad yet and I can not imagine the plugs are the issue, though the bike did run better when I first replaced them.

It wouldn't hurt to try others. When I was 14, I bought a basket-case (literally - it was sold as a frame and multiple boxes and coffee cans full of parts) Harley Davidson Rapido and restored it. After assembling and replacing all the worn bits, it wouldn't run without missing badly and loading up. I checked *everything* before (in desperation) replacing the brand-new spark plug. That fixed it. The spark plug was defective.

Jimmyd wrote:

If the bike needs a valve adjustment would the issue show up after the bike reached operating tempature?

Yes, the valve stems expand and marginal clearance will cause one or more valves to leak as they heat up. However, in a few miles this typically results in a burnt valve, at which point the cause is obvious.
_________________
'93 K1100RS
Dave #3

merlin geikie
Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 26 Dec 2008
Posts: 343
Location: Lismore far north coast nsw australia

Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 7:17 am Post subject:

Jimmyd writes;

Quote:

As eveyone knows the hall senor is expensive, it probably is more expensive then everything I have already replaced combined. I just seems a classic symptom as this issue does not really occur until the bike get uot o operting temp.

The actual guts of the HES is not expensive but once mounted on the plate and sold as a BMW (bite my wallet) part it IS expensive.

I lost my bookmark for the site but it is a Honeywell electronic part and fits straight into the timing plate at front crank end.

The timing of the motor is very difficult without timing marks or the dealer's computer on the K12 but maybe simpler on the K11.

If you very carefully mark your HES plates and align carefully afterwards, the re timing of the motor may be easier.

Beemer Boneyard etc may have a parted out HES.

The missing on warm up is a classic HES sign and if the heat gun test also indicates, with the rest of the engine warm, then you may have it.

I have never had the problem and only read about it in lots of K research over the years but there will be folk who really know about it on this site PLUS the archives.

All the best from sunny downunder oz Wink

Inge K.
Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 30 Apr 2011
Posts: 458
Location: Norway

Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 7:50 am Post subject:

merlin geikie wrote:

I lost my bookmark for the site but it is a Honeywell electronic part and fits straight into the timing plate at front crank end.

Honeywell 2AV54.

Inge K.

merlin geikie
Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 26 Dec 2008
Posts: 343
Location: Lismore far north coast nsw australia

Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 7:54 am Post subject:

Inge K writes:

Quote:

Honeywell 2AV54

Cool bananas ... thanks muchly Inge... Wink

All good to you from sunny for now... downunder oz

leecow
Brick Rider

Joined: 17 Apr 2011
Posts: 36
Location: Edmonds, WA

Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:58 am Post subject:

US, UK and Australian suppliers listed at the end of this thread. http://robfrankham.co.uk/bike/replacing_the_hall_effect_sensor.htm _________________ Lee '93 K1100RS

merlin geikie
Flying Brick Rider

Joined: 26 Dec 2008
Posts: 343
Location: Lismore far north coast nsw australia

Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:52 am Post subject:

Lee adds to the knowledge;

Quote:

Australian suppliers listed at the end of this thread. http://robfrankham.co.uk/bike/replacing_the_hall_effect_sensor.htm

TOO easy

Thanks Lee Wink

leecow
Brick Rider

Joined: 17 Apr 2011
Posts: 36
Location: Edmonds, WA

Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2011 7:00 pm Post subject:

Yeah, I contributed!! _________________ Lee '93 K1100RS

Jimmyd
Big Brick Rider

Joined: 13 May 2011
Posts: 61
Location: CT/MA Border

Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 3:39 am Post subject: Re: TPS

Scott_Anderson wrote:

Jimmyd wrote:

Seems correct to me. Does anyone have the time to test a 93-96 K 1100 (RS or LT) TPS connector. If you use a digital volt meter to test between pins 1/4 on the connector what do you see for voltage with the bike on but not started?

Ok, on my '97LT, ignition on, engine off, plug disconnected from tps. Measured 0.00vdc between 1/4.

Connected plug to TPS and measured .387~.388vdc between 1/4 at throttle stop. readings increased when throttle was opened.

Now that I am really comfy doing the TPS measurements/adjustments. What is the range. At throttle closed I measure .378 (roughly what you measure) between 1/4... thats good.

If I advance the throttle the voltage increases but it only takes a little throttle before the reading is beyond the 2 volt setting for that range on the meter.
Ok obviously I'm tired (kinda just answered my own thought)... the voltage can't increase past 12 volts (max of battery).
Ok so I'll change the setting to like 20 volts.
When I check this tomorrow, should I expect to see the voltage between pins # 1/4 at 12 volts with the throttle fully open???

What should be the lowest voltage reading/setting?

I loosened the two little screws on the TPS and played with positioning a little I was able to get a pretty wide range from like .350 volts to 2 volts just by playing with the position a little.
_________________
1994 K 1100 RS

Scott_Anderson
Site Admin

Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 8:55 am Post subject: Re: TPS

Jimmyd wrote:

When I check this tomorrow, should I expect to see the voltage between pins # 1/4 at 12 volts with the throttle fully open???

What should be the lowest voltage reading/setting?

I can't say as I ran the throttle full open to read that level.

As far as the lowest reading, should be in the .387 or so range. I can't say at the moment what the absolute lowest value that the system will work with is.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

Scott_Anderson
Site Admin

Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA

Posted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 8:55 am Post subject: Re: TPS

Jimmyd wrote:

When I check this tomorrow, should I expect to see the voltage between pins # 1/4 at 12 volts with the throttle fully open???

What should be the lowest voltage reading/setting?

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